Bj74, oldtoy

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I can;t see any spring on mine, but I do have a oil vapour issue from the PCV to intake, I will be fitting an oil seperator to try and fix it, provent diesel spec catch can looks like the go from what I have been reading. if you can post a photo from a little further back to identify it a bit better.
 
Yeah, I've considered catch can as well, if you follow srew driver you can see where I thought a spring would be
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Just above screwdriver the misty bolt, should there be a spring in the middle ?? Thanks for checking
 
A couple pics of the latest additions to Oldtoy, the dash pod and turbo timer, all fun and learnt from it as well,
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On another subject I had been looking at vdj76r and toying with the idea to sell both 4x4 to fund one ......".As the 70 series has not changed too much interior wise over the years, it made think the bj74 int in my opinion is still better than a brand new vdj76 GXL , How good do those v8 deisel sound with a 3" exhaust, totally awesome
 
They sound absolutely sweet, but IMHO, Don't do it. The 1VD leaves a bit to be desired in the design department. They are known to burn oil, and a friend of mine has had endless trouble with his, including replacing a set of injectors ($8000.00) at approx 150,000 ks. The last of the sixes, the 1HD-FTE is a nice engine. Might be better off to look for something with one of them in it.
 
AussieHJCruza said:
They sound absolutely sweet, but IMHO, Don't do it. The 1VD leaves a bit to be desired in the design department. They are known to burn oil, and a friend of mine has had endless trouble with his, including replacing a set of injectors ($8000.00) at approx 150,000 ks. The last of the sixes, the 1HD-FTE is a nice engine. Might be better off to look for something with one of them in it.
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That's exactly what I've been reading, which does give rise for concern, burning oil, injectors playing up, etc I did see a 2005 100 series with the last of the six pot turbo, upgrade 11, I'd never seen one before, maybe that's 1HD-fte ?? That spiked my attention, like i said just toying with the idea, as it would my wife's car at the end of the day, with me just adding stuff to it
 
That probably has the 1HD-FTE in it. Very smooth and quiet, and gbentink on the forum has done several putting out some serious power and torque figures safely.
 
Today I got my dash mat delivered for my new dash set up, I found a place where they can personalise dash matt if required, so I bit the bullet and tried something, what do you think,?
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Very nice. I like that extra instrument pod as well.
 
Looks so much better that the lime green shag carpet is see on some of the cars around home. ( the cars with the spinner rims). : )
 
I bet your airplane has a custom dash mat.....:grinpimp:
 
Project grille is underway, managed to get a bj73 grille black in colour and which I had to remove paint and clean up getting ready for chroming.
As OE bj74 grilles came with blacked centre and chromed frame, and that's what I'm trying to attempt, my concern is that the process of painting over chrome, as the the whole grille will be plated , and I need to paint over centre, anyone had experience with painting over chrome, I hear etching prep is the way to go, but then I have heard it's not either , so a little confused?
It going to be horrible of a job to scratch up the chrome within the centre to prep to ensure the primer or etch actually sticks to the chrome,
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Black nickel plating would make a good choice. It's as tough as chromium, plates up the same way, just a little different chemistry. I've used instruments and equipment plated this way, it stands up well, corrosion, abrasion and wear are similar. Hell, I think the nickel (nickel ammonium sulfate) comes from QLD.
 
I've got more jobs on the do list for Oldtoy, the grill is still on the burner, I've purchased 3 OEM flares, 2 front from HDJ79, and passenger rear flare from bj73, from a wrecker, lucky finds, I've had to try my hand at fibreglass repair, all good so far.
The latest addition to the to do list is a pto that's needs cleaning up, got one from 60s, so drive shafts will need to be corrected to right lengths, so for now I'm just breaking down to clean up.
I've taken of one end off the shaft to remove the pillow block as the bearings are shot, but Ive hit a brick wall, the woodruff key and sleeve behind it, how do I get the key out and that the sleeve, but on FSM the sleeve is not identified, or is not a sleeve?
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image.webpimage.webp image.webp image.webp Update; stripped / ripped down pto and have all new seals and bearings ready to be installed, I have given the the pto it's first coat, after having it sandblasted as the internals was rusted out as no oil had been in for quite some time.
Just want to know get the thoughts of others regarding whether to coat the internal pto case, I'm a little concerned because I sandblasted inside case to remove rust and build up of crud, should I look to coat inside the case with a specific product as well to ensure rust does not return,......yes I know oil is in the lower worm drive, but will the splash basically coat the rest of the case?
Snaps of the bullbar I have found to do up that has enough room and depth to install the pto, a little fab may be required but should not be a real issue
 
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Went out on sunday for a cruise into the bush, looking for some cold waterholes as it was very warm over the weekend,
Temp was 37+ degrees, AC on all day, and I accidentally overheated and touched the red at one stage, damn it, ( 5th gear, climbing in and out of hills and turns) Pulled over immediately and we both had a breather, back to normal range very quickly. Did a couple of climbs while we are out playing, if I work out how to load my daughters go pro footage I'll post em up
 
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