I have recently got a welder and some basic fabrication tools. I am having trouble getting good angles. This causes me fitting issues and the gaps are tough for a novice to fill. I have been attempting to mitre corners and I just cant get good cuts. I have an angle grinder, portaband with a SWAG off-road stand, a hacksaw, a jigsaw and a reciprocating saw. Is there a reasonably priced tool that will cut a true 45 degree angle with ease? My portaband does a decent job but with thicker or longer material it doesn't cut true.
Best tool to cut metal angles
- Thread starter TXSunDevil
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I can cut fairly straight with my portaband, but a cutting disk on an angle grinder should do better if you have a reasonably steady hand, I would think. It's kind of self-guiding. You should be able to stay easily within 1/16" with good scribing, which is pretty easy to fill while welding. I just don't like to cut very thick stuff with those thin wheels, though, always seems sketchy.
An abrasive chop saw is reasonably cheap ($150 and up now I'm guessing) but the disk tends to flex and wander a bit, in my experience, so not that great if you want to be very accurate, but still probably good enough for normal shop fabrication.
A cold/dry cutting chopsaw or a standalone bandsaw should definitely do great but are a bit pricier ($300 and up maybe?). I have been pretty happy with my cheapo HF bandsaw, it cuts very straight, but it does take quite a bit of floor or bench space.
A special carbide blade on a circular saw should work too if your metal is not too thick, that would be a cheap way to go if you already have a circular saw ($40 for the blade).
If you have the money, I would go with a dry cutting chopsaw, those are great to have around. And they will definitely give you very good cuts. No spark or dust (but lots of chips). No burning your fingers. Don't take a lot of space. Blades are not cheap, though. I don't have one now but it's high on the list...
How thick metal are you trying to cut? What kind of stuff?
An abrasive chop saw is reasonably cheap ($150 and up now I'm guessing) but the disk tends to flex and wander a bit, in my experience, so not that great if you want to be very accurate, but still probably good enough for normal shop fabrication.
A cold/dry cutting chopsaw or a standalone bandsaw should definitely do great but are a bit pricier ($300 and up maybe?). I have been pretty happy with my cheapo HF bandsaw, it cuts very straight, but it does take quite a bit of floor or bench space.
A special carbide blade on a circular saw should work too if your metal is not too thick, that would be a cheap way to go if you already have a circular saw ($40 for the blade).
If you have the money, I would go with a dry cutting chopsaw, those are great to have around. And they will definitely give you very good cuts. No spark or dust (but lots of chips). No burning your fingers. Don't take a lot of space. Blades are not cheap, though. I don't have one now but it's high on the list...
How thick metal are you trying to cut? What kind of stuff?
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- Thread starter
- #3
1/4" would probably be the thickest wall. Mostly 2" tubing. Those dry cut chop saws may be the ticket. You think they would be better than the Klutch bench top band saw? It has a vertical configuration.
2" and 1/4 would be no problem for all those tools. I think the bandsaw has an advantage if you go to bigger stuff and would allow for a bit more leeway in cutting more elaborate shapes in the vertical position. But how often would you do that? The cold cut saw is I think faster to use. And you already have a bandsaw actually. I'm biased, I'll admit, I think the cold cut saw is just a cool (!) tool. If you have the money and will be doing a fair bit of cutting, I don't think you'll regret it.
But honestly, I think you can do fine with an angle grinder if you take care not to bind the wheel and are not in a hurry. It is inherently a much more dangerous tool than a bandsaw or a dry cut saw, however. And there are difficulties marking a round tube at an angle.
But it seems to me that learning how to weld small gaps would be the easiest and cheapest way to go altogether.
Probably best to wait for a pro to chime in, though, I am no expert.
But honestly, I think you can do fine with an angle grinder if you take care not to bind the wheel and are not in a hurry. It is inherently a much more dangerous tool than a bandsaw or a dry cut saw, however. And there are difficulties marking a round tube at an angle.
But it seems to me that learning how to weld small gaps would be the easiest and cheapest way to go altogether.
Probably best to wait for a pro to chime in, though, I am no expert.
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- #5
I have trouble cutting a straight line with a grinder. The edges do not match
I had several welding projects this summer, all lighter stuff but some required good square and miter cuts, so I picked up one of those RAGE4 cold cut saws from Evolution. Bought it from Lowes, they had the best price and free shipping, but Amazon may be the go-to now. It's better than expected, but for ~$160 I didn't expect much. The stock clamp sucks, but it's easy to remedy. They make lots of models, that are much better, but cost more.
