Blueprint Engines or other Crate Motor Supplier? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

It has a built in wideband too which is normally $200.

A plug and play standalone that can do drive by wire, auto transmission control, a touchscreen controller and includes a wideband for less then $1500 is a steal.

Ive installed about a half dozen of them theyre awesome
Is the terminator setup better than the Edelbrock ProFlo? Ive liked that intake manifold that puts the throttle body and air cleaner up top for the carb look ever since I saw one at a show. My brother was looking at options for his Mustang.

Well, seems like the cost to rebuild my carbureted Chevy 400 small block would be about $5800 if the shop does not run into any weird issues. 90 day warranty. I am thinking of changing plans and going with a BluePrint Engines 350 small block Sniper EFI crate motor ($7000). Anyone have other crate motor supplier recommendations:

These are the specs of the 350 crate motor I am considering:


My buddy got an engine from them and talking to their customer service was helpful. They made sure to understand his needs. I wouldnt want a high compression engine, rather over built and reliable.

They had a roller cam engine with the cast iron vortec heads which was a pretty good deal IMO. It was not fully dressed but that lets you pick your own bolt ons.

If you buy from GM make sure the warranty covers you in non-GM vehicles. Ive heard different things in this regard.
 
Last edited:
Is the terminator setup better than the Edelbrock ProFlo? Ive like that intake manifold that puts the throttle body and air cleaner up top for the carb look ever since I saw one at a show. My brother was looking at options for his Mustang.



My buddy got an engine from them and talking to their customer service was helpful. They made sure to understand his needs. I wouldnt want a high compression engine, rather over built and reliable.

They had a roller cam engine with the cast iron vortec heads which was a pretty good deal IMO. It was not fully dressed but that lets you pick your own bolt ons.

If you buy from GM make sure the warranty covers you in non-GM vehicles. Ive heard different things in this regard.
Good info, thank you
 
I did find this adapter to go from my TH400 trans to the L96 Gen IV engine. So that is not an issue. I will update here as I find out more info

 
I did find this adapter to go from my TH400 trans to the L96 Gen IV engine. So that is not an issue. I will update here as I find out more info


That works, or get that snout adapter for $30 on amazon and drill three holes in the LS flexplate. Ive done that on a few of my cars, it’s easy
 
If you like your small block, just buy one that someone else is pulling out for an LS swap. Every Camaro/Chevelle/C10 out there with a small block is getting an LS swap these days and they’re all looking to unload the old engine.
 
All the info is out there already. But my short answer is.
If you’re willing to spend $5-7k, get yourself a nice COMPLETE LY6 or L96 (iron block 6.0) or L92 (aluminum Block 6.2) in the $2500-3k range, and spend then $1400 or so on a Terminator X Max.
And $250 GM muscle car oil pan kit.

The major “turnkey” suppliers are not worth the extra cost for what you get in my opinion.
Is this the oil pan you are referring to? Does the factory pan interfere with something?

Thanks!

 
Is this the oil pan you are referring to? Does the factory pan interfere with something?

Thanks!


Yes. They help a lot with front driveshaft clearance at lower ride heights. Pretty much no reason not to use one. The pickup tube o-ring is a really good PM item to do as well.
 
Yes. They help a lot with front driveshaft clearance at lower ride heights. Pretty much no reason not to use one. The pickup tube o-ring is a really good PM item to do as well.
Thank you
 
Yes. They help a lot with front driveshaft clearance at lower ride heights. Pretty much no reason not to use one. The pickup tube o-ring is a really good PM item to do as well.
Do you think with the 4" lift and probably another 1.5" shackle lift the need to swap out the pan could be avoided (saving $250)? Also, I was talking with the tech dept at Holley today and they were asking if I am going with a drive by wire or cable throttle. I asked them about the difference and they said the standard cable throttle is much more simple and much less expensive ($1124 vs $1462) also no GM pedal needed as well as some other specific items. Is there some advantage to the drive by wire or the standard cable operated throttle?

They recommended the following:

Thanks
 
Who's rig is this, anyone know. Not sure what MUD thread I picked this photo up from but I got it on Nov 29th. Hoping someone recognizes this. Looks very similar to what i am considering.

7E87B931-B57D-4422-B54F-FB17982A74D7.jpeg
 
Who's rig is this, anyone know. Not sure what MUD thread I picked this photo up from but I got it on Nov 29th. Hoping someone recognizes this. Looks very similar to what i am considering.

View attachment 2868016
Darned if I can help you. I just searched all the Vortec build threads I have bookmarked and it’s not in any of them.
But I saved the same picture on November 29th!

AD87B94D-3C58-4617-9928-4A2E44BFB6E4.png
 

Thanks, Google history search!
 

Thanks, Google history search!
Thanks for spending the time!
 
I wonder how the LV3 would do - plenty of power in a smaller package. Basically an LT with the front two cylinders knocked off:

285 hp (213 kW) at 5300 rpm and 305 lb⋅ft (414 N⋅m) at 3900 rpm on regular unleaded gasoline and 297 hp (221 kW) at 5300 rpm and 330 lb⋅ft (447 N⋅m) at 3900 rpm on E85
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom