AltFuel biodiesel/wvo and fuel lines ..req replacement?

[haryv]

Hi all,

One of my dreams back in 1999 was to buy a diesel truck/car after considerable consideration of all models and pricing was lucky enough to pickup a used 84 hj-60 wagon. I have made small batches of bio but will make more for this vehicle. I want to know if the rubber o-rings and rubber hoses need to be replaced ? I know the left over methenol in bio can ruin these parts.

Other questions need to know.

-The tranny has some noise and is a little louder under load in 5th gear. I heard
redline synthetic is great stuff for the tranny and diff?

- The engine has 378km on the odo. Want to do a engine flush to remove old
deposits. While the owner has done his regular oil replacments he has never done this before. Is it recomended this is to be done on this wagon? It burns oil for the first 5-10 seconds in the morning. I suspect that is the valve seals that are aged.

- lastly, the rust starting on the wheel weels. it has started to eat holes near the 9oclock position. What agent can nutrulize the rust and at the same time plug the holes and create a barrier to prevent water from getting into the cavity?

Your help is much appriciated.

 

[Diescipel]

Merry Christmas and congrats on the HJ60. Welcome to MUD you've come to the right place.

I hear two philosophies about BioD and fuel lines-- either replace all with Viton or just run the BioD until you get a leak and then replace. Good link to fuel line replacement for an HJ60 is http://www.longnow.org/rhino/BioDiesel.htm . I've never heard of O-ring problems (but I haven't heard everything), but I have heard that the fuel filler neck will also get destroyed by bioD so don't forget it if you are replacing things.

RE: tranny. The techies here will say something about that noise, but I swear by Redline--though not to cure noise problems (never had one...). The one thing it will do in tired trannies like ours is help the tired syncros spin things up better, thus making shifting smoother. I have yet to put it in my BJ42 (whose H55F tranny at over 400k kms is working very well), but I used it in an old Porsche 944 I had and it worked like magic.

RE: rust. The only sure way to cure it is to cut it out and replace with new metal. Shorter term fix would be to knock all the loose rust off, wire wheel the hell out of it, then put coats of POR 15, RustBullet, or other anti-rust paint/product on it. The problem is that the next step to get the body looking good would be to bondo the holes, which retains moisture against the metal and ends up causing more problems... If you're serious about keeping it for a long time, there are some replacement body parts out there, both steel and fiberglass. Can't remember where you can get the steel, but the fiberglass option is best addressed by http://www.gozzardcomposites.com/60series.html . See this current thread here if you want to really know what this entails (though on a 70 series): https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=59847

HTHs
B

 

[brownbear]

Hey Haryv, welcome to mud!, glad you came over from the BC 4x4 site.

This place is great for info on your cruiser.

Do you know where your cruiser came from? Is it a Canadian model? I thought in 1984 we only had BJ60's. The difference being the Bj is a 4 cylinder diesel and HJ is 6 cyl. But I did not think Canada got the HJ in 84. But I could be wrong.

Search on here a bit about the wheel wells. Your series is a 60, so check out the 60/62 forum for ideas.
Cool Cruisers of Texas offer the best choice for the rear wheel wells, they are a perfect weld in replacement. They take 6 weeks plus to order, thats why I went with the ones from 4Wheel auto in Edmonton(but the lines were poor on them). I made them work tho.

I mig welded in my ones.

For rust I like light sandblasting, and then use a paint called POR-15. it seals it so it nevers rusts again(so they say).

Open your interior panels on the sides in the back, they are snap on panels. Shine a light in towards the well wheels, you will see the rust. Very common, spray a crap load of LPS oil or rust check in there on the rust, it will slow it down till you can fix it.

5-10 seconds of smoke on start up is normal. Its just excess diesel buring off. They do that, even new VW TDI's.

My first suggestion is to search lots, most of the time we have discussed many of the problems already. But asking is no problem.

Again welcome to mud, the international crowd is a fun one. We like to help each other the best we can.

