BJ40 project from COSTA RICA (1 Viewer)

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After a 45 mins turbo was mounted on Flanger manifold
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Oil feed line and oil return connected
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to regulate turbo lbs, We did this, to avoid using a boost controller and also be abusing of turbo lbs :bang:
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since Im not using a wastegate, I used a T to connect boost gauge
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temp, oil and boost gauge on black
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Great looking rig!! Costa Rica is on my list of places to visit. Everything I have seen about the country makes it look amazing. Now this 40 as well! Definitely need to visit.
Thank you bud, CR is a nice place to visit and live, and is a land cruiser paradise. most of land cruisers imported in US are from Venezuela, Colombia and COSTA RICA.

feel free to come when ever you can.

Regards
 
I went out to do first run and check for oil leaks or diesel adjustment, so first run was at 5psi


After 1st run I notice

1-turbo LBS was to slow
2-Diesel adjustment was needed
3- the most important things NO LEAKS

The difference was incredible noticeable, 1st run was climbing since I live in the Mountains so before turbo I climbed on 2nd gear, and now at 5psi on 3rd gear.

I adjusted Diesel delivery and also checked that Turbo wastegate was kinda open and not working as should.

Now is running at 9psi
 
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since everything was working good I went to the muffler shop and install a new 2.5 pipe with flex after turbo downpipe
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this is the final pic with OEM air filter.

Next things is to paint Valve cover with black Wrinkle pain and put 3b engine decal on it, maybe snorkel but not sure yet since I dont want to cut body but I will consider for later.

so far 40 just feel good and there is a big improvement on diesel consumption and speed taking in consideration that my 40 climb every single day couple times.
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Im thinking on pyrometer gauge I read on other thread that was an useful gauge but to be honest dont know how this works, maybe If someone can give more information Would be very appreciated.
 
An EGT gauge (exhaust gas temperature, or pyrometer) is indispensable on a diesel motor. It works with a sensor placed in the exhaust flow, usually just before the turbo. The sensor reads the exhaust temperature going into the turbo and shows that temperature on a gauge. This will help you know the temperature inside the motor (pistons, valves, etc) and help you decide if you can add more fuel, or if you need to reduce the amount of fuel. With a little experience reading the gauge, and others experience interpreting the temperatures, you can tell a lot about your motor, and the amount of fuel being injected. An EGT probe can be placed after the turbo, but it is not as accurate as before the turbo.

Putting the probe into the exhaust manifold means drilling and tapping threads into the manifold, and possible metal shavings in the turbo. BUT, there is a way to drill and tap without removing the manifold, which is what I did on my 94 Chev pickup. I started with a cold motor/exhaust manifold. I selected where I wanted to drill, and started the process of drilling. The next step requires a bit of guessing, but when I thought I was about to break through to the inside of the manifold I stopped. I put some grease on the end of the drill bit, started the motor, finished the drilling, and immediately shut the motor off. With the motor running the exhaust manifold is pressurized, blowing the metal particles out past the drill bit. The grease also helps trap any metal particles the may not be blown out.

The next step is tapping for threads, and the motor must be running for that also. Load up the tap with grease, start the motor, and start the threading process. The same exhaust pressure and grease will do the same as when drilling. This process is what I used on my pickup, successfully.

Don
 
An EGT gauge (exhaust gas temperature, or pyrometer) is indispensable on a diesel motor. It works with a sensor placed in the exhaust flow, usually just before the turbo. The sensor reads the exhaust temperature going into the turbo and shows that temperature on a gauge. This will help you know the temperature inside the motor (pistons, valves, etc) and help you decide if you can add more fuel, or if you need to reduce the amount of fuel. With a little experience reading the gauge, and others experience interpreting the temperatures, you can tell a lot about your motor, and the amount of fuel being injected. An EGT probe can be placed after the turbo, but it is not as accurate as before the turbo.

Putting the probe into the exhaust manifold means drilling and tapping threads into the manifold, and possible metal shavings in the turbo. BUT, there is a way to drill and tap without removing the manifold, which is what I did on my 94 Chev pickup. I started with a cold motor/exhaust manifold. I selected where I wanted to drill, and started the process of drilling. The next step requires a bit of guessing, but when I thought I was about to break through to the inside of the manifold I stopped. I put some grease on the end of the drill bit, started the motor, finished the drilling, and immediately shut the motor off. With the motor running the exhaust manifold is pressurized, blowing the metal particles out past the drill bit. The grease also helps trap any metal particles the may not be blown out.

The next step is tapping for threads, and the motor must be running for that also. Load up the tap with grease, start the motor, and start the threading process. The same exhaust pressure and grease will do the same as when drilling. This process is what I used on my pickup, successfully.

Don
thank you so much for your information, definitely I will consider this gauge as a priority.

So far Im not sure about how much fuel my engine has, its not smoking so much whats makes me think is ok but what happens if I open more the fuel pump? its going to damage something?

I saw a few videos on youtube of land cruisers smoking a lot more than mine so not sure about cons how ever I know this will impact on more power and affect mileage but dont know about pistons valves etc..
 
That valve cover along with the turbo looks really clean! Reminds me I need to adjust my valves as well lol
 
Yesterday worked on injectors, I disassembly everything step by step as the workshop manual mention, using wood sticks and diesel.

There is so much things accumulated in the nozzle (rust and who knows what else)

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here is a comparison between one already cleaned and the dirty one
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