Bolt On Caster Correction (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Darwood
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[quote author=the shedguy [Aus/CAC] link=board=2;threadid=11257;start=msg102726#msg102726 date=1076450996]
The kit Christo is making is a simple bolt on with a little grinding, no pressing, and offers double what bushes offer, without the wear factor or diff housing cracks the bushes do.
[/quote]
Hey Darren - are those the same scheme that the oz Pat**l guys run - what they call 'caster plates' ?
Christo, why don't you make the outback control arms with the awr joints any more? Did the joints give problems or were they just to pricey too fabricate?
george.
The kit Christo is making is a simple bolt on with a little grinding, no pressing, and offers double what bushes offer, without the wear factor or diff housing cracks the bushes do.
[/quote]
Hey Darren - are those the same scheme that the oz Pat**l guys run - what they call 'caster plates' ?
Christo, why don't you make the outback control arms with the awr joints any more? Did the joints give problems or were they just to pricey too fabricate?
george.
G'
ay George,
I think Christo is making the arms still, but the caster plates [which are available for toyo's not just ni$$ans] but the plates wll be a cheaper option better than bushes for smaller lift.
ay George,I think Christo is making the arms still, but the caster plates [which are available for toyo's not just ni$$ans] but the plates wll be a cheaper option better than bushes for smaller lift.
Instead of bushings. Probably could be used with caster bushings but I would think new arms would be better for that much correction.
semlin
curmudgeon
Darwood, I'm also interested and I am sure others are even if they don't realize it. When I lift I'd much rather bolt on than get involved with the dreaded press.
so just to be clear, if I go with the 2.5" medium lift, these will work better than bushings, and the grinding required can be done with a dremel? Even I can wield a dremel.
so just to be clear, if I go with the 2.5" medium lift, these will work better than bushings, and the grinding required can be done with a dremel? Even I can wield a dremel.
quote Shedguy - "The kit Christo is making is a simple bolt on with a little grinding, no pressing, and offers double what bushes offer, without the wear factor or diff housing cracks the bushes do."
So how bad is this issue with diff housing cracking? I have the med OME lift and the bushings installed. Drives GREAT!!
Was this cracking an issue with earlier years and how the bracket attached to the housing?
I guess I can handle wear on the bushings every 5 years (just replace) but no too thrilled on the cracks in the housing.
Comments on the press in bushings?
R
So how bad is this issue with diff housing cracking? I have the med OME lift and the bushings installed. Drives GREAT!!
Was this cracking an issue with earlier years and how the bracket attached to the housing?
I guess I can handle wear on the bushings every 5 years (just replace) but no too thrilled on the cracks in the housing.
Comments on the press in bushings?
R
IF i'm no mistaken the cracks come from twisting the axle when offroading. The urathane OME bushings don't give as much and stress the brackets to a point of cracking.
[quote author=semlin link=board=2;threadid=11257;start=msg102834#msg102834 date=1076459502]
Darwood, I'm also interested and I am sure others are even if they don't realize it. When I lift I'd much rather bolt on than get involved with the dreaded press.
so just to be clear, if I go with the 2.5" medium lift, these will work better than bushings, and the grinding required can be done with a dremel? Even I can wield a dremel.
[/quote]
I feel the exact same way - I've been waiting for the official release as 'the press' scares the s***e out of me and seems like a real PITA. I can run a spanner and a dremel, but my press is out of order. Maybe I'll do it with Semlin - let's seeeee...4 day drive to Vancouver and back, should be fine!
Christo - if you build it they will come (even for my planned 2.5" lift) - closer to stock caster the better - I really don't want to piss off my wife more than I have to
Cheers, Hugh
Darwood, I'm also interested and I am sure others are even if they don't realize it. When I lift I'd much rather bolt on than get involved with the dreaded press.
so just to be clear, if I go with the 2.5" medium lift, these will work better than bushings, and the grinding required can be done with a dremel? Even I can wield a dremel.
[/quote]
I feel the exact same way - I've been waiting for the official release as 'the press' scares the s***e out of me and seems like a real PITA. I can run a spanner and a dremel, but my press is out of order
. Maybe I'll do it with Semlin - let's seeeee...4 day drive to Vancouver and back, should be fine!Christo - if you build it they will come (even for my planned 2.5" lift) - closer to stock caster the better - I really don't want to piss off my wife more than I have to
Cheers, Hugh
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
Not sure a dremmel is realy going to cut it, but a grinder will. The plans are still to make it (we are on the third try) just a ton of other things in line as well. It will be more correction than the bushings and not really intented for 2.5" lifts More for the 3.5/4.5 range.
So, for those of us with only 2.5" of lift who are interested in the bolt on correction...what do the OZ plates run?
Any of our down under friends know off hand? Can we get our hands on 'em with a group order?
Christo, if there's enough interest....how 'bout a run of 2.5" correction plates?
-H-
Any of our down under friends know off hand? Can we get our hands on 'em with a group order?
Christo, if there's enough interest....how 'bout a run of 2.5" correction plates?
