BLUE KZJ78, Really Dark Blue (1 Viewer)

[Shyrock]

Picked this up in September and have been slowly taking care of maintenance before running it somewhat hard. I'll have many future requests for info and advice in the future. Have seen the amazing response that all get here. Work done so far:
Replaced leaking radiator; replaced hoses.
Rust treatment and paint. Trying Masterseal products.
Replaced front springs and shocks, rear springs and shocks, and steering damper - Dobinsons.
Replaced rear sway bar chassis bushings and end links.
Had a shimmy in the steering wheel at 40-50 km/hour range, so:
Replaced bushings in front lateral rod.
Rebuilt front knuckles.
Replaced wheel bearings.
Converted electric locking hubs to manual hubs.

Made it to the beach yesterday for a mini shake down. Photos:

 

[Gun Runner 5]

Registry - U.S. 70's Registration.

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Shyrock]

Registry - U.S. 70's Registration.

forum.ih8mud.com

I somehow managed to do that back in November.

 

[Gun Runner 5]

I somehow managed to do that back in November.

Thanks

 

[Shyrock]

This had an aftermarket steering wheel installed when we got it. Had a clicking noise start out of nowhere when turning the wheel. Took the trim pieces off and found that this appeared to be bent. Straightened it a bit to eliminate the clicking.
Does anyone know the actual purpose of this part?

And I'm still trying to figure what to do to get a horn working with the aftermarket steering wheel.

 

[coldtaco]

that's the power transfer thing for the horn. it's mating piece is called a slip ring, it allows the transfer of electricity between a fixed electric connection and a rotating electric connection (like a steering wheel)

 

[Shyrock]

that's the power transfer thing for the horn. it's mating piece is called a slip ring, it allows the transfer of electricity between a fixed electric connection and a rotating electric connection (like a steering wheel)

So it would need to fit into a groove of some sort on the back of the steering wheel?

 

[coldtaco]

If you turn your steering wheel over there should be a brass ring, that spring post should ride on that ring

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

So it would need to fit into a groove of some sort on the back of the steering wheel?

Aftermarket steering wheels were trending in Japan, as many of these imports seem to have them. If it were me, I'd scrap the aftermarket steering wheel and source an OEM landcruiser one. Then your horn will work properly again.

Maybe talk to this seller to see if he has anymore? SOLD - 70 Series Steering Wheels

Here is what the OEM slip ring looks like (well this is another Toyota, but should be very similar):

 

[Shyrock]

We received caster correction bushings with the Dobinsons suspension kit installed (red arrow).
Plan to replace other bushings when the arms are removed. The Partsouq diagram has me puzzled though. Is the bushing at the blue arrow the same part number as the one at the green arrow?
Partsouq has a link to the green arrow number, Toyota 4806160020. And the description leads you to believe it is for the rear position.
But no link to the blue arrow number 48702A. Anyone know this front bushing part number?

View attachment 2536239

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

We received caster correction bushings with the Dobinsons suspension kit installed (red arrow).
Plan to replace other bushings when the arms are removed. The Partsouq diagram has me puzzled though. Is the bushing at the blue arrow the same part number as the one at the green arrow?
Partsouq has a link to the green arrow number, Toyota 4806160020. And the description leads you to believe it is for the rear position.
But no link to the blue arrow number 48702A. Anyone know this front bushing part number?

View attachment 2536239
View attachment 2536242
View attachment 2536243

View attachment 2536236

The red and blue arrow are the same part number, but the green arrow is different. When you install caster correction bushings, they go where the red and blue arrow are.

Take a look at the Megazip EPC drawings too - they may be a little clearer.

 

[Shyrock]

Turbo timer?
This unit is wired into the ignition circuitry at the steering column. I haven't been able to trace down circuitry yet, and I can't find a wiring diagram for this unit. Is anyone familiar with this?
Currently, when I turn the key back to shut down, the engine keeps running. It only stops when turning fully off, depressing the key release button.
If I unplug this unit, the engine will not start.
I'm guessing it's a turbo timer and maybe the timer function has failed?
Any suggestions?

 

[Zjohnsonua]

Yes, it's a turbo timer. Seems to be a pretty cheap one:

ULTRA Turbo Timer Harness with Adapter - EP82 Kouki - RHDJapan

ULTRA Turbo Timer Harness with Adapter - EP82 Kouki. Buy direct with global shipping to your door from Osaka, Japan. We speak English and all email queries are responded to promptly!

www.rhdjapan.com

Can't just unplug it. You'll need to re-make the harness connections that this timer is meant to interrupt.

