Any reason why I shouldnt use body filler to fill in the the holes when I pull the factory rack off? Fixing other dents and dings so figured why not. Lots less work than dropping the headliner to weld them shut.
Body Filler to Seal Roof Rack Holes? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter bwakeling
- Start date
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I used steel stick and formed a small button head over each hole.
Exactly what I did on a few of the holes and on the rear spoiler holes. My rack was ripped off from too large of a load so I decided to take off the remaining roof rack parts.
I started by removing the legs/bases and the black strips in the middle of the roof. Grounded everything down then primered. At first I used some plugs from an auto body shop to seal the holes along wth clear silicone. This method was okay but after using the moon roof once, I realized the plugs were too long and were dislodged from the moon roof hitting them. Plus they are black and don't sit flush with the roof. I would use aluminum tape next time instead.
With those two plugs that were dislodged, I ended up using the same method I had done for the spoiler which was using aluminum tape and bondo. I haven't had time to put a top coat on yet.
Some pics
I started by removing the legs/bases and the black strips in the middle of the roof. Grounded everything down then primered. At first I used some plugs from an auto body shop to seal the holes along wth clear silicone. This method was okay but after using the moon roof once, I realized the plugs were too long and were dislodged from the moon roof hitting them. Plus they are black and don't sit flush with the roof. I would use aluminum tape next time instead.
With those two plugs that were dislodged, I ended up using the same method I had done for the spoiler which was using aluminum tape and bondo. I haven't had time to put a top coat on yet.
Some pics
The "correct" way to do it is weld them up.
Second best would be to cap them with stainless screws and finish washers. Other fillers will eventually fail.
Second best would be to cap them with stainless screws and finish washers. Other fillers will eventually fail.
Body filler tends to be porous and can wick moisture. You could use it, but you must seal it with some sort of paint. The exception would be the waterproof kind often referred to as "kitty hair". It is usually green, fiberglass reinforced material that is very tough to work with when fully hardened. If you use it, shape it when it is still rubbery. It will load up your sandpaper but it's worth it. Another good product is 3m "super fast urethane". It is wicked stuff but will flex and seal long term. You can finish it smooth when it is nearly cured by wiping it with a towel soaked with laquer thinner. Your paint can handle it without lifting and it will smooth and shape as you wipe it off and it won't stick to everything that way. I'm sure other things work but these came to mind.
SUMMIT CRUISERS
SILVER Star
My recommendation would be to dent the holes downward with a rounded punch. If you don't dent the holes downward, the patch will probably fail and will look like raised dimples on your roof. Apply POR15 to the bare edges to stop any future rust, fill holes with steel stick, apply bondo to to the dent to finish, sand, prime and paint. Works great!
Here's a thread about it:
Roof Rack Rust Hole!! Body Shop or Bondo Patch?
and another:
Removing factory roof rack
and paint on post #2:
BUILD THREAD FOR THE "German Shepherd"
Here's a thread about it:
Roof Rack Rust Hole!! Body Shop or Bondo Patch?
and another:
Removing factory roof rack
and paint on post #2:
BUILD THREAD FOR THE "German Shepherd"
Last edited:
Another great choice is 3m panel bond. You would need the applicator gun tho.
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
X2 on welding them. I used steelstik and it failed. I will be welding mine shut this fall. In the meantime I plugged them with plastic plugs gooped up with a crap ton of RTV. I just checked them this past weekend and they are holding up. They look like sh!t but are still watertight.
I tried the screws but a couple of my nutzerts were loose so they wouldn't hold.
When I did mine I had to replace 1/3 of the nutserts as they were failing. The new ones have held up well since they have been fully sealed and painted around.
The only potential problem with the capping method is these vehicles are aging and the roof panels have had a longer exposure to the elements, leading to more extensive damage to the roof panel. In these cases cutting patches is the only correct way to fix the problem.
When I patched up my buddy's roof, he took the whole truck to a upholstery shop and they removed the headliner (since it was sagging and need to be re-upholster). I end up using the copper spoon/spatula from Harbor Freight and welded up the holds and grind it down afterwards.
If there is a molecule of rust on any area you patch with any compound, it will rust. If I end up buying your vehicle in 3 years I will be cursing you. Weld it up after All the rust is cut out. Bondo isn't structural it's lipstick on a pig. Sorry to be so hostile but I just spent 3 weeks on the driveway cutting out rust,Bondo,gravel guard,tar,silicone etc. that stuff is short term. Pull h liner look for rusty patina. Clean it up! Be thorough or redo it in 3 years and it will be a mess. Like in the pics. The damage was from a hammer blow beside a rust bubble. The only places real rusty were where the po had done the tar n silicone stuff after the shop paint job. In my climate roof rot p common.
- Thread starter
- #13
Ok thanks. I will just weld it up. Going to coat it with por15 then top coat with 2k urethane dark grey.
Used a 60 grit flapper wheel from Harbor Freight. Came out really nice. Like everyone mentioned, best method is to weld it up, primer it, and then paint it.
DAP butt-crack seal, available at most plumbing stores, will also work.
I filled mine up with silicone years ago. No leaks.
This is what you were asking about: @OverlandDad
Yep. So many options!
