Best way to clean out inside middle boxed frame sections?

[Eporter]

What is the best way to clean out the inside of the FJ60 frame, while it's still under the truck!

I've searched and read a lot about varied frame restos and repairs.

Seems like some people stand their frames up vertical, and all the rust, dirt, sand, etc. comes out one end.

Others have cut open their frames, cleaned up the inside, then re-welded them back together.

I stuck my finger in one of the outer frame holes (under the B-pillar area of the body, along the vertical side of the frame) and felt a bit of crap.

There's sand, rust flakes, etc. I need to suck it out. Shopvac with a garden hose? Seems like it might get frequently plugged with rust flakes. Also, it's hard to get in there.

I'm thinking about attaching the shop vac nozzle to one frame hole, then pushing everything towards it through another hole?

Or run a cable through the frame with a small washer on the end to plow/scrape crap to one central point?

Run a garden hose on the shop vac in from one end of the frame, and poke at it from the other?

It sucks that the frame goes up over the front and rear wheels! There's crap stuck down in the valley.

BACK in the day on the LCML, I remember someone suggesting the shop vac method?

Have the great minds of MUD improved the methodology?

 

[forestdan7]

I have access to a front loader, so I hooked up a chain to my bumper, lifted the front end way up, and put a hose in the front. You wouldn't believe how much crap came out other end. Mud, sand, rust flakes.

After that, I let it dry several days, then did an oil treatment inside and out. I plan to do it again this year, before winter. I used Fluid Film, and have been pleased with the results. Search frame oil for several other options.

 

[cruiser88]

I have access to a front loader, so I hooked up a chain to my bumper, lifted the front end way up, and put a hose in the front. You wouldn't believe how much crap came out other end. Mud, sand, rust flakes.

After that, I let it dry several days, then did an oil treatment inside and out. I plan to do it again this year, before winter. I used Fluid Film, and have been pleased with the results. Search frame oil for several other options.

Best idea yet

 

[SAS]

I've been contemplating the same problem; like most, I don't have access to a machine to perform the forestdan7 method. My 60 also has years of accumulated dirt, sand, and flaked metal inside the boxed frame.

Thought about cutting a section of frame on the bottom before the rear axle, then rinsing liberally with the garden hose, followed by a few days to dry, then an oil treatment, and finally welding it closed. Repeat annually at the end of summer.

 

[Eporter]

Maybe weld in a screw-off 2" pipe access cap? Like cleaning out sewage lines!

Could a hi-lift get the front of a 60 high enough? hmmm... That sounds dangerous, though.

I've thought about pointing a leafblower in one end of the frame.

Would compressed air do the trick if you sealed off any holes in the side of the frame?

 

[Nexus_8]

I have the same problem, Would it be possible to drill a permenent hole the size of a shopvac hose on the side near the bottom middle portion of the frame. If all the other holes are pluuged then the whole frame might act like a vakume hose. Would a hole that size weaken the frame at all? The rust flakes in my frame is almost to the of the regular rectangular holes. Any other ideas?

 

[ntsqd]

A hole of any significant size on the top or bottom is the worst place for it. Either side is far better from a strength point of view.

 

[Wile E Coyote]

Jamb a garden hose up as far as you can get it. Not far enough, you say? Well, then get an adapter to go from the garden hose down to 3/8" barb for fuel hose and run a length of that up the frame. Garden hose to 3/8" hose should increase the psi nicely. Park on a hill, or at least drive up some ramps if that's all ya got. Do each side, then turn the rig around and jamb the hose up the rear portion of the frame. Use a screwdriver to break up the large rust flakes that will surely clog in any of the existing frame holes. Let it dry, then oil it up, as mentioned.

 

[lovetoski]

Chimney sweeps have this problem - right? I've not exactly "studied" their procedures/tools, but I think they have a stiff brush in the middle of a long rope. One up top, one down below, and they work the brush up and down. Why not similar in a 60 frame? One person in front, one in back, heave-ho, pull the brush from front to back and back to front. I bet it would clean it out pretty good.

