BJ70 Cooling saga continues...HELP! (1 Viewer)

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I,m with Jan-78FJ40 water is water and boils at 212F. The reason you can go beyond 212 is that you have added antifreeze\ anti boil over. The properties of the solution when mixed with water allow it to run hotter than 212 without it boiling. And to think some refrigerants boil at under 32*F.
Now you are really confusssed.
A mixture of 70\30 antifreeze to water should be good to around 135*C or 275*F before it will boil.

.02 :beer:
 
lowenbrau said:
As far as temps go. I start to watch carefully at 230 and start to worry at 240. At 250 I actually actively do something.
Funny, we recored Charla's BJ73 to four row and it seems to be hotter now too. Are you sure you have all the air out?

Bruce,

With that comment I feel a little better. I'm sure all the air is out because after trying to bleed this thing 2 x myself I finally said skrew it and took it to a shop to have it done just to be sure.
 
I don't even play one on TV :)

good info, thanks for the correction.............but I must have watched too much Mythbusters.......as they said distilled what will not boil

Jan-78FJ40 said:
I am sorry to chime in, but as a scientist I can't let that go.
distilled water boils just fine, at precisely 100 celsius at sea level. no impurities needed.
J
 
silvercrusher said:
I,m with Jan-78FJ40 water is water and boils at 212F. The reason you can go beyond 212 is that you have added antifreeze\ anti boil over. The properties of the solution when mixed with water allow it to run hotter than 212 without it boiling. And to think some refrigerants boil at under 32*F.
Now you are really confusssed.
A mixture of 70\30 antifreeze to water should be good to around 135*C or 275*F before it will boil.

.02 :beer:


I agree that distilled or not, water boils at 212F "at sea level". Water boils "later" or at a higher temperature as pressure increases, and boils much quicker at lower pressures.

At 10000 feet above sea level, water will boil at 193F, 173F at 20000 feet. In other words, on the peak of Mt. Everest, which I think exceeds 29000ft, water will boil at a mere 154F! The reverse, of course, is also true.

Ethylene Glycol (anti-freeze) in a 50-50 mix with water wil boil at 266F "at sea level". Add pressure to the system and you may see 300F or more before the liquid vaporizes within the cooling system.
 
moose_sv1000s said:
and boils much quicker at lower pressures. .

I think you may be refering to a vaccum or state of negative pressure. All tests based on a marine standard day of course.

Haha what do you do for work moose and where around here do you live we should have beers some time and contemplate turbos.

Challis
 
Brett-We're still planning on you at Dusy with us. 202 sounds fine, does it boilover or go in the redzone when driving? One simple thing I have missed before is a bad radiator cap. If it doesn't seal, you won't build the pressure it takes to raise the boiling point of the coolant. If the secondary of the cap doesn't seal, then you suck air and not coolant at shut down. Air in the system makes the sensor read hot, assuming the diesel has the temp sensor at the top of the head like a gasser.

About water pumps-when they fail, they leak. If have never heard of one failing to pump, unless the impeller falls off the shaft. That is the last place I would look to solve a cooling problem.
 
lowenbrau said:
As far as temps go. I start to watch carefully at 230 and start to worry at 240. At 250 I actually actively do something.

Funny, we recored Charla's BJ73 to four row and it seems to be hotter now too.

Are you sure you have all the air out?

Interesting. So your seeing those #'s in the bj73 which doesn't have a turbo. And do you have the sensor in the thermostat?

What is actively at 250? pull over and let it cool or what?

So my 210-220 is pretty tame huh? I'm glad to hear ar can let her run up to 240 :D
 
moose_sv1000s said:
At 10000 feet above sea level, water will boil at 193F, 173F at 20000 feet. In other words, on the peak of Mt. Everest, which I think exceeds 29000ft, water will boil at a mere 154F! The reverse, of course, is also true.

That's why the English mountaineers act so hard done by up high. 154F is not nearly hot enough to make a good cup of tea.

