BJ40 Starter problems (2 Viewers)

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Not much of a surprise to me since I'm pretty sure I screwed it up somehow. Below are pictures of the replacement parts and the starter post repair. The kit I purchased did not come with new bolts and the contacts were shaped differently, not sure if the shape of the contacts caused a problem. My gut feeling is that when I was trouble shooting all the fuel problems, diesel somehow got into the starter. When I opened it up this time I noticed the smell and residue. I used an electric parts cleaner to degrease. I also used dielectric grease in some spots. After trying to make it crank, the smoke was coming from the wire from the yoke. I immediately tried to remove the battery leads and burnt myself pretty good, it got that hot. What other damage should I look out for?
used_newparts.jpg
post_repair.jpg
 
There has been something that has been puzzling me right from the start Albert.

Near the beginning of this thread it appeared to me that you said that the wire I have "arrowed" here was "wrapped around a cover screw". And then - if I understand you correctly - you say you moved that wire "to its correct position" (where it sits in this photo):

abstarter.jpg

If that is the case, then that wire has been swapped from "being an earth" to "being live (at + 12V)" whenever the starter solenoid closes. (Hasn't it?)

The starter surely can work properly only in ONE of those positions (and not both).

I can see that wire shouldn't be "wrapped around a screw" - but did the starter actually work that way?

:frown::frown: Or where did I go wrong in reading your posts?

PS... I'm probably talking complete rubbish now. ..... But I'm just thinking .... Perhaps that wire is for the "pull-in coil" (because it would act as an earth only untill the solenoid pulls in). And what if the "holding coil" was knacked so the PO wrapped that wire around a screw to energise the "pull-in coil" continuously when the key is in "start". Perhaps in that way, the PO could get the starter to work with only the "pull-in coil" (running the risk of burning out that coil too if he cranks the starter for too long).. ....... Just brain-stormin. I didn't even know there were 2 separate coils until working on this thread so I am really quite ignorant about our starters and I certainly don't recall exactly where that wire goes on my starter.
abstarter.jpg
 
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You're right, that that wire was extended and poking outside the housing and wrapped around a screw. It had been that way for a while because the gasket under the cover has wear showing its location.

I really did not think this through as you are trying to figure out now from my posts, I did a point a shoot. The starter worked before as you say. I guess I should have left it alone and just replaced the contacts. The FSM does not have a view of the inside of this part of the starter like I've shown, I really wish it did. I think I will pay to rebuild the unit, approx $250. I'll probably remove the unit this weekend and ship it to them. I'm now a bit concerned about all the heat put into the wires after my last attempt to get it started. Any ideas as to what I should check before trying to start her up again?
 
Before sending it off to get rebuilt give me a few minutes to take a photo of my spare starter!! That should clear things up.

It looks just like my spare starter inside! The wire that "lostmarbles" has an arrow to is in fact connected correctly as per my spare starter. Pictures will take awhile.
 
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Here's a picture of my spare starter. It is good so the wires are correct. 12v
DSC_3783.JPG
 
Wow, what I notice right away is that the wire from the yoke is very well insulated all the way to the contact. I now see the purpose of the plastic ring held by the contact bolt, it holds the insulation preventing the end of the contact from being exposed. On my starter both contacts are exposed and the plastic rings are broken. I can see how oil, and diesel dripping on these parts can cause a short or damage over time. My first attempt to isolate this wire only used a bit of electrical tape and that really is not the proper use for the tape. I think Ill call the repair shop and see if they include the proper insulation and plastic holders to prevent this in the future. Thanks for the picture.
 
Did you check with Toyota re getting a rebuilt starter from them? I bought a starter (24V) from the nearest dealer in Jan '07 for less than $300 Canadian with core exchange, it was less than after-market price for same item. I usually start with Toyota when I need something, so often the aftermarket part is Toyota OEM with of course the after-market vendor's mark-up added to it.
 