I have no clue what to do afterwords though...

 

[lehiguy]

The Procedure

1. Lock hubs.
2. Engage four-low.
3. Place front axle on top of wife's Grand Caravan.
4. Hose out frame.
5. Reverse steps one through three.
6. Buy wife a Honda Passport to replace damaged Caravan.

 

[mudnyreye]

Take it to the Self service car wash. get some car ramps. get under and have fun. It's a good idea to have a pal feed the quarters. Bonus! you get to drive away and leave the mud n junk there. I like the frame oil idea, but oil attracts dirt. keep it clean and it will stay relatively rust free.

 

[Wile E Coyote]

I like the frame oil idea, but oil attracts dirt. keep it clean and it will stay relatively rust free.

Attracting dirt or not, oil is a lifesaver and commonly used in the rust-belt areas.

 

[Spike Strip]

I used a pressure washer with lots and lots of degreaser and Marine Clean and Metal Prep. Shot in through what ever holes there were...

Stuck the nozzle of a leaf blower in the front of the frame and let it run for an hour to dry (felt air coming out the rear channel of the frame). Then, I shot lots of POR-15 in there the best I could.

Not the best, but the best I could do with body still attached.

 

[ntsqd]

Take it to the Self service car wash. get some car ramps. get under and have fun. It's a good idea to have a pal feed the quarters. Bonus! you get to drive away and leave the mud n junk there. I like the frame oil idea, but oil attracts dirt. keep it clean and it will stay relatively rust free.

Reading this sparked an observation. The bluing on firearms does not prevent rust. It is the oil held in the pores of the bluing that prevents rust. Similarly a little surface rust on the frame will hold a lot of oil, that the top surface attracts a little dirt isn't that big of a deal.

There are kits made to undercoat the insides of rocker panels. I believe Eastwood sells them, and possibly JCW. I can see using one of those kits to apply your favorite anti-rust stuff to the inside of the frame rails.

 

[Eporter]

I've thought about the chimney sweep method, but there's a lot of "stuff" in the way along the frame.

At the front, the steering box bolts through the frame. At the rear the rear shock tube is welded through the frame. And I'm sure there are a few other things I'm forgetting right now.

I think the biggest problem is getting the truck tilted enough to raise the frame enough that the crud will flow out of the valley formed by the wheel arches in the frame.

Without using a front loader, which way is at less of a slope, lifting the front of the truck, or the rear?

 

[Nexus_8]

Its Done Part Way

OK so I went to my local Auto Mechanic and asked him to jack up the front end only until the rear touched the ground (30 deg). Combination of roto rooter ($10.00) and water hose and about one hour. I think I got about 95% of all the loose rust out. I can feel the bottom of the frame metal with my finger. I paid the guy $80 to use his hoist. It is worth it. He only asked for $50. Now to decide how to best retard internal rusting?

 

[Eporter]

Nice! I guess it never hurts to ask your local shop!

I think any of the oil protectants would be good inside the frame. Even a waxoyl type product, or just plain old motor oil. Use a hand pump pesticide sprayer if you don't have air tools.

I'm still trying to find a steep hill near a hose!

 

[kling-on]

I just parked mine on a maybe 1ft mount and put the garden hose in the square hole in the frame and let it run for 30 mins or so .. left a 10 foot round pile of crap mostly fine silt on mine

 

[albylam]

Its Done Part Way

OK so I went to my local Auto Mechanic and asked him to jack up the front end only until the rear touched the ground (30 deg). Combination of roto rooter ($10.00) and water hose and about one hour. I think I got about 95% of all the loose rust out. I can feel the bottom of the frame metal with my finger. I paid the guy $80 to use his hoist. It is worth it. He only asked for $50. Now to decide how to best retard internal rusting?
View attachment 264422

Wtf. I'm kinda jealous