Blue fan clutch mod...Thread has gone to hell, read at your own risk (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter landtank
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- Thread starter
- #342
look back in this thread and you'll see a picture of where I filled mine to. The hobby store fluid will do 2+ clutches.
- Thread starter
- #344
the first page of this thread has the fill instructions on it. I've filled 7 or 8 clutches that way now. The more oil the better, to a point.
Right, but I would think that extra heat load is extra heat load; what I'm hearing here is that your temps are stable in the Summer but much more variable in the Winter. If I read that right, it seems counter-intuitive and contrary to evidence and experience. I'm just wondering whether the timing should set at say 100 or 105 or whatever if you got a reverse rhythm with temp control. IOW, is it the timing adjustment, the viscosity adjustment or both? Thanks.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
turbo-I notice the same thing on my FJ60, and I think I know why.
In the winter, the cooler outer air means the fan clutch is less likely to be on, because the air flowing past the clutch is cooler. That means the motor has to get really hot, before the heat off the radiator is enough to activate the clutch. Similarly, my 60 runs cooler when the AC is on, I think becase that heats the air flowing past the clutch and draws more total air through the radiator.
In the 80 you can't tell, because the gauge is insensitive to small differences in the temp.
In the winter, the cooler outer air means the fan clutch is less likely to be on, because the air flowing past the clutch is cooler. That means the motor has to get really hot, before the heat off the radiator is enough to activate the clutch. Similarly, my 60 runs cooler when the AC is on, I think becase that heats the air flowing past the clutch and draws more total air through the radiator.
In the 80 you can't tell, because the gauge is insensitive to small differences in the temp.
Right, but unless I'm really reading it wrong, what Rick is saying is that his temps are almost totally stable in Summer but very variable in Winter. For whatever reason, as posted above, my rig responds oppositely and I'm trying to figure out if perhaps setting the fan clutch at 95 is a little low or if 6K fluid is a little high. I guess what I'm saying is that with an almost four year record of really accurate temps to read (I've got a gauge that goes in 2 degree increments) my extreme range of operating temps is 80 C at the lowest and 98 C at the highest with very little variability in Winter and a range of 18C in the Summer. Even though I've got the good fluid from Cruiserdan, I'm trying to think this through and perhaps set the timing to 100 or 105 or whatever as opposed to the 95 that Rick pioneered. Its sorta unfair for me to even wonder or worry with this but like I already wrote above, that one old winter post that Rick posted got me thinking, and, once that starts ...
Thanks.
- Thread starter
- #348
I've pretty much gone as far as I'm going to with this. The OFNA oil seems to be every bit as good if not better that the factory stuff and my truck's temps during hot weather are under control.
The best thing TurboCruiser, is for you to start comparing your own data with your clutch. I think there would be more variables than we can count trying to go between our two trucks.
The best thing TurboCruiser, is for you to start comparing your own data with your clutch. I think there would be more variables than we can count trying to go between our two trucks.
Yes, that is wise. Rick, I missed where the 95 degree setting started from. Is that in some data description of the clutch or was it a calculated guess? Another reason to wonder is as far as I remember the lowest factory setting you have had so far was 105, right? Just wondering what is the factory spec and also wondering if the factory spec in AUS for example is different for the timing as well as for the fluid? Hmmmm?
- Thread starter
- #350
what happened is, I had adjusted the timing and drove down to the Cape towing my pop-up camping trailer. It was around 100*F and the truck was still running very warm. While at camp I bought another cheap thermometer and tried to adjust the clutch slightly colder. Well that thermometer wasn't worth crap so I just moved the disk, eye balled it. After a few drive cycles around the area the truck started to run better. Then on the way home in near identical weather the temperature stayed down where I wanted it to. It still had a few spikes under long hill climbs but those were also reduced. I then replaced the oil with OFNA 5K and those few spikes were eliminated. When I got home from that trip I did eval on the clutch and determined it was set for 95*F.
Cattledog had come down to the house and I performed the same adjustment and oil change on his clutch. He also saw similar results in temp control.
The funny thing is that during our MAF data logging I noticed that his truck was running warm, viewed while driving and looking at his modded temp gauge. He informed me that he had opened the clutch up and changed it's timing. I'm not sure if he did a temp eval on it or just an eyeball adjustment but the change definitely was noticeable to me.
Cattledog had come down to the house and I performed the same adjustment and oil change on his clutch. He also saw similar results in temp control.
The funny thing is that during our MAF data logging I noticed that his truck was running warm, viewed while driving and looking at his modded temp gauge. He informed me that he had opened the clutch up and changed it's timing. I'm not sure if he did a temp eval on it or just an eyeball adjustment but the change definitely was noticeable to me.
Ahaa! That was exactly the evolution of experience I was wanting to learn about. Thanks Rick. I think for experimental purposes I will simply test my blue fan clutch, see where it is set at, change the oil to 6K and then let the data determine where we go. Thanks again Rick!
re_guderian
SILVER Star
Just did my fan clutch mod last weekend. I need to get home and post up the pics though. My clutch was new from Dan last summer, and I still suffered from an occasional warm up in vent temps of the AC during traffic or slow speed wheeling, though it would blow cold on the freeway.
My clutch didn't open fully until between 115-120 F according to the candy thermometer. Screws were almost exactly centered in the slots as it came from the factory, unlike some of the pics here. Seems to be a lot of variability in "factory" settings?
