Biscuit's 2013 Projects Thread

[Spike Strip]

Ok, Mike, thanks - I'm sold... If it's good enough for a Rocket Scientist ...

Sorry for all the pestery Q's but did you have to buy anything else for the install besides the gauge mount and a bung ?

 

[Biscuit]

did you have to buy anything else for the install besides the gauge mount and a bung ?

Just the gauge mount. Autometer includes a bung and a plug in the kit. Make sure the bung is installed correctly. There is a shoulder on it and it is designed to have the smaller diameter portion sit inside the hole cut in the exhaust pipe. Mine was installed backwards and required a little dremel grinding of the exhaust pipe that overlapped the inside diameter the bung.

 

[Spike Strip]

Awesome.... Owe ya a beer, or a Coke or some diesel for the Jetta!

 

[Biscuit]

Removed the passenger side hardtop window as part of the install of sliding BJ42LX side windows. The side window hasn't been installed as I am still figuring out exactly how to. I have the exterior weather stripping, but is seems there should be an interior weather stripping or trim piece that mechanically holds the window in place.

I need to find an exploded parts diagram for the sliding windows or a FSM description of how to remove them.

 

[Biscuit]

I've decided to completely refresh both of the LX sliding windows. I've ordered new felt coated rubber channel for the windows to slide in as well as some metal core wind lace to help hold the window in place and provide interior trim.

I'm debating getting all the hard top windows tinted to help further reduce interior temps during the summer. I figure now would be the time while the glass is out of the LX windows.

 

[Chamba]

Removed the passenger side hardtop window as part of the install of sliding BJ42LX side windows. The side window hasn't been installed as I am still figuring out exactly how to. I have the exterior weather stripping, but is seems there should be an interior weather stripping or trim piece that mechanically holds the window in place.

I need to find an exploded parts diagram for the sliding windows or a FSM description of how to remove them.

They simply glue in using the same tarry goop that modern windscreens use. Then you have black pinch moulding which presses on over the lips of the roof and window. The external rubber trim serves no practical purpose. It's just there for esthetics.

 

[Biscuit]

While I wait for the new window runs to arrive via UPS, I decided to pull the glass and clean up the sliding window frames.

After a good cleaning and some wet sanding they are ready for paint (I may go over the exterior one more time with 1600 grit).




Now there is the question of what color to paint the frames. OEM for the frames appears to be similar to the pewter/ash grey metallic that is used on the 40s. The PPO of these had painted them back while on the truck.

I'm thinking of simply going with a semi gloss black. That way the frames will blend in with the exterior weather stripping. I also have rattle cans that are an exact match to the dune beige-ish color of my truck, but I think that would look odd with the black weather strip.

I also went had had the sliding windows tinted. The reduction in light making it into the the cab as well as the flow through ventilation should make the summer driving season a little cooler. I'll have the corners and rear hatch glass tinted with the same film at some point.

 

[Biscuit]

I decided to paint the frames semi-gloss black. I really like the way they turned out. The semi-gloss black should be about the same gloss level as the exterior weather strip.





The replacement window runs should be here tomorrow. And that is the project for a few nights this week.

 

[Chamba]

I decided to paint the frames semi-gloss black. I really like the way they turned out. The semi-gloss black should be about the same gloss level as the exterior weather strip.

The replacement window runs should be here tomorrow. And that is the project for a few nights this week.

I had mine powder coated just so I'd never have a problem again. Looking forward to your thoughts on the felt channels.

 

[Biscuit]

Well I was going to install the LX sliding windows yesterday only to find that I don't have enough contact surface between the window fram and the flange on the hardtop side. My guess is the cut out for the side windows had a slightly wider flange for the LX.

This is odd considering the research I did prior to buying these windows showed that the LX sliding windows could fit hard tops with the rear kick window if the vertical bar was removed and that the side glass from from I think post-72 could also fit in the hard tops with the kick window if the vertical bar was removed. This appears to not be the case.

I also appears that my initial checking of if the windows frame would alight right was erroneous.

I think I have two options:

1) Sell the LX sliding windows now that I have them cleaned up, painted, new runs installed, and the glass tinted. Possibly put in the SOR sliding windows that I know work.

2) Get someone to CNC cut on a water jet or the like some 1/16" or 1/8" sheet to act as an adapter between the hard top and the window frame. This adapter would not be visible as it would be covered by windlace once finished. I can draw this up in SolidWorks pretty easily. This adapter would be glued into place much like the window. I'm not sure if I like the adhesive mounting of the whole idea.

This is all a question of time and cost.

Either way the solid OEM side glass is back in place before the rain today so the rig is at least weather resistant.

 

[Biscuit]

So long text update.


Carb:
First off, if you haven't read Ed Cook's carb description in the Tech Links (http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/carbinfo.php) you should.

I've been working on trying to identify the lean condition I am experiencing. Based on driving with one eye on the AFR gauge I think I have a course of action. My hot idle mixture is lean, so I can fix that with a screwdriver.