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

Welcome to the world of 84 HJ60s, I have one as well! where are you located? I( have learned lots fixing mine up, pm me if you need any help.
cheers,
Jan

 

[stasis1]

Haryv wat did you use as a basr for the BioD? Used cooking oil? Where did you get the know how? Imvery interested in doing BioD to run my cars with and possibly tractors as well.
Diescipel, i called my dealer the other day about this. You know how all the rich nations are adopting BioD? Europe has already invested heavily in it. EU will soon have between 5-10%mix of BioD and PetroD. The french now have 3-5%mix of the Biod into the PetroD sold nationally. All the old diesel engine were designed to take in High sulphur Diesel cos of the seals in the injectors. It needed the sulphur in the diesel fuel to lubricate the seals. Now if we run it on low sulphur fuel or bioD the seals will be #$%ed. Dont know the time frame running on low sulphut or BioD before the seals cracks. If we change the seals to the Viticon based seals. On the other hand viticon seal used with high sulphur fuel will corrode as well.
I hope im accurate enough fpr you guys

 

[Eric Winkworth]

using a fuel addtive will help some of the issues, won't it?

 

[Diescipel]

Haryv wat did you use as a basr for the BioD? Used cooking oil? Where did you get the know how? Imvery interested in doing BioD to run my cars with and possibly tractors as well.
Diescipel, i called my dealer the other day about this. You know how all the rich nations are adopting BioD? Europe has already invested heavily in it. EU will soon have between 5-10%mix of BioD and PetroD. The french now have 3-5%mix of the Biod into the PetroD sold nationally. All the old diesel engine were designed to take in High sulphur Diesel cos of the seals in the injectors. It needed the sulphur in the diesel fuel to lubricate the seals. Now if we run it on low sulphur fuel or bioD the seals will be #$%ed. Dont know the time frame running on low sulphut or BioD before the seals cracks. If we change the seals to the Viticon based seals. On the other hand viticon seal used with high sulphur fuel will corrode as well.
I hope im accurate enough fpr you guys

If you haven't seen it, check the BioD thread started by Jim Phillips---best concentration of BioD info on MUD. https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=17110

Also, the links above to Zander's page are pretty useful.

Yes, you're right about the low sulphur--in the US, we will have the new fuel starting this summer and mandatory by Sept. 2006. I was vaguely aware of the Euro use of BioD and yes you are absolutely correct that the BioD makes up for the lost lubricity of the sulphur, not just in the injector seals but also in the all important heart of our diesels, the injector pump.

I run 20% BioD right now mainly for the lubricity benefits, and reduced emissions yada yada. I've either been too busy or too poor to change out the fuel lines, so I'm kinda chicken to run a higher % until I do. It's also winter and while the Norcal coast isn't too cold, people run less than 50% here to prevent gelling.

Stasis--you should consider a dual fuel set up with veggie oil for your BJ42. Since it's so warm where you are it will be very easy to liquify it, maybe with just a heated filter. There are plenty of aftermarket auxiliary fuel tanks for the 40 series so you could have your main tank running bio/petrol D, and the aux. tank with the veggie oil (this is my long term plan). Maybe you could trade some wine to another farmer who grows a crop for the oil-- a little tax free fuel

www.greasecar.com

HTH
B

 

[stasis1]

ooohhhhh never thaught of that one b4 on the trade in with farmer to get tax free fuel. i actually share famr with a local guy on canola crop last season. But i think is still cheaper to run on BioD. But the BioD has to be from used cooking oil though. Is cheaper bas material. You can get used cooking oil in a 44 gal. drumfrom a local Fish and chips shop. I asked around the other day in the local Fish and chips shop a drum 44 gal a guy that comes around every 1-2 mths to pick up the drums. Each drumsfilled with the used cooking oil he will get roughly AU$50/44gal drum.
Sorry for being so calculative about these kind of things. Im a purchasing officer as well for my company. Personally i think for my self im asian and my wife does a lot of chinese cookings deeo fryETC. I will save up the cooking oil and mix it with the used cooking oil from the fish and chip shop ($50/44gal drum) and process a couple of drums each time to make the mess worth worth it.
My next step is to get a hold of information on how to make BioD from used cooking oil. My time is very limited to spend it on my own cos of my work and family. But i think i can spare a day or 2 days out of a month to manufacture the BioD.
Wat do you think?
It get cols too over here so i think i will stay with the mix of Biod and petrobasedD. BTW mercs recommends only 10% Max for the mix.
Also just to let you know the cheapest form of Veg oil. You heard of Palm cooking oil? That the cheapest cooking oil on a /ltr cost. On retail level a 2x filterd in a 2ltr pakaging is rougly about U$1.20 in Indonesia

