Builds BJ42 Restoration

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I will check the indentations again Dead Salt, but I was sure that they did. I might not have the roll bar in place correctly yet because it hasn't been drilled and mounted to the tub yet. I will go deal with that today and get it lined up and and mounted. I had to take almost a year off but things are starting to come back to normal for me family wise. Once I have my moose hunt out of the way then i will be full steam ahead. I'll try to get some other items done today and post again this week.
 
DeadSalt: you are correct, the roll bar only matches the front swage. I'm OK with that though because the rear sits nicely in between the raised portions. If any on out there can give me a measurement from the wheel well to the top of the flat portion of the hardtop side then I can see how much I am out. And maybe a measurement from the rear tub wall. I'll post the measurements I have so I can compare them, thanks in advance.
 
my gozzard tub rear wheel well are 1 inch higher than stock , im in the prosess of fitting stock rear seat and the solution is to cut the weld of the side mount and lower it to the right height and weld it back on
Jim land: I thought of doing that as well except I wasn't expecting this seat mount not to fit so I already had the seat frames powder coated. It's a relatively thing to move the rear stanchions but I'll rune the finish of the powder coat. I'll have to think about how I'm going to over come this one.
 
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Sorry the pics doubled up, I'm not liking my new Nexus phone. Anyway if there is anyone that can confirm these measurements that would be appreciated. Also a measurement from the rear roll bar pad to the rear of the tub so that I can get the location of rhe bar correct before drilling. Thanks
 
I was thinking/hoping
the same thing- maybe the wheel wells are higher allowing say a 33 (or 255/85-16)tall skinny tire a little more clearance and the top rail height is standard.

Still doesn't solve your jump seat problem though.

Pete
 
dont you keep your old tub , it is practical for taking mesurment.
Jim land, no I didn't keep the aft part of it because of storage restrictions in my yard, also the wife gets crankybwhen my back yard starts to look like an auto wrecker. I did keep the cowl tho.
 
It's looking like it's about 1/2" short, so I hope my hardtop clears the doors. I'll have to dig the rusty doors out and mount them and then retrieve my aides and roof from the body shop. .
 
if i can give an advice , test fit everything before painting , alots of small modif to install factory accessory to a custom body tub .
im sure the top and door will fit fine , it is just the wheelwell that is higher on the quarter pannel
I agree JL, Fabian did say to mock everything up 100℅ before mounting the body to the frame or it won't fit properly, I didn't think about the jump seats tho and got ahead of myself. Worst case I have to eat $125 and have them powder coatwd again.
I'll move the rear stanchions down to fit properly and once everything is predrilled and fitted it's off to the paint shop for inside paint, the body shop will then paint the outside once the body is all together, he says that way you get a much better paint finish than if you were to paint pieces individually over a longer period of time. Makes sense to me.
 
I think you guys are correct about the wheel well height, there is a time of clearance in the tire well and once I put the 33s on it will have a really good stance. I'll post a pic of my rims as soon as I get the tires, the powder coat and hi temp JB weld trick to fill the pitting worked very well.
 
The best approach for the seats may be to shorten the lower legs that bolt to the top of the wheel well. If you just move the stantions down the legs that fold out and rest on the floor will end up a 1/2" too short.

Pete
 

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