Birfield axle separation

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petescoffee

petescoffee

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The drivers side separated easily but I can not seem to get the axle separated from the birfield on the passenger side. The clip is removed. Any secrets, ideas or tricks?
Thanks,
Petescoffee
1975 FJ40 with a Mini truck disc brake converstion
 
73lndcrsr

73lndcrsr

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I like the schedule 40 pipe method. Get 2" pipe longer than the shaft you want to separate and hold the birf on the end of the pipe. Drop it on a piece of wood to reduce the noise and keep the axle from dropping on the concrete.


I hope this is clear.
 
woody

woody

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set pipe on wood on floor....insert inner shaft....raise up, then SLAM down....3-4 times of this and the inner clip will shear and the shaft will drop out. IIRC, a 1.5" ID pipe is just about right for birf separation.
 
bad_religion_au

bad_religion_au

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is that an officially documented toyota method, or is the pipe "toyota special tool part number 5554004950430-232324x 1973 passenger side birfield separator"

:)
 
woody

woody

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I am an unauthorized reseller of said non-existent SST products....the tool number you provided doesn't sound correct, but may be...

IIRC, retail is $624.93 each, they are 14 weeks on delivery, and require truck freight. I suggest an alternate quote from C-Dan, I'll beat his price on this tool by at least $0.12 and will gouge you instead on next day air international truck freight.

:D
 
C

cruiserman

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I never could get the pipe trick to work. I ended up deforming the pipe. 2 whacks with the BFH on the birfield in a vice were all it took.
 
T

Trevor

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I was having problems with the pipe method also, until SpaceGhost told me to hit it like a man. After cracking the apartment's parking lot in several places, it finally broke. The moral of the story: If you're not punching holes through the concrete, you're not hitting it hard enough!
 
theferg

theferg

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Killin' me Woody!

laughingleprochaun.gif
 
theferg

theferg

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[quote author=Trevor link=board=1;threadid=6696;start=msg54955#msg54955 date=1067021953]
I was having problems with the pipe method also, until SpaceGhost told me to hit it like a man. After cracking the apartment's parking lot in several places, it finally broke. The moral of the story: If you're not punching holes through the concrete, you're not hitting it hard enough!
[/quote]

Yep. Me too.
 
petescoffee

petescoffee

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Woody-
The method worked great. :cheers: Took 5 wacks. The first 2 were where sissy wacks though. ::)
 
woody

woody

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[quote author=petescoffee link=board=1;threadid=6696;start=msg55172#msg55172 date=1067045137]
Woody-
The method worked great. :cheers: Took 5 wacks. The first 2 were where sissy wacks though. ::)
[/quote]

awesome....that'll be $624.13 please :D
 
R

rick_d

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I first saw Marlin do this, and since I bought the tool and a tub of vasoline from woody the trick has always worked. I omit the wood step and ofte in junk yards where I am robbing mini stuff (and don't want inner axles) I find an engine block to slam down on. I have never taken more than 3 wacks on concrete or steel to get the birfiled apart. You want a pipe with OD smaller than the cage to support the bearings (and this is black PIPE not tube). Make sure the pipe is 2-3" longer than an 80 series axle (or 60) as Woody's was 2" shorter than the short side and is tough to work with.
 
BionicCruiser

BionicCruiser

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a buddy showed me that method too. only he had the super deluxe breakdown model. he had 1-2 foot sections of pipe w/ threads on each end and double female connectors. for the birfield end was a flange the made a nice flat area for the birf to hit.

connect however many sections to make the tool longer than the axle shaft. when done, break it down and store it with the recovery gear.
 

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