BJ70 Cooling saga continues...HELP!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Tapage said:
Let me see .. in agreement with it, the rad cap is as exhaust way for cooland to prevent other failures in the coolings system.

I thought thta in Toy LC specs all rad caps are 9 lbs.
13LBS
 
part number for ALL models in europe, Aussi, New Zealand, Japan, NA...of LC up till 08/99 is 16401-54750 (13LBS)
 
B,
I just swapped my Probe to the NPT on the thermostat and around the neighborhood with a short trip to the store it was 200-205. Dunno what the hills/mtns will show.
 
Tapage said:
Let me see .. in agreement with it, the rad cap is as exhaust way for cooland to prevent other failures in the coolings system.

I thought thta in Toy LC specs all rad caps are 9 lbs.

Rad caps are 0.9ATM which is about 13 pounds. THat's why .9 is on the caps.
 
Cruiserdrew said:
Rad caps are 0.9ATM which is about 13 pounds. THat's why .9 is on the caps.

Hey an American that knows british measurements way cool. Must be a transplant!
 
wesintl said:
B,
I just swapped my Probe to the NPT on the thermostat and around the neighborhood with a short trip to the store it was 200-205. Dunno what the hills/mtns will show.

Interesting...let me know what kind of temps you get in the hills wes...thx
 
Cruiserdrew said:
Could you tow the 70 to Shaver Lake with your trailer and go from there?

I could but then how long of a drive back would it be to get the tow rig when we finish the trail?
 
Cruiserdrew said:
Rad caps are 0.9ATM which is about 13 pounds. THat's why .9 is on the caps.

thanks dude .. ineresting .. I need to check it on my rad cap, for sure. Maybe my heating problems in extreme off road use in my 2H engine can come from bad selection on Rad Cap .. ?
 
lumpy70 said:
I'm getting a 4 core rad this summer for my overheating problems too, so I'm very curious on how it works out.

I have a 4 core rad in the 73. Last summer I had no problems with overheating. However, that was when the heater was seized on half way. Now that that is fixed I have been experiencing high temps and am not entirely sure why. Now that I'm thinking about it, I've had heating problems since I had a block heater installed (coolant froze and the Webasto failed at -43C). hmmm...

Anyway, keep us posted on your findings Brett.
 
Brett, as far as burping goes, make sure you open your heater valve, set to the highest heater temp, turn on the fan, & let coolant flow through the heater core. I've found in many vehicles that if you don't do that you never finish the job.
 
Brett,
I ran up to georgetown for the annual RS Argentine pass clean up and the 70 ran the same albeit was a little cooler outside temp at 7am running up lookout mtn. From when it started it ran up to ~200 then I watched the tstat open and it dropped back down to ~190ish. From there on out it ran 200 or slightly higher all day and pushed 210* up the floyd and the rest of the hills on the way home. I never see mine lower than 200* unless i'm going 80 down hill or it's wintertime :)

AND boy she smokes good at 11,5+
 
thx wes...i did another test run yesterday up the hill to tahoe. up the first hill I hit 210 and it basically stayed between 210-220 until I started up the longer grade out of placerville...hit 230 with no end in sight so I backed off and came home. dropped to 180 downhill and then bounced around between 195-210 in the flatter sections....so I still have issues, this is getting old
 
I could have kept mine climbing past 210 too but I usually try to keep the pryo 1000 or so. What's your pryo with the turbo going up those hills out there?
 
my pyro was only about 825 - 900...i cut back my fuel a bit
 
Have you done a squeeze test on the cooling system yet? I wonder if perhaps you have a headgasket issue. Maybe its pressurizing the cooling system?
 
no I haven't....I guess I'm thinking if I had a head crack or gasket issue I'd be seeing other syptoms...white smoke, coolant in the oil etc. Remember too that I was cooling much better right before I swapped out the 3 core rad and did all the things listed at the top of the post. In fact the only time I was heating up to levels that concerned me was under extreme circumstances....high ambiant temps (100F+) during a long steep climb. Other than that it was working pretty well. I guess I just can't buy the head theory given that fact. I wished I'd left well enough alone :doh:
 
dieselbigot said:
no I haven't....I guess I'm thinking if I had a head crack or gasket issue I'd be seeing other syptoms...white smoke, coolant in the oil etc. Remember too that I was cooling much better right before I swapped out the 3 core rad and did all the things listed at the top of the post. In fact the only time I was heating up to levels that concerned me was under extreme circumstances....high ambiant temps (100F+) during a long steep climb. Other than that it was working pretty well. I guess I just can't buy the head theory given that fact. I wished I'd left well enough alone :doh:


Looking at this thread and everthing you have mentioned the only thing that seems to make any scense is that you have air in the radiator and have not gotten it all out. a 4 core should not make it worse, but in swapping the rad not getting all the air out could make it worse.

There are many on here that have there own way of "burping" the cooling system. I myself keep squeezing the top rad hose and adding water as the air comes out.

Just an idea in despiration for you.

Cheers,

Michael
 
Mine only had symptoms of smoke at startup and it was somewhat difficult to dissern between usual startup smoke and excessive coolant combustion. FWIW my 3b and 2f both drank coolant to the effect that there were no other symtoms other than runnin hot, the coolant test and in the 2f case lack of power (but I thought that was just normal cruiser power ;)) Esp when the crack is right above the combustion chamber. I think folk like to think it's a bad head gasket but I rarely hear that's the case. HTH
 
and get the front end up as high as you can, a steep incline or whatever........this seems to help.

and if you got a rear heater turn it on also.

but if your only running a max of 205deg..........I really don't think you have a problem

but again I don't know crap about the diesels.

dieseldog said:
Brett, as far as burping goes, make sure you open your heater valve, set to the highest heater temp, turn on the fan, & let coolant flow through the heater core. I've found in many vehicles that if you don't do that you never finish the job.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom