Bleeding a 3B engine (1 Viewer)

Joined
Oct 18, 2014
Messages
5
Location
Upper Hunter Valley, NSW
After destroying 2 x 3B engines, Original by hitting a Kangaroo and trying to get to next town and relying on temp gauge, Total overheat and cracked everything.

Bought a so called reco engine that had only done 30k and it lasted 2k, Valve seats collapsed and took out No. 1 Piston and liner.

Now my problem, It is all back together and trying to start it, Has been fitted with new liners, pistons and head. All was done in the Toyota Coaster so never removed engine. The fuel pump is inline. Also the fuel pump was not removed from engine.

I cannot get fuel up to injectors, Even cranked it over with no glow plugs and nothing is coming up to cracked nuts on injectors. It was running till I pulled it down.

Would fuel come out the top of injector pump line outlets on pump if using the hand primer as I tried that before and zero fuel was showing up. I haven't removed the fuel filter or tried bleeding from their.

It has been off the road for maybe 3 months now. Any help appreciated.
 
Joined
Aug 20, 2007
Messages
2,150
Location
Brisbane, Australia
If you want a special trick, then go buy one of those manual diff oil filler pumps from Super Cheap Auto, place it on the fuel bleed nipple which is on the diesel filter cradle and suck up the diesel, then suck up some diesel with the pump from the fuel tank and blow it back thru the same nipple.

If the pump on the IP has air in it, it won't suck up the diesel from the fuel tank (the little plunger pump that on the IP don't work if they have air in them, they are waste of time.

These diff oil pumps are also good to prime the new engine with oil after a rebuild, take the oil pressure sensor off and use the pump and pump engine oil into the galleries, also make sure you manually fill the oil filter with oil before you screw in on?
 
Joined
Oct 18, 2014
Messages
5
Location
Upper Hunter Valley, NSW
I've got one of those I used for Hydraulic oil, I could give it a good clean out and it should work, I have since undid the bleeder on the filter housing and it is dribbling fuel when I use the hand primer. Infact the more I plunged the less fuel I got. Is there a bleeder on the pump???

I have turned the engine over heaps of times with glow plugs removed to prime the oil filter and spread the oil around before firing it up. I have also removed the glow plugs again so that I can prime it with no compression. It is fairly tight and flattens the battery real quick.
 
Joined
Aug 20, 2007
Messages
2,150
Location
Brisbane, Australia
You have air in the line before the hand primer, you need to suck all the air out of the fuel line?

Did you pre fill the oil filter & oil gallery?
 
Joined
Oct 18, 2014
Messages
5
Location
Upper Hunter Valley, NSW
No I didn't fill the oil filter as turning it over to me should fill the filter and put enough oil around to start it. The oil pressure light went out and then I kept turning it over and it was assembled with plenty of oil.

I'll have another go tomorrow with the bleeding doing as you suggested.
 
Joined
Aug 20, 2007
Messages
2,150
Location
Brisbane, Australia
Next time pre fill the oil filter & gallery, when you buy a reco motor those are instructions of how to prime a engine, what worries me is the statement you said it's fairly tight, which means if its a new oil filter there is a lot of air to get rid of which means your bearings will be starved of oil by the time filter & gallery fills.
 
Joined
Aug 20, 2007
Messages
2,150
Location
Brisbane, Australia
The general rule I use on a diesel if I replace oil & fuel filters I pre fill them, special if you drain the engine of oil, the oil filter holds around a litre of oil. The fuel filter you don't what air in the system with a diesel, your having trouble starting your engine because of air, diesels don't like air, and the pump cannot pump air.

Once the pump hits air it stops moving the diesel fuel forward to the IP to pressurise the injectors.
 
Joined
Oct 18, 2014
Messages
5
Location
Upper Hunter Valley, NSW
The fuel filter was changed 2k before the motor blew up so I didn't change it this time, So it was still full. I used the syringe trick and trying to suck fuel out of the bleed nipple. In 4 attempts using a 500ml syringe I got a thimble full each time. The bleed nipple is as clean as a whistle so it wasn't blocked as I checked that before starting.

I then used a container of fresh fuel and put a tube from bleed nipple to container and pumped on the primer and eventually it had no bubbles. I tried it and no fuel is still coming out the flange nut on injector as I had it cracked open.

I have since used the syringe to push fuel through the bleed nipple and run out of time to try it.

One question if the glow plugs are out will fuel still show at the union on injector when turning over or do you need glow plugs in??

Now re the oil, I have spoken to three separate mechanics about what I have done and all agree if I have oil pressure which I do then it will be fine to start. Remember the crank was not removed, nor the oil pump, filter was changed. I gave everything a good coating of oil during assembly and run it down all holes in the head around lifters

In my time I have rebuilt about 20 motors, All petrol before this and done the same thing and never had an issue with any of them.

If someone can answer the glow plug question it will be much appreciated, Also thanks for input so far
 
Joined
Oct 10, 2012
Messages
68
Location
AUSTRALIND, Western Australia
Hey Mate

Won't make any difference with glow plugs is or out. I have had trouble bleeding my 3B also, one thing to try is pressurizing the fuel tank with compressed air, then have someone crack the bleed nipple.
 
Joined
Oct 18, 2014
Messages
5
Location
Upper Hunter Valley, NSW
I assume it is as when pumping on the primer after about 20 min it was clear diesel no air coming through. But when turning the motor over none is showing at the injector. I haven't touched it for the last few days and probably won't till next weekend.
 

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