Good morning / afternoon ladies and gentleman!
I have a big decision to make by the end of this week, Friday Aug 12, 2022;
DOES SHE STAY, OR DOES SHE GO (and under what circumstances)…..?
I will announce the decision this coming weekend once I digest the responses.
Looks like I have a head gasket failure, and a leaky block …….and my own other “issues”……read on…….
(Appologies in advance- long read, hopefully to guide the decision making….)
BACKGROUND
- Long time 80 Series owner (since ‘99), over 600k on two ‘97s. I do all my own maintenance, modifications, and fabrication.
- Yesterday was a hot day (but normal this time of year, in the 90’s, and the engine temp was normal, as usual) I went up a few thousand feet to a friends place, when my ‘97 exhibited hydro-lock on trying to start. Risking fate (i.e. a bent con-rod), I bumped it a few times and she sputtered, started, and ran smoothly, however, with water vapor (steam) coming out of tailpipe for a couple minutes after starting.
>>>> With no further diagnosis, I pretty sure there was water in one or more cylinder (very interested hearing anyone’s counter-diagnosis…..) <<<<<<
-312k miles, new to me 4 years ago, around 40k miles ago.
-Unfortunately, this engine also has the cracked cylinder block syndrome, below the freeze plug, to the right of the oil filter. The coolant “leak” is so small, I only refill the overflow tank (from min. to max. every 12-18 months). But you can see a mineral deposit at the crack site, no liquid water, ever. It is troubling, however, leaks rarely fix themselves, and can get larger……I would never consider doing anything about this “leak” if it hadn’t been fior this headgasket problem, now I couldn‘t let the block go unfixed…….
- Never any overheating, needle always below horizontal even in 115 deg. Not sure about Previous Owner, however….the radiator was new when I bought the truck.
- I’ve have built and maintained this truck in really good condition, I.e.:
West coast truck, no rust, white color truck (they last the best) , paint and interior in good condition
Slee front bumper
Warn winch
Dual AGM batteries with Blue Sea ACR and in-cab voltage indication and control
ARB/OME 2-1/2” heavy lift
Slee Sliders
Slee expedition rear bumper (ladder & tire carrier)
interior nice- no cracks or tears, except for butt panel on drivers side.
Everything works, and all oil leaks fixed ( not a drop on the driveway!), everything “baselined” ( we use that work too much how about “over-maintained”)
SITUATION / ISSUES
A) 80 Series is in my DNA, obviously.
B) However, not sure if the LC fits my new needs: Recently bought a second home 1400 miles (one way) from home base, and we are doing 6 or so commutes between homes each year (hauling my hunting dogs). These commutes are sometimes winter driving across 5 mountain passes and some really desolate spots in between. Not sure if a 25 year old truck with 312k miles is a long term solution for a safe commute. Up to this point, all of my 600k miles of 80 Series driving experience has only been within 150 miles of home base. Incidentally, I have another truck but it’s pricey to drive and maintain (euro truck), so this commute thing is a softer consideration, but does play in the big decision mix.
C) Can’t fix the 80 series and buy another newer diesel pickup truck for the long commute. It’s one or the other, per wifeypoo. (That’s a period at the end of the sentence).
FOUR POSSIBLE DECISIONS, please pick one, or a combination, and support your case:
1) Buy a short block from the dealer, rebuild my head, viola, back in business. (Or buy a rebuild long block from a highly respected LC shop). I can do most of the engine swap work, except machining.
And then keep truck….
Questions
a) Can the truck be used for 2800 mile round-trip commutes, every other month ( what is your experience level with this?). This is a softer consideration, by the way.
b) Any recent $$ experience, for a dealer short block part cost (and cheapest source) + local machinist head rebuild (SoCal) or $$ to buy a long block from a experienced LC specialist?
2) Do the above, but then sell the truck. I won’t take a short-cuts on fixing the engine, and then foist the result on the new owner, so if I go this route, it will be done with quality, I.e. $$…….. Since I can do most of the work, will I be able to sell the truck at a higher price to offset the engine costs to make all the work worthwhile (Sweat equity worthwhile??)
3) Sell the truck as-is. It would make the perfect base for someone to do a Diesel or LS conversion, or OEM engine…..
4) Do a Diesel or LS conversion and keep the truck;
a) With this new power plant, can the truck be used for 2800 mile commutes 6 times a year (again, this is a softer consideration).
b) Anyone with recent costs (and source) for a turn-key Diesel conversion (this is actually my preference, even above a gas engine rebuild, if I keep the truck).
5) Get rid of wifeypoo , fix and keep the LC, buy another newer truck……This is not a viable option….
Thanks everyone!