Mine was missing a small bag of hardware in the box, so I contacted Evolution directly and they sent it right away, along with a complementary new blade, so now I have a spare.
Mine was missing a small bag of hardware in the box, so I contacted Evolution directly and they sent it right away, along with a complementary new blade, so now I have a spare.
Yeah, it's only a 7-1/4" blade. Specs are here: https://store.evolutionpowertools.c...blade-refurbished-like-new#cutting-capacities
But the next size up will definitely do that. I just couldn't justify the bump in cost. I also have a Makita cordless metal saw (BCS550) that I can use for anything bigger than my saw.
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- #10
OK, looking at the cold saws. I can get this
or this
The Makita is a bit pricier but I have had great luck with all of my Makita products. Anyone have any experience with either of these? I do like the Evolution option because it does have the option to cut wood. I do not currently have a wood chop saw, though I do not have a pressing need for one either. I would prefer to buy at Home Depot so I can cash out some AMEX points, but if there is a better value elsewhere I could go that route.
Evolution Power Tools 15 Amp 14 in. Chop Saw with V-Block and Multi-Material 32-T Blade R355CPS - The Home Depot
This amazing Evolution Power Tools Multi-Material Chop Saw cuts steel, aluminum, copper and wood with embedded nails. Includes head lock down pin.
www.homedepot.com
Makita 15 Amp 12 in. Corded Metal Cutting Cut-off Chop Saw with Carbide Blade LC1230 - The Home Depot
Visit The Home Depot to buy Makita LC1230 12 in. Metal Cutting Saw LC1230
www.homedepot.com
The Makita is a bit pricier but I have had great luck with all of my Makita products. Anyone have any experience with either of these? I do like the Evolution option because it does have the option to cut wood. I do not currently have a wood chop saw, though I do not have a pressing need for one either. I would prefer to buy at Home Depot so I can cash out some AMEX points, but if there is a better value elsewhere I could go that route.
That "multimaterial cutting" bit seems to me to be nonsensical marketing. You can likely cut wood equally well with any dry saw, given the right blade, I would think. They are all roughly similar slower speed, I would hope. More important to me would be the difference in blade size, depending on plans and needs. You can do 1" taller material with the 14" vs 12, that's significant. (14 in blades would be a bit more expensive but you can use a 12" blade in the Evo, I assume, if need be. Not v-v.)
If I had to guess I would say that the Makita is probably the better quality one, but just a guess indeed based on pics, brand and price. The difference in price is massive, though. That Evolution is very inexpensive for a cold saw. If you get it, let us know what you think.
If I had to guess I would say that the Makita is probably the better quality one, but just a guess indeed based on pics, brand and price. The difference in price is massive, though. That Evolution is very inexpensive for a cold saw. If you get it, let us know what you think.
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Take time to make your measurements and markings.
Go slow while cutting when using a band saw or chop saw. Let the blade do the work. Want to make the blade vibrate/chatter as little as possible.
If using an angle grinder I like to run the disc so it pulls the grinder away from me and into the material. First I'll start with buzzing a bit of material away on the line I'm cutting and then I'll let the cut off wheel dig in and I'll keep doing that until I have started square with decent plunge of the disc. Then proceed forward by buzzing a bit of the line making a guide then I'll drop the disc back and let it climb up and it cuts along the buzz like a train track.
All the tools will work if used appropriately and the steel is marked accurately.
Go slow while cutting when using a band saw or chop saw. Let the blade do the work. Want to make the blade vibrate/chatter as little as possible.
If using an angle grinder I like to run the disc so it pulls the grinder away from me and into the material. First I'll start with buzzing a bit of material away on the line I'm cutting and then I'll let the cut off wheel dig in and I'll keep doing that until I have started square with decent plunge of the disc. Then proceed forward by buzzing a bit of the line making a guide then I'll drop the disc back and let it climb up and it cuts along the buzz like a train track.
All the tools will work if used appropriately and the steel is marked accurately.
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- #13
I think the marking is a big part of it. I think I need to use a fine scribe instead of the fine sharpie I am using. I do not want to use the grinder without a guard, so it is tough to cut a straight line when I can see the wheel.
You can do it with a grinder. And with a sharpie. I have and I will. But I think nobody in their right mind would dispute that it will be much faster, much easier, much more accurate and especially much safer with a cold saw...