Oh and Brett, before you follow my lead you should know that the head on my BJ70 is cracked.
 
silvercrusher said:
I think you may be refering to a vaccum or state of negative pressure. All tests based on a marine standard day of course.

Haha what do you do for work moose and where around here do you live we should have beers some time and contemplate turbos.

Challis


For sure with the :beer: :beer: :beer: !!

I'm up in Cobble Hill, and I'm an engineering student looking for a summer job (but not looking TOO hard).

Give me a PM next time you have some free time on the weekend and we'll gather at a pub. Any other Islanders want to get together for pub food and brewskies?
 
did you check your EGT .. ?

I was noticed some years agoo that if you increase the amount of diesel ( with increase the air intake ) your engine have more diesel in the chamber that it can burn = more tmp.

In the other hand 14 PSI, wou .. normaly Toyota factory turbo it's set to 9 PSI.

My fist step was down to stock the diesel pump setup, and check it again.
 
Cruiserdrew said:
About water pumps-when they fail, they leak. If have never heard of one failing to pump, unless the impeller falls off the shaft. That is the last place I would look to solve a cooling problem.


I've had an impeller lose a fin and then the loose fin ate up about 3 more. It was enough to cause the truck (F250) to overheat. The 4 mashed fins were found in the engine block with a freeze-plug replacement and flush.

But you are right, this is as rare as an honest politician.
 
Cracked head be damned!!! I'm wheelin Dusy this year if I have to drag this fawking thing there with a tow strap around my waist. Andy, I'm there! When I blow up my engine do you think your 40 will tow me back ok? :grinpimp:
 
dieselbigot said:
Cracked head be damned!!! I'm wheelin Dusy this year if I have to drag this fawking thing there with a tow strap around my waist. Andy, I'm there! When I blow up my engine do you think your 40 will tow me back ok? :grinpimp:

you just say that because you need an excuse to stick a low mileage 13BT in there :)
 
dieselbigot said:
Cracked head be damned!!! I'm wheelin Dusy this year if I have to drag this fawking thing there with a tow strap around my waist. Andy, I'm there! When I blow up my engine do you think your 40 will tow me back ok? :grinpimp:


Attaboy
 
Silly question Brett, but have you tried a pressure test on your coolant system? Wayne swears it is the best way to tell how it's working.

Secondly, I have to agree with Bruce on the air thing. 70 series are notoriously hard to bleed the air out the coolant system. I find you have to add a little coolant, drive it for a day, add a little more and so forth.

I'm getting a 4 core rad this summer for my overheating problems too, so I'm very curious on how it works out.

Anyway, my 2 cents.

Craig
 
Ok as an engineer (not the train type Greg) and a motor head I need to chime in here on the whole water boiling thing, and altitude/pressure.

For the record, engines have pressurized coolent systems to raising the boiling point of coolant and allow the engine not to bleed off all of the coolent via normal use.

Since the coolant system is pressurized the altitude at which you drive it will have very little effect on the boiling point.

Since the sytem is pressurized the boiling point of 212f or 100c is not a factor the boiling point will be higher.

The amount of pressure you run for your cap is a determining factor and the cap pressure is calculated by toyota based on the limitations or limits in engine components, mainly the radiator, hoses, and then pump and head gaskets. Yes running a high pressure cap allows higher temp but might also cause failure points if it is too high.

I hope that helps explain things, and also I am with Wayne, so what the rest of us are not invited :( I am kind of hurt.. :crybaby:

Michael
 
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Let me see .. in agreement with it, the rad cap is as exhaust way for cooland to prevent other failures in the coolings system.

I thought thta in Toy LC specs all rad caps are 9 lbs.
 
dieselbigot said:
Cracked head be damned!!! I'm wheelin Dusy this year if I have to drag this fawking thing there with a tow strap around my waist. Andy, I'm there! When I blow up my engine do you think your 40 will tow me back ok? :grinpimp:

Well-the 40 keeps chugging along. I'll tow you home, but it's going to take a long, long time. Could you tow the 70 to Shaver Lake with your trailer and go from there?
 

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