BJ74, LHD conversion, 12HT, H55f, wheeling machine

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Joined
Mar 3, 2006
Threads
142
Messages
1,782
Location
Everett, WA
Website
www.torfab.com
I started my BJ74 LHD conversion last week, and hope to have my engine installed this week. I've taken some pics along the way and will post them up. Here are some details on my build:

I'm building this as an adventure vehicle, so beauty isn't my objective, rather functionality. I'm fighting myself on how deep I want to go into rust repair, but if I get too involved in that aspect, I won't want to take it off road to have some fun. The Pacific NW is treacherous terrain, and lots of dents are inevitable with tight trails and trees.

Specs include: LHD conversion, 12HT install, H55f, custom front bumper and side protection, sound proofing interior, cb radio, house battery for fridge etc, interior cage, sliders, warn winch, roof rack, radius arm front suspension, spring over rear suspension (or multi link).

I don't have a whole bunch of time to work on this, because our shop is backed up so space is limited. We only have space for 3 rigs in the shop, so we have to schedule things very carefully. I'm stealing some space while I'm waiting for parts for another project, so time is limited.

I've finished moving all the brackets for the LHD conversion, and am ready for sound proofing then dash install. This week I hope to have the engine installed and hopefully running. The radiator will need to be modified, so that's a challenge for now. So far I have painted the front and back of the firewall in POR-15, and I will sound proof tomorrow, then on to bolting in the dash pieces and wiring next.

I'm using the BJ70 wiring harness because I want it to be 12 volts. It's easier to run 12 volts, especially if you need a jump start. the 24 volt harness is superior, but is difficult to deal with when it comes to accessories and servicing.

I'm toying with using an NPR alternator vs converting the existing unit to 12 volts due to ease off replacement. I think it will be easier for parts availability. I have done that before with good success. The 12 volt converted alternator only puts out 35 amps, so it's lacking when you are using a heater, etc.
 
Here are some pics of progress so far

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Awesome build , that POR15 is good stuff

I run the same 12HT/H55F set up. Awesome combo

If I may , I recommend linking the rear , with the power 12HT's dish out its not hard to stuff springs in SOA configuration. I'm still SO for now and have added anti wrap bars and all seems fine but for the work involved I think it would have just been easier just to have linked it in the first place . Do it once do it right

Look forward to future installments :)
 
I'm building this as an adventure vehicle, so beauty isn't my objective, rather functionality. I'm fighting myself on how deep I want to go into rust repair, but if I get too involved in that aspect, I won't want to take it off road to have some fun. The Pacific NW is treacherous terrain, and lots of dents are inevitable with tight trails and trees.

My 2 cents - you're putting a lot of work into this truck... really fix the rust. Be a shame to get it set up just how you like it, then watch it rot away on you.

I think a 74 with a 12H-T is going to be killer.
 
The dash is back together and wiring harness installed, I got to mock up the engine last night. Engine mounts will be done today, then I will de-rust the frame and paint it with POR-15.

I did cut out a bunch of rust in the tub, especially on the right hand floor board by the pedals. I will go over the windshield frame next summer, and rockers. I'm leaving them alone for now because I only have a certain amount of time alotted for this project in the shop.

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Tor -

Good thing you got a fork lift there.....need a bigger shop though.

Have I mentioned how f*****g much I love my Torota Wagon after the motor swap?

I need to buy more cruisers so you can fix 'em.

Hmmmmm, how 'bout a 1HD-FT fire truck?

Diesel Toys 3.webp
 
New engine mounts are welded in for the 12HT, now for some POR-15 treatment for the frame. POR15 is great if done properly, but it's a pain in the arse. Clean frame, wire wheel loose rust, clean with their solvent, etch metal with prep-n-ready, get completely dry, then apply paint.

Oh well, it's a labor of love

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nice build ...

Comment

Why not just do hydro booster setup and run what ever alternator you want ?

amp problem solve and vacuum problem solved too ..
 
Tapage, I ran hydroboost before with my fj60 converted to 6.2 diesel. I didn't like the result, it couldn't even lock up the brakes.

How do you run yours?

that's weird ..

I'm running PSC pump with the fancy HB reservoir for tons of fluid, fluid cooler in the front

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that move my 60 series ported box and the M1008 HB ( Chevy usually found in one ton trucks 3500 / K30 )

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and it locks with no hesitation my 40"

Actually if you push it real hard ( like locking tires on dry pavement ) it draw so much from the PS pump that it lower my engine idle rpm ... ( TDI 2H )

it is actually better than my 80 series dual diaphragm 80 series brake booster with 80 series ( non abs ) MC ..

Right now I'm using with my HB setup an 1" MC ( chevy from 90 camaro IIRC ) this it's the best combo and I've tried from 1 1/4" to 1"

Note: I'm using SJ413 V6 4R calipers on front .. and eldo calipers in the rear .. and I must said while pedal feel it's very subjective, pedal feel with the 80 setup was less " firm " and with more travel than it's now .. now I would like to have more travel but the same firm pedal feel ..

Just haven't time to dig to much on that ..

sorry for the long post .. hope it helps .. hi jack over ..
 
So the final plan is to run a 12 volt converted 12HT alternator to power a house battery. This will be a single deep cycle battery connected to a fridge and lights for camping.

The second alternator will be from an FZJ80, which is an 80 amp unit, will run the truck and dual batteries.

This way makes sense to me, because it means no chance to drain the battery with the fridge and running lights at night. I have all the part to install AC, but am going to skip that for now because I can do without in the PNW.
 
Good thought, how well does that BJ70 scoot with a 12HT under the hood?

Goes like a cut cat with 4.56 gears and 35s . Like anything you've gotta get them running in their comfort zone ie tuned. My other 70 with 12HT has just had a full block and head rebuild , yet to be tuned and is pretty gutless . You'd swear they weren't running the same engine..

Is the engine bolted in , in post #14?
Looks like it might be a push to close the bonnet?
Howd you get on with the passenger side engine mount , did you go custom or just use the 60 series one? I had to make one to get the engine to sit low enough in the chassis without cutting into the bonnet . Quite tall 12HT's

and yeah POR15 is annoying to use with it all its prep but I wouldn't use much else
 
Goes like a cut cat with 4.56 gears and 35s . Like anything you've gotta get them running in their comfort zone ie tuned. My other 70 with 12HT has just had a full block and head rebuild , yet to be tuned and is pretty gutless . You'd swear they weren't running the same engine..



Many years ago we did a turbo on 1hz and intercooler water to air and bumped the Denco turbo up to 14psi (hzj73)... Tons of power, crawled even better..

Rob:beer:
 
I used the 12ht rubber, but modified the brackets to recess them below the frame. It sits .5" under the hood "bonnet" ;-)

Finished dual alts yesterday, now its running an 80amp fzj80 alternator for the primary and a 12ht alt converted to 12volt for the secondary (house battery). The bracket was a challenge, there's not much room under the hood.
 
I drove the cruiser to the exhaust shop today, the engine was nice and smooth, H55f didn't pop out of 5th gear, and the truck drove straight. I'm super happy.

The engine is still in stock tune, so that will be next on my list after installing a pyro and boost gauge. Then I will up the boost to 14psi and increase fuel a bit.
 
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