 

[Diescipel]

Sounds like a good plan. Google searches will bring up full detailed descriptions of how to make BioD. If you have a source for the oil and you have the space to make it, and you have some $$$ to invest, I think you will end up saving a lot of $$$$$ over time on your fuel and maintenance costs since you have so many vehicles that can use it.

 

[stasis1]

yea just trying to do abit od recycling thats all and the satisfaction. read the article abt the biod have to checkout the site and buy the smallest capacity after experimenting. stopped buy the local fish and chips shop and they say they just tipped them in the bins. Si u said in a couple of mths can the save the used oil? I havent brought the subject up for how much though. Frrl bad if i rip them off. We will see will do more research based on the used cooking oil for the BioD. Deciepel you should contact your local fish and chip shop as well for their used cooking oil

 

[haryv]

wow nice reply, I have not been here in a few days.

Hi guys,

Yea I was mistaken about my vehicle. It is a BJ-60 series wagon with the 3.4 liter 4 cylinder engine. It does not look that big for being a 4 cylinder. Is it because it has a long stroke? Every day I am learning more about it. It is a import to canada and now I am the second owner.I just got some engine oil the other day was pretty suprised how much it takes.
I have some ATF but wont put it in if there is some objections here. If more then one person here says its safe to run it for 5 min at idle then I will.

I I modify this vehicle to run bio then will be putting in a second tank for bio. I hear rapseed oil wvo is best? I might take the spare tire that is under neath and mount it on a swing arm that is mounted to the bottom right corner of the bumper? the tire rack that pivots on the side of the vehicle. Is there one already made? Then in the placed where the spare tire was mounted may have a custom made WVO tank made. Somone sugested puting the tank on the top. Bad idea. That makes the vehicle more unstable and I could crash into a over head gate for underground parking. I am a little concerned about particles in the wvo. Putting in a ractor filter before or after the tank a good idea?
Im So glad that this will be a reliable vehicle. Last owner showed me all the records and it looks like nothing major was done. Just the parts and labor are expensive.
My only gripe is the insurance. Paying ALOT more per month then my 88 honda. Ohh well guess fun comes at a price.

Wife misplaced the camera so when its found, will show pictures of it. Vehicle color is brown FYI



Harryv

 

[brownbear]

I have heard pouring ATF in the fuel tank is bad, can loosen up crap and it will go down into the lines, possibly pluging things up.

I have asked about what is the best method to keep a WVO tank for Canada, cold weather etc, and an internal tank is recommended. Otherwise could be hard to heat I am told.

using the search tools you can find loads of info. The WVO has been discussed lots. Also read in the FAQ at the top of the page. Notice it is a sticky. So its always the thread at the top.

 

[Diescipel]

Frrl bad if i rip them off.

You're doing them and the environment a favor. What you should watch out for is other people who want to do the same, then there might be some competition for that used oil.

Deciepel you should contact your local fish and chip shop as well for their used cooking oil

LOL, I'm in California, so no 'fish and chip' shops, but yes we have our McDonalds etc. that have a lot of waste oil. HOwever, around here most of the waste oil is already spoken for by business that are making bioD for the public or are making it to run in their fleet vehicles.

I have some ATF but wont put it in if there is some objections here. If more then one person here says its safe to run it for 5 min at idle then I will.

