Glad it could help. I will tell my wife that's good enough justification for keeping 2 200s in the driveway
@RyanR If you want to stop by and drive the 16 you're welcome to since you're local (bought a new - closer to you now too).
Bigger tires; bigger rotors?
- Thread starter Celt Horseman
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Glad it could help. I will tell my wife that's good enough justification for keeping 2 200s in the driveway
@RyanR If you want to stop by and drive the 16 you're welcome to since you're local (bought a new - closer to you now too).
Glad it could help. I will tell my wife that's good enough justification for keeping 2 200s in the driveway
I appreciate the offer, may have to take you up on that. Though the wife would likely kill me if I buy a new Landy with another baby en route, UNLESS I can convince her to replace her 4 Runner. Hmmm... Did you move further out West? I am moving further East in a couple weeks haha
Are you taking the LX or LC to Telluride next month?
We bought a house new old town Arvada, so not too far away. I'm planning to take the LC to Telluride, but this weekend I'll be trying to the LX off road for the first time mostly just for kicks to see how the AHC compares to BP51s.
Congrats on the house! Curious to hear your feedback. I can tell you the AHC certainly can't compare to a set of Kings hauling ass down a trail or through the sand and whoops. But at 5MPH crawling down a trail it's kind of all the same! (Waiting to be struck down for such sacrilegious heresy)
sorry for too many questions but can't help it when I see how mean and aggressive your 200s look with 35s.
This is what I gathered from reading Mudders posts who went to the 35 club on their 200s:
- Decrease in MPG
- Tire noise
- Risk damaging your CV
- May need to upgrade breaks (rotors and pads)
- UCA + 3" plus lift required
- KDSS relo kit is a must
- Fender well trimming
The obvious question, Is it work it? how different does it drive now after you made the switch? what driving habits if any you needed to change and do differently? Do you drive your LC with 35s daily?
Pls share your wisdom here and and correct me if my list above is aligned with your experience, and if I missed anything around experience driving 35's vs 33/34 in terms gain/loss after the switch.
This is what I gathered from reading Mudders posts who went to the 35 club on their 200s:
- Decrease in MPG
- Tire noise
- Risk damaging your CV
- May need to upgrade breaks (rotors and pads)
- UCA + 3" plus lift required
- KDSS relo kit is a must
- Fender well trimming
The obvious question, Is it work it? how different does it drive now after you made the switch? what driving habits if any you needed to change and do differently? Do you drive your LC with 35s daily?
Pls share your wisdom here and and correct me if my list above is aligned with your experience, and if I missed anything around experience driving 35's vs 33/34 in terms gain/loss after the switch.
Last edited:
TexAZ
NEW???? It's BETTER than new!!!
Tire noise is entirely dependant on tire design. My 35 ridge grapplers are silent, while my 34 Toyo atii were loud above 50.
Wheel weight will affect driving characteristics more than gaining an inch in tire diameter. 34s on 17" forged rock warriors accelelerated and stopped slightly worse than stock.
20" cast wheels, 10 lbs. Heavier made stopping an effort.
Mpg will drop. So will adding weight or decreasing aerodynamics ( bumpers, roof rack).
Mark, Tony, and willie run 35s on cruiser hardware. They have had mixed reviews of the kdss relo bracket.
Several of us have swapped to tundra front end. It solves the clearance issues.
Makes for a stable platform, and increased availability of parts.
I'm the only person on 200 section that destroyed a CV. It is documented that I was running a one off set up and it caused binding in the inner joint.
Side note" never adjust the wheels more than 3/4" forward using the SPC arms"
34s are the best size for these trucks.
Wheel weight will affect driving characteristics more than gaining an inch in tire diameter. 34s on 17" forged rock warriors accelelerated and stopped slightly worse than stock.
20" cast wheels, 10 lbs. Heavier made stopping an effort.
Mpg will drop. So will adding weight or decreasing aerodynamics ( bumpers, roof rack).
Mark, Tony, and willie run 35s on cruiser hardware. They have had mixed reviews of the kdss relo bracket.
Several of us have swapped to tundra front end. It solves the clearance issues.
Makes for a stable platform, and increased availability of parts.
