Body Panels, Tips, Suggestions, Preservation

[Chocolyle]

I posted this on the TLCA FB page as well. A little more detail here.

I am looking for some suggestions or sellers-in the US to start buying body panels for my 87 FJ60. New or used. Used but need a little work. Recommendations.

Frame is fully restored, interior is great but the body is getting bad. I have found new ones online, not sure of the quality and they are a few $$$. Used seem to go quick or on the west coast. I am in CT. I have some rust through on the doors, front quarters, rockers are pretty much gone. Lower rear tail is bubbling bad too. Gutters are fine, at least no signs.

Also, some solid recommendations to cut and preserve what is good till the repairs can be done. I am NOT a metal/body guy. I do have the tools, well no welder, and can figure stuff out.

Last, if you know someone that does body work you can recommend that would be great too. It would be a little at a time as can be done. Maybe even teach some, never have done it and it would be great to learn the process.

Thanks for any and all ideas and help.

 

[the gimpey one]

Rear quarters are available. Door wise you will probably need to source a set from a donor truck.

 

[NookShneer]

@arcteryx is based in Texas and comes up with dry rust free body parts.

For new wheel arches and rear quarters trail Tailor is the way to go.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Wheel arch and lower rear quarter repair sections are on sale now.

J

 

[88Retired62]

I feel for you. Lived in Hartford area during the late 70’s. Brutal winters (snow/salt-snow/salt and on and on) . Not the healthiest of land cruiser environments. Your on the right track...fix’em fast, preserve them well, garage in the winter and...pray.

 

[SteveH]

Also, some solid recommendations to cut and preserve what is good till the repairs can be done.

There's no point in cutting until you're ready to do the bodywork and have the replacement pieces in hand - so you know where to cut. What's your time frame for repair or resto?

I would grease the heck out of everything (the inside the doors and the back side of every enclosed space) and not drive it in the winter. Use aerosol Lithium grease from the auto parts store, or a grease-style rustproofing (not any tar-based products). Preserve what you have until you're ready to fully replace the metal, paint, rustproof, and then not-drive-it-in-the-winter.

 

[Willard]

Also, some solid recommendations to cut and preserve what is good till the repairs can be done.

There's no point in cutting until you're ready to do the bodywork and have the replacement pieces in hand - so you know where to cut. What's your time frame for repair or resto?

I would grease the heck out of everything (the inside the doors and the back side of every enclosed space) and not drive it in the winter. Use aerosol Lithium grease from the auto parts store, or a grease-style rustproofing (not any tar-based products). Preserve what you have until you're ready to fully replace the metal, paint, rustproof, and then not-drive-it-in-the-winter.

Just remember what you did as this stuff will be a problem when welding.

Wheel arch and lower rear quarter repair sections are on sale now.

J

I have these and used the drivers side so far. They are great and worked as expected. My only comment is I wish the lower quarters were longer.
Sorry Jason I have not given you feedback on that.

The indent for the bumper ends was not long enough for me, however a hammer, some time and extra metal and it all worked out well.
Overall I had zero issues with them and in the end it looked great when done.


Do not worry about your welding skills unless you are going for show quality. I welded mine (stitch weld) and then ground down my horrible welds. From there I used a Metal to Metal body filler to fill in the weld portion and smooth it our more. After that a final Skim coat.

I used a simple 135 Mig from Eastwood and it worked great. I did use the Argon/CO2 Gas with it as you can run finer wire for the panels and the welds are cleaner than what flux core gives. It was not an expensive welder and for body work it gets the job done. If i was planing to make a bumper then I would get something bigger, but there are people out there who will build a better bumper than me (@reevesci as an example)

Body work really is just taking your time and not rushing. My dog leg, quarters and a hole in my door took me about 25 hours to complete where I was happy with the results. I was less time on the floor as I really did not care about how that looked and mainly cut our the old metal prepped and welded a patch. I did not grind down very much and just painted it with POR15. Then liner and carpet.

Front Fenders and hatches are bolt on and they pop up here and there. Rockers you could ask someone parting theirs out to cut it for you (I did that for the drivers floor).

Good luck.

 

[gregnash]

With that much rust I would be worried about what the frame looks like. But @Willard gives some great advice and @reevesci knows his stuff and sells great products.

 

[Chocolyle]

PO replaced/restored the frame. It is a 62 frame underneath. Interior is in great shape, no cracks on the dash. Just needs the body work.

Are used panels a good option or a waste of time?

 

[franklin40]

newer steel tends to be better quality (may be more of an issue with the 40 series era steel). less rust on new and there are some pretty good matching pannels out there for not a lot of money. i went new. saved the cost of extra body work

 

[bentonrover]

Used can be a hit or miss. I pulled my dents , pop riveted some sheetmetal and fiberglassed it. People frown but who cares Im not selling it. I live in Hamden CT. Maybe Ill see you around

 

[Chocolyle]

Bentonrover, I am in Manchester. I get that. Long term I would like it to look great, just don't want to do it again in 10 years if done wrong. Not saying what you did was wrong. I would love to know how to do body work, just don't think I have the patience.

A buddy of mine were talking about how far I want to go with a restoration and if I would still take it in the woods. Even if was done perfect, it is made to go off road. I want to preserve it and enjoy it. No trailer queen here.

 

[bentonrover]

I dig it brother. I can go only as deep as my pockets allow lol. Good luck with the project