- Thread starter
- #321
I should be able to run 33s easily with that clearance.
Builds BJ42 Restoration
- Thread starter Crescent Wrench
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #322
As you can see there is still a bit of work to do, non of the body mount holes are drilled, I also have to drill holes for the hood. He used Allen head bolts for the fuel access patch and the transmission cover. I also have to make two big holes for the hard top side pins. Its the pipe that slides down the B pillar by the door latch. I have some rough spots on the primer and some primer imperfection so it will have to be gone over and corrected. Also the is undercoat but it is in the thin side, I will reapply the undercoat when it comes back from the body shot. I noticed that the defrost vents on the windshield landing are about 1/2 the size as the original. Maybe just the Canadian defrosters were hogged out due to our winters, and I also have to drill the hood and windshield mounts. That's it for this week, I'll be back next week and play with it some more. .
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Was original truck an LX?
Some people cut the posts off their hardtop for ease of installation / removal, not sure they are necessary.
- Thread starter
- #325
Ky, no its not an LX , It looks long in the pics I know. I think the pipes are for rigidity in the evening of a roll over.
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Are you happy with the quality and look? Is it what you expected?
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- May 21, 2009
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Congrats it made it !!!
Nice pics ! looks like you are going to need alot of fasteners or did they supply you with stainless nuts and bolts ?
Don't forget to use a membrane gasket when bolting steel parts to stainless, ( Like to roll bar and such ) you can make your own out of rubber or gasket material.
Are you going to paint the tub before you bolt her all down ?
The rear trunk is awesome !
Nice pics ! looks like you are going to need alot of fasteners or did they supply you with stainless nuts and bolts ?
Don't forget to use a membrane gasket when bolting steel parts to stainless, ( Like to roll bar and such ) you can make your own out of rubber or gasket material.
Are you going to paint the tub before you bolt her all down ?
The rear trunk is awesome !
- Thread starter
- #328
Yes it looks really good, there are some imperfections in the primer that I will have to deal with and it feels rough in places but thats not difficult. I will redo the undercoat as well as it seems really thin. Again nothing too difficult to deal with. I will test fit a door when I get back and I will have to drill a bunch of holes for mounting things like the windshield and ambulance doors. He supplied body mounts which was nice of him and I have to fit the tub and then drill holes to mount it. I understand why he did that because these units aren't the straightest vehicles right out of the box. Overall it is very well fabricated, I would think he Mig welds the seams instead of Tig welding for speed, it would have been nice for visual effects but in the end he runs batches of 25 at a time so its production work and he can't waste time.
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- Thread starter
- #329
He supplied a high quality body mount kit and I agree with the dissimilar metals. I will pay close attention to those areas to mitigate electrolysis, and yesI will need a bunch of fasteners, its no wonder I'm so popular at Lordco auto parts lol. Overall she's a beautiful piece to behold and I'm thrilled to own it.
Overall , I like the work he's done , especially most of the original outside details . It's too bad he didn't have the time or ability to duplicate the interior sections as stock - like the trans tunnel and such . I guess in the long run it doesn't matter being stainless - at least it will last and not rust out quickly .
Sarge
Sarge
- Thread starter
- #331
I agree with you sarge, and I was thinking the same about the tunnel cover. I'm really happy with the end product though. I saw an aqualu tub a few days ago and the fitting of the doors and hard top was terrible.
Seeing something like this just leaves me speechless. Imagine the hours that must have gone into creating it. Toyota engineers should be really proud that people are commemorating their designs to this degree decades later.
A couple of considerations:
If you're going to run 33's, you'll probably need fender flares. Do you really want to drill into that body?
The trans tunnel being different means the factory shift boots probably won't work...
A couple of considerations:
If you're going to run 33's, you'll probably need fender flares. Do you really want to drill into that body?
The trans tunnel being different means the factory shift boots probably won't work...
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ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
Good to hear!! I've been fortunate to have met Fabien and visited his shop, the man is a nice down to earth artist. His work is incredible and one must remember his tubs are made soft tops.
- Thread starter
- #335
Racer, I understand. I'll run tall skinny 33x10.5 so they shouldn't stick out too bad. Bushwacker makes a factory looking rear flare that uses double sided tape, so no I won't drill that tub. I'll have to do some test fitting with tires but I know they won't stick out on the front because they are pretty wide compared to the rear well.
- Thread starter
- #336
Yea I'm than happy with what I got and he provides a great product
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Drilling holes in stainless : have a can of cutting fluid or oil spray med speed with drilling, don't let the bit get hot or it will harden the material. Since it's 18 and 16ga you should be ok but I would have spare drill bits and start small. Not sure if you need to tap a tread here or there ?
Cheers
J Mac
Cheers
J Mac
Thank you for the detailed overview! After your posts I also ordered a tub for my bj43 project.
It will be very helpful if you keep us updated regarding required holes (steering column, heater, relays, ventilation doors, windshield, anti roll bar, front and rear seats, dash, glove box, hood, fuse box, jack and tools, safety belts, parking brake and winch, tank, fuel tank door, rear doors, spare tire carries, rear emblems and reflectors)
montage et tuto caisse teseven (officiel) - "TLC SERIE-4 FRANCE"
Restauration complète de mon BJ 42 - Page 12 - "TLC SERIE-4 FRANCE"
It will be very helpful if you keep us updated regarding required holes (steering column, heater, relays, ventilation doors, windshield, anti roll bar, front and rear seats, dash, glove box, hood, fuse box, jack and tools, safety belts, parking brake and winch, tank, fuel tank door, rear doors, spare tire carries, rear emblems and reflectors)
montage et tuto caisse teseven (officiel) - "TLC SERIE-4 FRANCE"
Restauration complète de mon BJ 42 - Page 12 - "TLC SERIE-4 FRANCE"
Stainless nut rivets might be helpful
- Thread starter
- #340
I'll use cobalt drill bits, they work well but are prone to snapping due to the hardness. Not sure if a slow speed hole saw will auger through it or not. I'm going to need larger holes on top for access that will get plastic plugs after. It will be a slow process with lots of measuring. I need to make absolutely sure she's square before I drill, having said that if I screw up I can easily weld stainless holes shut and try again...but it won't come to that.