By the way, the impact screw driver is the best tool ever invented (at least for this week.) $15 at True Value, and all 8 #3 Philips came out super easy and tightened up just as quick. I had redone a clutch on my FJ60 several years ago, and ended up using ez-outs on the screws, and replacing with hex-head bolts. That sucked.
I had ordered one tube of 10K and 2 tubes of 6K CST Toyota fluid from Dan on Friday, but couldn't wait so I picked up some OFNA fluid from the hobby store. They didn't have any 10K in stock, but I got 7K. The old fluid was very honey colored. Since the spring thaw is on down here in AZ, I went wheeling Monday AM, and temps were good, and AC blew cold all morning, but ambient probably only to low 90's.
I haven't gotten the RavenTai mod done to my temp gauge, but planned on getting an OBD-II scanner soon, so I should be able to track coolant temps. I also still have my OEM fan clutch, so it is possible to run the same routes and easily collect the same data for both clutches, since the weather here is usually uniformly FRICKIN' HOT this time of year...
Should be 106-107 by early next week.
I also put new nuts on the clutch and fan. Even my ones from last year were hard to remove from the base. I used one of those curved box ended wrenches, and a big screwdriver to keep it from rotating.
It would be interesting to know what the temp/time curve looks like for fan operation, in that for every degree sooner it opens on the heating cycle, it also will stay on that much longer on the cool down side, so the fan should be turing at higher RPM's for longer time with the mod. Doubly so with the viscosity change, no?
My clutch didn't open fully until between 115-120 F according to the candy thermometer. Screws were almost exactly centered in the slots as it came from the factory, unlike some of the pics here. Seems to be a lot of variability in "factory" settings?
By the way, the impact screw driver is the best tool ever invented (at least for this week.) $15 at True Value, and all 8 #3 Philips came out super easy and tightened up just as quick. I had redone a clutch on my FJ60 several years ago, and ended up using ez-outs on the screws, and replacing with hex-head bolts. That sucked.
I had ordered one tube of 10K and 2 tubes of 6K CST Toyota fluid from Dan on Friday, but couldn't wait so I picked up some OFNA fluid from the hobby store. They didn't have any 10K in stock, but I got 7K. The old fluid was very honey colored. Since the spring thaw is on down here in AZ, I went wheeling Monday AM, and temps were good, and AC blew cold all morning, but ambient probably only to low 90's.
I haven't gotten the RavenTai mod done to my temp gauge, but planned on getting an OBD-II scanner soon, so I should be able to track coolant temps. I also still have my OEM fan clutch, so it is possible to run the same routes and easily collect the same data for both clutches, since the weather here is usually uniformly FRICKIN' HOT this time of year...
Should be 106-107 by early next week.I also put new nuts on the clutch and fan. Even my ones from last year were hard to remove from the base. I used one of those curved box ended wrenches, and a big screwdriver to keep it from rotating.
It would be interesting to know what the temp/time curve looks like for fan operation, in that for every degree sooner it opens on the heating cycle, it also will stay on that much longer on the cool down side, so the fan should be turing at higher RPM's for longer time with the mod. Doubly so with the viscosity change, no?
- Thread starter
- #354
Will do. Is the oil coming with it or should I get that myself?
Yes I thought that was the plan. (well actually I figured you had some leftover) If I need to include extra money for the oil it's no problem at all.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=2189105&postcount=324
Thanks,
Kirk
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=2189105&postcount=324
Thanks,
Kirk
- Thread starter
- #356
I got you covered.
Great thanks. do me a favor and let me know when it arrives. My rig is now running hot ever since this weekend, when my radiator was damaged by a tool that was left under the hood by the mechanic who replaced the radiator. The one that got damaged was a semi universal 3 core with brass tanks. The one i replaced it with is a aluminum cored one... not i run at about 1/3 on the temp gauge and just under a half when hot with the air on.. I'm putting in an aftermarket gauge this weekend and a new OEM thermostat, next is the fan clutch.
Thanks Again
Kirk
Thanks Again
Kirk
semlin
curmudgeon
your oem gauge reads 1/3 most of the time and moves to 1/2 when hot? that is not normal behaviour. that gauge from the factory has a huge dead spot and should run right in the middle/horizontal when it warms up and should not move at all after that unless you are running very hot. your results would mean you either have a temp gauge/sender problem and are periodically overheating or else you are running very cool.
take a look in the faq section for the raventai temp gauge mod and then from there go to the original thread. somewhere in there is a set of calibration measurements to tell you what temp your truck is at based on the factory gauge position.
take a look in the faq section for the raventai temp gauge mod and then from there go to the original thread. somewhere in there is a set of calibration measurements to tell you what temp your truck is at based on the factory gauge position.
Thanks.
I'm guessing bad sender but I'm putting in the upper radiator hose 1/8 npt mount from greddy and installing a brand new autometer water temp gauge I have laying around. Then I'll test the factory sender. The 80 is not my daily driver so I have time to figure it out.
I may have been running overly cool before and a little hot now... I wish I had an ODBII port so I could use my scangauge II...
I'm guessing bad sender but I'm putting in the upper radiator hose 1/8 npt mount from greddy and installing a brand new autometer water temp gauge I have laying around. Then I'll test the factory sender. The 80 is not my daily driver so I have time to figure it out.
I may have been running overly cool before and a little hot now... I wish I had an ODBII port so I could use my scangauge II...
Did the fan clutch drain and fill with 10,000 Cst tonight as well as the RavenTai temp gauge modification. Will have results tommorow on the way home from work after a heat soak and with the A/C on full blast. Hopefully my vent temps drop a few degrees.