Handy Al
I have a big decision to make by the end of this week, Friday Aug 12, 2022;
DOES SHE STAY, OR DOES SHE GO (and under what circumstances)…..?
I will announce the decision this coming weekend once I digest the responses.
Looks like I have a head gasket failure, and a leaky block …….and my own other “issues”……read on…….
(Appologies in advance- long read, hopefully to guide the decision making….)
BACKGROUND
- Long time 80 Series owner (since ‘99), over 600k on two ‘97s. I do all my own maintenance, modifications, and fabrication.
- Yesterday was a hot day (but normal this time of year, in the 90’s, and the engine temp was normal, as usual) I went up a few thousand feet to a friends place, when my ‘97 exhibited hydro-lock on trying to start. Risking fate (i.e. a bent con-rod), I bumped it a few times and she sputtered, started, and ran smoothly, however, with water vapor (steam) coming out of tailpipe for a couple minutes after starting.
>>>> With no further diagnosis, I pretty sure there was water in one or more cylinder (very interested hearing anyone’s counter-diagnosis…..) <<<<<<
-312k miles, new to me 4 years ago, around 40k miles ago.
-Unfortunately, this engine also has the cracked cylinder block syndrome, below the freeze plug, to the right of the oil filter. The coolant “leak” is so small, I only refill the overflow tank (from min. to max. every 12-18 months). But you can see a mineral deposit at the crack site, no liquid water, ever. It is troubling, however, leaks rarely fix themselves, and can get larger……I would never consider doing anything about this “leak” if it hadn’t been fior this headgasket problem, now I couldn‘t let the block go unfixed…….
- Never any overheating, needle always below horizontal even in 115 deg. Not sure about Previous Owner, however….the radiator was new when I bought the truck.
- I’ve have built and maintained this truck in really good condition, I.e.:
West coast truck, no rust, white color truck (they last the best) , paint and interior in good condition
Slee front bumper
Warn winch
Dual AGM batteries with Blue Sea ACR and in-cab voltage indication and control
ARB/OME 2-1/2” heavy lift
Slee Sliders
Slee expedition rear bumper (ladder & tire carrier)
interior nice- no cracks or tears, except for butt panel on drivers side.
Everything works, and all oil leaks fixed ( not a drop on the driveway!), everything “baselined” ( we use that work too much how about “over-maintained”)
SITUATION / ISSUES
A) 80 Series is in my DNA, obviously.
B) However, not sure if the LC fits my new needs: Recently bought a second home 1400 miles (one way) from home base, and we are doing 6 or so commutes between homes each year (hauling my hunting dogs). These commutes are sometimes winter driving across 5 mountain passes and some really desolate spots in between. Not sure if a 25 year old truck with 312k miles is a long term solution for a safe commute. Up to this point, all of my 600k miles of 80 Series driving experience has only been within 150 miles of home base. Incidentally, I have another truck but it’s pricey to drive and maintain (euro truck), so this commute thing is a softer consideration, but does play in the big decision mix.
C) Can’t fix the 80 series and buy another newer diesel pickup truck for the long commute. It’s one or the other, per wifeypoo. (That’s a period at the end of the sentence).
FOUR POSSIBLE DECISIONS, please pick one, or a combination, and support your case:
1) Buy a short block from the dealer, rebuild my head, viola, back in business. (Or buy a rebuild long block from a highly respected LC shop). I can do most of the engine swap work, except machining.
And then keep truck….
Questions
a) Can the truck be used for 2800 mile round-trip commutes, every other month ( what is your experience level with this?). This is a softer consideration, by the way.
b) Any recent $$ experience, for a dealer short block part cost (and cheapest source) + local machinist head rebuild (SoCal) or $$ to buy a long block from a experienced LC specialist?
2) Do the above, but then sell the truck. I won’t take a short-cuts on fixing the engine, and then foist the result on the new owner, so if I go this route, it will be done with quality, I.e. $$…….. Since I can do most of the work, will I be able to sell the truck at a higher price to offset the engine costs to make all the work worthwhile (Sweat equity worthwhile??)
3) Sell the truck as-is. It would make the perfect base for someone to do a Diesel or LS conversion, or OEM engine…..
4) Do a Diesel or LS conversion and keep the truck;
a) With this new power plant, can the truck be used for 2800 mile commutes 6 times a year (again, this is a softer consideration).
b) Anyone with recent costs (and source) for a turn-key Diesel conversion (this is actually my preference, even above a gas engine rebuild, if I keep the truck).
5) Get rid of wifeypoo , fix and keep the LC, buy another newer truck……This is not a viable option….
Thanks everyone!
Handy Al