Body lift and bumpers

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Sep 4, 2008
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So I did a 2" body lift on my 87 FJ60 to keep from having to cut my fenders from the tires rubbing. I have searched long and hard through the forums and have not really seen anyone mention anything about what I am trying to figure out. I am wondering if there is a way to move the bumpers up so they don't hang 2 inches below the body now. In my opinion the bumper/body space is what makes a body lift look gay. Does somebody make aftermarket bumpers that are adjustable in height? I am talking about both the front and rear here so if anyone knows anything help me out. Thanks!
 
The new ARB front bumper I have has 3 sets of holes to raise the bumper up for a 1" or 2" body lift. I have not heard about anybody making any kits to offset the bumpers. The rear bumper would be harder to do since mine now slides over the rear frame. Some people have cut their rear frames to install after market bumpers so that would help out if you want to offset the bumper up too.
 
So, the stock bumpers on the 60 attach to the frame. If you wanted to move the bumpers up 2" to match what you've got for the body lift, you'd probably have to modify the frame somewhat to attach the bumper up there. Otherwise the bumper would be 2" higher and the frame is going to be sticking out from the bottom...

You may have to buy an aftermarket bumper...but I'm thinking that if you had the money to do that, you probably should have just done a 2" suspension lift instead of a body lift.
 
I say any measure of offroading beyond fire roads, and you'll be looking at beefier bumpers eventually. That would make this moot, as you could build/have built custom, or at least modify mass-produced aftermaket stuff to fit better. I know the front valance will like the extra room if you go bumper plus winch up front.
If you are stuck on keeping the stock bumpers, then offset brackets could be fabbed up, but they would do nothing to fix the bottom lip of the bumper wanting to hit the bottom of the frame rails. For that, notching the bumper, or pushing them out further to cover only the new brackets, away from the frame rails completely would work. That would, however, look nearly as bad as the gap along the top does now, IMHO.
 
So, the stock bumpers on the 60 attach to the frame. If you wanted to move the bumpers up 2" to match what you've got for the body lift, you'd probably have to modify the frame somewhat to attach the bumper up there. Otherwise the bumper would be 2" higher and the frame is going to be sticking out from the bottom...

You may have to buy an aftermarket bumper...but I'm thinking that if you had the money to do that, you probably should have just done a 2" suspension lift instead of a body lift.

the 2" body lift is on top of a suspension lift i already did, but i am thinking aftermarket bumpers eventually yes
 
If aftermarket is an eventual thing, but a bit of time away still, then how about appropriate dimension of thick black plastic as a gap filler? Roundy-round racer dudes use that crap all over their cars, and it would hold up until you gather up the scratch for new modded bumpers.
 
I have a 2" BL and have addressed this problem. On my front bumper I welded a home made bracket to the frame and mounted the bumper to that. The bracket is no more than a flat piece of steel with holes for mounting the bumper where I wanted it. I also cut the exposed end of the frame off and boxed it in.

On the rear bumper I just live with the space. I just installed a kaymar, and the swing out arm hides the space when closed.
 
unfortunately the best way is to build with the lift in mind. I have drawing and jigs to build in the 4plus front and rear designs at Man-a-fre to accomodate a 1" body lift. raising the front exposes the half the frame rail, looking from the front. Lifting it two inches would expose over three fourthes.
At the rear I widened the bumper channel and corresponding mounts one inch up to fill the gap.
 
unfortunately the best way is to build with the lift in mind. I have drawing and jigs to build in the 4plus front and rear designs at Man-a-fre to accomodate a 1" body lift. raising the front exposes the half the frame rail, looking from the front. Lifting it two inches would expose over three fourthes.
At the rear I widened the bumper channel and corresponding mounts one inch up to fill the gap.

so what you're saying is a new bumper is easier than using the stock bumper and just lifting it? I
 
I have a 2" BL and have addressed this problem. On my front bumper I welded a home made bracket to the frame and mounted the bumper to that. The bracket is no more than a flat piece of steel with holes for mounting the bumper where I wanted it. I also cut the exposed end of the frame off and boxed it in.

On the rear bumper I just live with the space. I just installed a kaymar, and the swing out arm hides the space when closed.

so when you cut it off did you remove anything that is essential for mounting an aftermarket bumper? I'm just wondering if I move the front bumper up and cut that exposed piece off, would I be able to go back and put an ARB on there once i figure out which one I want and not have to worry about any complications with mounting or strength or anything like that.
 
The new ARB front bumper I have has 3 sets of holes to raise the bumper up for a 1" or 2" body lift. I have not heard about anybody making any kits to offset the bumpers. The rear bumper would be harder to do since mine now slides over the rear frame. Some people have cut their rear frames to install after market bumpers so that would help out if you want to offset the bumper up too.

do you know if they have that on a rear bumper as well?
 
so when you cut it off did you remove anything that is essential for mounting an aftermarket bumper? I'm just wondering if I move the front bumper up and cut that exposed piece off, would I be able to go back and put an ARB on there once i figure out which one I want and not have to worry about any complications with mounting or strength or anything like that.

I cut my frame in a way that would make it unreasonably difficult to go back to stock.
 
It is in the case of the 4+. The mounting points slide into the frame channel and are 1/2" plate. To offset the bumper would mean cutting the mounts and welding in a riser plate of sorts. You'd need to cut the winch mount out and reposition it. It's welded front and back (to an added crossmember)
I think most winch mount designers don't factor in cut and weld modifications.
With a winch mount bumper, the integrity of the winch mount should supercede
any cosmetic factors. The bumper should be built around the winch, not vise-versa

so what you're saying is a new bumper is easier than using the stock bumper and just lifting it? I
 

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