-H-
Hey semlin
I know a guy with a grinder who will help for Beer.
and Riley the cracks will develop on the forward mount tabs on the axle housing. I have been thinking of how to gusset that area but havent had any brilliant revalations yet. I guess the other option would be to heim the rear bolt. any thoughts to that approach?
Dave
I know a guy with a grinder who will help for Beer.
and Riley the cracks will develop on the forward mount tabs on the axle housing. I have been thinking of how to gusset that area but havent had any brilliant revalations yet. I guess the other option would be to heim the rear bolt. any thoughts to that approach?
Dave
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
I don't believe you can do a bolt on plate for only 2.5" of lift. It is a matter of geometry. The positions of the new holes does not allow for enough material between original hole and new hole. You would have to hack of so much of the original bracket that it does not make sense to do it. If you are worried about the cracks that the Oz brothers report, run the bushings and gusset the housing brackets.
I also do not see the need for it. Yes, the Oz brothers report that they have seen cracking of the plates etc. In the 100's of trucks we see in the shop and service we have not seen it once. I have only seen a failure of that sort once and the was on the Hockers truck. Not sure if it was even related to the bushings.
I also do not see the need for it. Yes, the Oz brothers report that they have seen cracking of the plates etc. In the 100's of trucks we see in the shop and service we have not seen it once. I have only seen a failure of that sort once and the was on the Hockers truck. Not sure if it was even related to the bushings.
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
[quote author=george_tlc link=board=2;threadid=11257;start=msg102805#msg102805 date=1076457480]
Christo, why don't you make the outback control arms with the awr joints any more? Did the joints give problems or were they just to pricey too fabricate?
[/quote]
No problems with the joints. It was just too expensive to fabricate. The machining costs were extreme due to the close tolerances. In all the benifits were there, but the customers didn't like the price. We have a tough enough time getting the existing ones made. Not many companies with benders that can bend 3/8" wall 2" chromoly tube.
Christo, why don't you make the outback control arms with the awr joints any more? Did the joints give problems or were they just to pricey too fabricate?
[/quote]
No problems with the joints. It was just too expensive to fabricate. The machining costs were extreme due to the close tolerances. In all the benifits were there, but the customers didn't like the price. We have a tough enough time getting the existing ones made. Not many companies with benders that can bend 3/8" wall 2" chromoly tube.
[quote author=sleeoffroad link=board=2;threadid=11257;start=msg103218#msg103218 date=1076517823]
I also do not see the need for it. Yes, the Oz brothers report that they have seen cracking of the plates etc. In the 100's of trucks we see in the shop and service we have not seen it once. I have only seen a failure of that sort once and the was on the Hockers truck. Not sure if it was even related to the bushings.
[/quote]
Good that makes me feel better about having the bushings in. That way I can keep the worries down to only the head gasket,rad and PHH.
Also those who are concerned about installing the bushings, it's not that bad. Do the OME install yourself and once it's done, take it to a good off-road shop and have them do the bushings. Just make sure you understand exactly what needs to be done and find a shop that can work with you. The guys I had do the bushings didn't like to read anything and I had to be foreman on the job. It worked out fine.
They are a bitch to press out though. Whipping up some jigs is a good idea.
The OME instructions are terrible but read them over and consult Slee's tech page and you'll nail it.
Considering the cost of the OME setup, the $150 for shop time is no big deal to deal with the bushings.
R
I also do not see the need for it. Yes, the Oz brothers report that they have seen cracking of the plates etc. In the 100's of trucks we see in the shop and service we have not seen it once. I have only seen a failure of that sort once and the was on the Hockers truck. Not sure if it was even related to the bushings.
[/quote]
Good that makes me feel better about having the bushings in. That way I can keep the worries down to only the head gasket,rad and PHH.
Also those who are concerned about installing the bushings, it's not that bad. Do the OME install yourself and once it's done, take it to a good off-road shop and have them do the bushings. Just make sure you understand exactly what needs to be done and find a shop that can work with you. The guys I had do the bushings didn't like to read anything and I had to be foreman on the job. It worked out fine.
They are a bitch to press out though. Whipping up some jigs is a good idea.
The OME instructions are terrible but read them over and consult Slee's tech page and you'll nail it.
Considering the cost of the OME setup, the $150 for shop time is no big deal to deal with the bushings.
R
- Thread starter
- #36
I've been able to cut 1/8 inch steel with a dremil tool with the fiberglass reinforced wheels. Took a while but it worked. I used it to "modify" the mounting brackets on my TJM bumper on my Tacoma.
[quote author=sleeoffroad link=board=2;threadid=11257;start=msg103152#msg103152 date=1076510027]
More for the 3.5/4.5 range.
[/quote]
OUTSTANDING Christo
All I'll need now is a set of springs to match that will support the ARB/winch and slider weight at that height without spacers.
More for the 3.5/4.5 range.
[/quote]
OUTSTANDING Christo
All I'll need now is a set of springs to match that will support the ARB/winch and slider weight at that height without spacers.
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Oh yeah- I was down at the almighty Sleeoffroad on Friday, and managed to see & touch one of these caster plates. Also saw a couple pallets' full of super burly-looking control arms, several bumpers, sliders.. and the Shortbus was running around on a set of 31's or something, made me laugh. promised I'd tell that they do in fact exist.