I'm the only person on 200 section that destroyed a CV. It is documented that I was running a one off set up and it caused binding in the inner joint.
Side note" never adjust the wheels more than 3/4" forward using the SPC arms"
34s are the best size for these trucks.
Thanks for clarifying on the CV issue. I have the SPC UCA with 3" lift with OME BP-51 and 2722 in rear on R18/275/70 Toyos AT. The humming above 50 is too loud for me and I already noticed the added weight impact on MPG and breaking with the lift, heavy sliders and skids from budbuilt. The toyos are too narrow for my taste.
Follow up questions If I may:
- Thanks for sharing your insight on your ridge grapplers noise level. I have a set of RWs and just need to decide on tire size to put them on. I will take a look at those. which size/part# do you have?
35x12.50R17LT E 121Q 217020
OR
LT315/70R17 E 121/118Q 217530
- Do you have KDSS reloc installed?
- When you say Tundra front, is it just UCAs?
- Do you think upgrading to vented rotors would help with the breaking performance?
- Also, do you mind sharing pictures of your rig on 34s?
TexAZ
NEW???? It's BETTER than new!!!
I have a thread on the tundra swap, it requires upper and lower control arms, CV s and tie rod ends.
I went to tundra brakes when I changed wheels/ went to 35s.
I'm running 35/11.50r20
A 12.50 would be nice in the sand or mud, but the thinner tire helps with clearance, weight and mileage.
I've never been wanting for traction.
34s and 35s
I went to tundra brakes when I changed wheels/ went to 35s.
I'm running 35/11.50r20
A 12.50 would be nice in the sand or mud, but the thinner tire helps with clearance, weight and mileage.
I've never been wanting for traction.
34s and 35s
I think the one thing you would add to the 35 list are extended bump stops. Not sure if @TexAZ is using them, but know that @Willy beamin is. That's been the one thing holding me back from the 35 club. But, at HITR, he on his 35's had an advantage over me on my 33's in a few spots. Going to try the Nitto 34's next and see if that satisfies my need for size... since it matters 
TexAZ
NEW???? It's BETTER than new!!!
Definitely running bumpstops.
Energy suspension 2 1/2 in the front
And 4" in the rear.
Front doesn't touch with full travel, the rears still rub a little.
Bumpstops just seemed to move where they hit.
Energy suspension 2 1/2 in the front
And 4" in the rear.
Front doesn't touch with full travel, the rears still rub a little.
Bumpstops just seemed to move where they hit.
TexAZ
NEW???? It's BETTER than new!!!
I was getting hard contact on the inner corner of the wheel well at full stuff, when articulated.
With the bumpstops, icon rear springs and a moderate trail load, the rear axle compressed enough that the wheels rubbed on the top of wheel wells
With the bumpstops, icon rear springs and a moderate trail load, the rear axle compressed enough that the wheels rubbed on the top of wheel wells
Markuson
SILVER Star
My rear wheel wells are missing a good bit of black lining, but no damage beyond the coating. That’s with stock rear (no additional bumps). I should add something back there, but it doesn’t feel like an emergency...
TexAZ
NEW???? It's BETTER than new!!!
Markuson
SILVER Star
I should add that you definitely should bend a few metal cornered protrusions in the rear well. When you look under them, you’ll see what I’m referring to.
You can read my "34s on stock setup" thread, but basically:
* 33s on stock are fine
* 34s on stock require some trimming and mud flap removal, and maybe a couple whacks of a hammer, but otherwise fit ok. In the end you probably want to lift a bit though. UCA not required by helpful
* 35s are everything you note, except CV damage hasn't really been an issue (I've seen 2 or 3 issues with CVs but it's all been people who swapped in Tundra CVs).
In all instances MPG suffers, it's just worse the larger tire diameter you run
Markuson
SILVER Star
I can’t think of any reason why CVs would be harmed by 35’s. Can someone explain why they think that would be an issue? I’ve had zero CV probs. Unless you do a crazy-high lift, the effect on CVs should be nil.
What kind of set up do you have?
Markuson
SILVER Star
Read the fine print in my signature below my posts. All details are there.
(If you’re on an iPhone, turn it to landscape side and Safari should then include the signature section)