I still require some choke to run near stoichiometric while on the primary circuit. This seems to indicate that I need to change the air corrector jets to enrich this mixture. If I understand everything correctly, this requires smaller jets to reduce the air flow. It may also require a larger main jet.

Even with the partial choke, once the secondary opens it gets very lean >=18:1. First thing to do is spray down the secondary barrel with carb cleaner and see if is just some gunk. This will require a larger main jet and possibly a smaller air corrector.

The accelerator pump seems to be doing it's job. When I floor it, the AFR goes rich ~12.5:1 which is expected. I still need to try some WOT to see what the AFR is for a non-transient WOT.


Sliding Windows:
I've decided to keep the BJ42LX sliding windows and have an adapter made out of 16ga steel sheet. I will need to decided if I want to have the adapter welded to the frames or just adhere it using windshield adhesive.

I've drawn up the adapter and will be getting it cut soon.


Transmission/T-Case:
I've located a 4-speed transmission mated to an older 3-speed vacuum t-case, I'm going to pick it up this weekend. I'll need to track down a 4 speed nose cone or swap in the gear for the vacuum shift. I think the 4 speed nose cone will be easier.

Of course I'll still need a 4 speed bell housing to make this all work. I plan on keeping the 3-speed flywheel and clutch.


New Issues:
It seems I have a very slight drip from my rear diff cover (at least based on spots on the driveway). I'm going to clean up the diff with some simple green this weekend and see where oil may appear. May just need a new gasket or drain plug seal.

 

[Biscuit]

Picked up the H42 with early vacuum t-case from toysfreak on Saturday. Now to track down the few remaining linkage bits I need to make it fully lever shift and a 4 speed bell housing.



I'm going to rebuild the ebrake prior to install.

Now for the big debate, drop the back of the engine or cut and reposition the crossmember.

 

[cruiserjunkie]

Fighting the cross member more than once is reason enough to move it.

 

[Biscuit]

I'm leaning towards cutting it and moving it. Though since my truck is a 10/73 manufacture, I may get lucky and already have a frame set up for the 4-speed. But knowing my luck that won't be the case.

 

[Biscuit]

Crawled under the 40 today, and the cross member seems to be pretty far aft of the ebrake with the 3-speed that's currently in it.



Can any of the experts chime in as to if this cross member is in the 3 or 4 speed position?

Also removed the e-brake from the new transmission. I'll need to keep my old backing plate at a minimum since the ebrake cable passageway on this one is toast. Not a big deal as rebuilding the ebrake was on the must do list.

 

[Biscuit]

I futzed with the 4speed transmission for 45 minutes or so tonight. Discovered that it doesn't seem to like neutral. I'm still geting rotation of the tail shaft if I turn the input shaft when it should be in neutral. I verified that I can shift into all gears and they appear to be doing what they are supposed to, but still have output shaft rotation when the shift lever would be in the neutral postion. I'm going to have to sort that one out.

I'll need to do some searching to figure out what the culprit may be.


I'm going to need to at least pull the nosecone off the t-case. The front drive clutch has slipped forward to ride the smooth part of the front drive output shaft. I'm going to need to remove the bolts from the nosecone anyways since I will be installing a nose cone saver.

I'm going to pull the output bearing housing to check that the speedometer output is in good order and possibly do the double seal mod.

I'm contemplating separating the transmission and t-case to clean them up, possibly replace the seal between them, and put in a new gasket. The goal here is to minimize oil leaks for at least a little while.

 

[Biscuit]

Did some more investigation on the dragging in neutral and it is definitely something dragging but not fully engaged in the transmission. I can hold the output shaft stationary and rotate the input shaft with little resistance.



I also mocked up the t-case linkage parts I have. I may need to go back to the transition case linkage instead of the later one piece case linkage.

 

[Spike Strip]

.
Mike, here's what a 74 w/ 4spd looks like.... Dunno if this helps.
.

 

[Biscuit]

Thanks Alf.

They look pretty similar. Note the position of the cross member relative to the access hole in the frame behind it.

II may need to have our 40s side by side to be sure.

 

[Biscuit]

Well not surprisingly I've hit a cruiser crisis point in these series of projects. Basically, the "is it worth it?" thought.

I have a love hat relationship with my truck.

I like tinkering and doing upgrades, but it has gotten to the point that any free time I have for the truck is used to try and keep it running right instead of driving it. At best it gets driven one day a week. It hasn't been off pavement for more than 18 months. Since the new engine was installed in late 2004, I have had it off road 5 times and only driven it less than 7000 miles. But during that time I have put in a full cage, had the front axle rebuilt, swapped carbs from a Weber to a Aisan, and put on 33x9.5s. I've amasses parts for a rewire, sliding windows, and H42 swap.

While I like working on the truck and projects, Im not sure it's worth it anymore. I have at least three reliability/drivability projects I need to tackle soon due to recently identified issues. They are minor, but still it's more time trying to get a truck that has never run right to run right, which I'm not sure is possible with this truck.

So the big projects are on hold until I can figure out where I stand with my FJ40.