 

[Shyrock]

Yes, it's a turbo timer. Seems to be a pretty cheap one:

ULTRA Turbo Timer Harness with Adapter - EP82 Kouki - RHDJapan

ULTRA Turbo Timer Harness with Adapter - EP82 Kouki. Buy direct with global shipping to your door from Osaka, Japan. We speak English and all email queries are responded to promptly!

www.rhdjapan.com

Can't just unplug it. You'll need to re-make the harness connections that this timer is meant to interrupt.

I freed up a nest of wires near the steering column and found that the timer was connected via an adapter that was plugged in between factory connectors. Removed that adapter, reconnected the factory connectors, and all functions normally now. No timer, but that's OK.

 

[bighodad808]

Picked this up in September and have been slowly taking care of maintenance before running it somewhat hard. I'll have many future requests for info and advice in the future. Have seen the amazing response that all get here. Work done so far:
Replaced leaking radiator; replaced hoses.
Rust treatment and paint. Trying Masterseal products.
Replaced front springs and shocks, rear springs and shocks, and steering damper - Dobinsons.
Replaced rear sway bar chassis bushings and end links.
Had a shimmy in the steering wheel at 40-50 km/hour range, so:
Replaced bushings in front lateral rod.
Rebuilt front knuckles.
Replaced wheel bearings.
Converted electric locking hubs to manual hubs.

Made it to the beach yesterday for a mini shake down. Photos:
View attachment 2529783 View attachment 2529785

View attachment 2529786

View attachment 2529787

 

[bighodad808]

Picked this up in September and have been slowly taking care of maintenance before running it somewhat hard. I'll have many future requests for info and advice in the future. Have seen the amazing response that all get here. Work done so far:
Replaced leaking radiator; replaced hoses.
Rust treatment and paint. Trying Masterseal products.
Replaced front springs and shocks, rear springs and shocks, and steering damper - Dobinsons.
Replaced rear sway bar chassis bushings and end links.
Had a shimmy in the steering wheel at 40-50 km/hour range, so:
Replaced bushings in front lateral rod.
Rebuilt front knuckles.
Replaced wheel bearings.
Converted electric locking hubs to manual hubs.

Made it to the beach yesterday for a mini shake down. Photos:
View attachment 2529783 View attachment 2529785

View attachment 2529786

View attachment 2529787Hi. Trying to source a new radiator for mine. What did you use and how is it working out for you?

 

[Shyrock]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/any-experience-with-the-website-fitinpart-sg-as-a-parts-supplier.1265770/#post-14135881

1993 Prado with 1KZ-TE engine.
Got the clutch and associated parts replaced - but that did not fix the failure.
Local mechanic I have working on it now thinks a transmission failure of some sort may have stressed the clutch to failure.
When put in gear there was initially a few feet of movement, and then noise started. Kind of a gravely odd sound.
Local transmission rebuilder says is sounds kind of like the transmission is trying to go into 2 gears simultaneously.
Before tear down and search for parts, are there replacement transmissions available? Reasonably?
Suggestions appreciated

 

[AirheadNut]

Check on your firewall data tag; if you have an R150f that is the same basic transmission as 1995 and earlier 4Runners, Pickups and T100's with the 3.0 V6. The input shaft may be different in your application, and the transfer adapter, transfer case and bell housing will definitely be different, but the transmission itself should be a direct swap.

Have you drained the transmission fluid to check for debris? Would be worth checking the transfer case as well. I don't see any way it could engage two gears at once, there are ball bearings that lock the shift rods into place and prevent more than one from moving at a time. Also, if two gears were engaged there would be no vehicle movement at all; the transmission would be totally bound up. Sounds to me like there may be missing gear teeth, broken synchros or something similar that would leave chunks of metal floating around getting caught up in the gears. Try unbolting the driveshafts and spinning the transmission by hand to see if it feels crunchy.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

I think the manual trans 2LTE prado and surfs had a two piece flywheel that is known to fail. Does the 1KZTE still use a two piece flywheel? Maybe it's broken?

 

[Shyrock]

Check on your firewall data tag; if you have an R150f that is the same basic transmission as 1995 and earlier 4Runners, Pickups and T100's with the 3.0 V6. The input shaft may be different in your application, and the transfer adapter, transfer case and bell housing will definitely be different, but the transmission itself should be a direct swap.

Have you drained the transmission fluid to check for debris? Would be worth checking the transfer case as well. I don't see any way it could engage two gears at once, there are ball bearings that lock the shift rods into place and prevent more than one from moving at a time. Also, if two gears were engaged there would be no vehicle movement at all; the transmission would be totally bound up. Sounds to me like there may be missing gear teeth, broken synchros or something similar that would leave chunks of metal floating around getting caught up in the gears. Try unbolting the driveshafts and spinning the transmission by hand to see if it feels crunchy.

Haven't checked fluid yet, but will.