No sure I understand this--are you going to put it in the engine oil or the fuel tank? What BB says about ATF in the fuel tank is true also of BioD--you have to change your fuel filter a few times after you start using it because it flushes out all the petrol buildup (a good thing!). I have used ATF in the engine oil in a Porsche 944 to loosen a stuck lifter, but the LC valvetrain is a different beast... never used it as a preventative.

I might take the spare tire that is under neath and mount it on a swing arm that is mounted to the bottom right corner of the bumper? the tire rack that pivots on the side of the vehicle. Is there one already made?

I think there are several aftermarket bumper spare tire carriers out there, but here's one: http://www.man-a-fre.com/parts_accessories/kaymarrear60series.htm

This is a very good plan.

I am a little concerned about particles in the wvo. Putting in a ractor filter before or after the tank a good idea?

Yep, think multistage filtering. There was a thread on here about installing multiple filters in the fuel line but I couldn't find it. With the multistage idea, make sure the WVO is well filtered to begin with, and then have a XX micron (large particle filter) near the tank, maybe another smaller micron filter closer to the engine. Use the OEM fuel filter too of course, but you should also consider a heated filter for the WVO. It needs to be hot to atomize properly.

Im So glad that this will be a reliable vehicle. Last owner showed me all the records and it looks like nothing major was done. Just the parts and labor are expensive.

Yep, it's a cruiser, not a chevy. Just imagine how much cheaper the labor is when you do it yourself!


B

 

[haryv]

Pour ATF in engine to lossen carbon.

Im not sure where the idea of pouring ATF in the fuel tank came from but interesting never less. My original post was about pouring ATF in the engine. That would take out all the carbon and extend the engine life. It would also hopfully take carbon out of the ring lands of the pistons and increace compression and reduce oil consumption. I dont know if anyone here has done this yet. I would like to see somone one here do it if thay are about to do a engine tear down and rebuild anyway. I would like to see that person to a before and after oil pressure check and engine cylinder compression check. If I had $$$ I would do the same and even use a boroscope and take a before and after pictures of the inside of the cylinder. I would even take engine oil samples and send them to a oil analasys lab for testing. I used to do that as a normal part of 100 hour inspection requirments for my GE T-58-5-100 Jet engines for my helicopter I was a crew chief on in the USAF.

Anyone here also work as a diesel mechanic? Would like to hear from you personally. Want to ask some specific diesel releated questions so please feel free to message me.

Harryvv

 

[brownbear]

where are you thinking of pouring it into?

It has been accepted sorta to pour a liter into the oil 100kms before the oil change to help clean things out.

That shouldn't hurt. Infact many here have encouraged it.

But if you thinking of pouring it into the intake or something while running, I would stay away from that. IMOP.

But go ahead and put the atf into the oil, but just before an oil change. 100km should be sufficent to geter clean.

Something you should search on here is Pyrometers, to measure the EGT- that is an important thing. Being an older engine, its been hot many times, but installing the pyro will alow you to tune the fuel to get the maximum with out going over temp.

But thats off topic.

 

[crushers]

there is a couple guys here in Calgary that run a litre of ATF with each tank of fuel...
seems to work fine since they have been doing it since new...
i guess it is supposed to help lubricate the pump... i have not done this to the fuel but i have in the engine oil...
cheers

 

[stasis1]

Well diescipel i sued to live in california for 5 yrs diong my studies there. ERRR IN/OUT burgers!!!!! yea i know what you mean though how about a small local chinese restaurant they would have quite a far bit though. Or small asian reastaurant too small for the big guys to even bother like my local fish and chips shop.

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

Sorry I haven't had the time to read all the responses yet.. For what its worth I have fun a lot of biodiesel and have not had any issues at all in either car, the cruiser or the '83 Benz with 340K and original rubber lines. I think its a big myth that got blown out of proportion via that thar intarweb which happens a lot.. That said I'm sure it happens but I doubt it's 'required' right off the bat IMO..

 

[stasis1]

DCS are you running 100%of Biod? or mixture? You manufacture ur own?

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

all of the above..