I have not checked with Toyota. I would need a part number if you have one. The local dealers don't know what a BJ is. I recently purchased 5 new wheels from the dealer and I had to be very careful with whom I spoke with. One local dealer wanted as much as $80 more per wheel than the one I purchased from. Do you know of a complete rebuild kit out there? There are a few shops in the area that could possibly do the work but don't want to waste time sourcing the parts.My options now are;cruiserparts-250 flate ratetoyota-find someone who can helplocal-supply local guy with complete rebuild kit if available and try to spend less than 250
 
Don't have p/n at the moment, will try to remember to look for it this evening.

Sorry, I forgot yours is 12V and my is 24V, so part no. is different.

Does anybody know if the 12V starter for the B engine is the same as the 12V geared starter for the 2F engine? Even if the starter is different, does the motor use the same rebuild parts?
 
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Reading this thread about starters in B and 3B engines I have a B and my Starter is very different on my B , It is not a gear reduction starter its a regular one and it doesn't work at all . So my question will the later starter work in the B engine?
 
When I bought the BJ42 drivetrain to install in my '79 BJ40 it was 12V, very rare here in Canada, I think, so I took all the electrical stuff (starter, alternator, EDIC motor, etc.) from my B engine and bolted it up to the 3B engine, no problems.
 
79fj40moneypit said:
Reading this thread about starters in B and 3B engines I have a B and my Starter is very different on my B , It is not a gear reduction starter its a regular one and it doesn't work at all . So my question will the later starter work in the B engine?
Click to expand...

I'm no expert on starters but I have always imagined that the high compression of the cruiser diesel engine meant it HAD to use a gear reduction starter (compared to the petrol engines which didn't).

I can't recall seeing a BJ40 or BJ42 with the standard (without gearing) type.

How about a photo of what you've got there?

:cheers:
 
I brought it to Jim Woods elec.before I posted up here to have him look at it, but after reading this I may give him a call and tell him to hold off and look for the other style. I will take a pic after I get it back from him.


Edit: If someone has the part# to the starter could it please be posted thanks
 
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79fj40moneypit said:
I brought it to Jim Woods elec.before I posted up here to have him look at it, but after reading this I may give him a call and tell him to hold off and look for the other style. I will take a pic after I get it back from him.


Edit: If someone has the part# to the starter could it please be posted thanks
Click to expand...

Hi there 79fj40moneypit.

My 1979 12V BJ40 (B-engine) has a 2.5kW gear-reduction starter having part number 28100-56080 (now substituted by part number 28100-56081).

Joe Egolf's 1981 12V BJ42 (3B-engine) and has the very same starter.

What is interesting (for me) is that I understand some early (earlier than 1979) 12V BJ40 cruisers were manufactured with starters that don't have any gear-reduction (- part number 28100-56020 subs 28100-56021). And incidentally, this starter is rated at only 1.8 kilowatt compared to my 2.5kW gear-reduction one.

Another interesting thing is that Joe's and my starter motors are used on vehicles "WITH edic". (And that those without EDIC may use a different starter - I wonder why?)

No doubt you now want to know if you can substitute the more-powerful (and no-doubt "better-suited") gear-reduction starter to your engine. - Well at this point - I don't know. (Perhaps you could start a new thread asking this question.)

:cheers:
 
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Thanks for the part numbers, of course they mean nothing to the parts guys at napa,advance,auto zone,united auto etc. and the repair place drew a blank. so I guess I'll fix the old starter Anyone ever buy a starter at napa? they gave me a starter for a bj60 that was the same # as the 2F starter I didn't take it it was a bosch.

EDIT I may have found a guy that sells starters for toyota forklifts I gave him the part#s guess I'll wait now
 
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I found out that the starter in my "B" diesel is from a isuzu industrial engine. Not the right starter but it worked, those mechcanics in south amercia sure improvised to get the engine to start!! But on a better note I located a toyota reman starter the engine.
 
albert rodrigues said:
I have not sent mine to Cruiserparts yet and would like to maybe keep mine as a spare.
Click to expand...

If you want to keep yours just forfeit the core charge and keep it!! I have a spare altenator, starter and water pump just in case. I can rebuild the old one at my leisure.
 
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