The Evolution saws say they cut wood, and I'm sure they do, but it's not exactly a pleasant experience. You could use it for framing, but not trim work. They are really meant to be able to cut through wood that might have nails in it. If the blade has had a taste of metal, then the sharp edges are gone from the carbide and it will burn and splinter. Their blades are also depth controlled, in other words, there is a second tooth just in front of the cutting tooth that keeps you from going too fast, but that doesn't work well with wood. Besides, the fence is not very accurate and very short, no way as nice as a decent miter saw.
If price isn't that important, then heck ya the Makita will be a much better saw. I think the Evolution saws are riding the "good enough" crest. I wouldn't want to make a living with one.
When you need a miter saw, just go to craigslist, there's tons of good ones on there for short money.
If price isn't that important, then heck ya the Makita will be a much better saw. I think the Evolution saws are riding the "good enough" crest. I wouldn't want to make a living with one.
When you need a miter saw, just go to craigslist, there's tons of good ones on there for short money.
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- #16
I just ordered the Makita LC1230 and a Tungsten Scribe. Hopefully this will improve my skills. I hope to improve my welding with practice. I think my next project will be a rack for my Scepter cans on my trailer. I will report back once the saw arrives and I have chopped a few pieces of 1" square.
I have an Evolution 15” and it’s hard for me to get a perfect 45 degree cut. I think the mitre gauge is just not that accurate. An angle clamp makes it easier to get a good figment. Then fill the gap.
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- #18
Thanks, I got that clamp last week after I had already welded my sloppy cuts together. Hopefully with the clamp and soon to arrive new saw I can crank out some decent looking corners.
I have the LC1230. I think you will be very happy with it. The saw is capable of cutting extremely precisely. The only thing holding it back is the clamp (it's not really bad, the blade is just capable of cutting on the level of thousands from flat, and the clamp isn't really on that level.)
Keep in mind, the blade can be sharpened, if I'm not mistaken. I've probably done at least a hundred cuts with the stock blade, (everything up to 4" square 1/4" wall tubing, 1"x2" bar stock), and I just ordered a new blade yesterday (planning to try having the old one sharpened).
If you really want to dial in the angle of the clamp, the best way I've found to do that is to make a test cut, check against a 90/30/45 degree angle or whatever, and then adjust the clamp as necessary, make another test cut etc. Using this method I've been able to make cuts that I believe could be as good as +/- .005" perpendicular across a 2" tube. At that point the sides of the extruded tube aren't really flat anyway, so there's not really any point in getting better. The actual flatness of the cut is much better than I can measure without more sophisticated equipment.
For cutting square with a grinder, I've found the best way to make an in plane cut around a tube is to position one eyeball (equipped with safety glasses, of course) directly in plane with the blade, so that you're just looking at the edge of the blade and it appears to be only 1/16" thick or whatever. Do the same thing with your cut once you get started. Then just focus on keeping the blade and the cut in-plane with each other as you work around the tube (for smaller tubes, you can just cut from one side, which is nice). Using this technique, my limiting factor on accuracy has been how accurately I can draw lines on the tube. Even with the chop saw, I still end up cutting some stuff with the angle grinder, though if it will fit on the Makita, I will cut it on the Makita.
Cutting 4" tube:
Keep in mind, the blade can be sharpened, if I'm not mistaken. I've probably done at least a hundred cuts with the stock blade, (everything up to 4" square 1/4" wall tubing, 1"x2" bar stock), and I just ordered a new blade yesterday (planning to try having the old one sharpened).
If you really want to dial in the angle of the clamp, the best way I've found to do that is to make a test cut, check against a 90/30/45 degree angle or whatever, and then adjust the clamp as necessary, make another test cut etc. Using this method I've been able to make cuts that I believe could be as good as +/- .005" perpendicular across a 2" tube. At that point the sides of the extruded tube aren't really flat anyway, so there's not really any point in getting better. The actual flatness of the cut is much better than I can measure without more sophisticated equipment.
For cutting square with a grinder, I've found the best way to make an in plane cut around a tube is to position one eyeball (equipped with safety glasses, of course) directly in plane with the blade, so that you're just looking at the edge of the blade and it appears to be only 1/16" thick or whatever. Do the same thing with your cut once you get started. Then just focus on keeping the blade and the cut in-plane with each other as you work around the tube (for smaller tubes, you can just cut from one side, which is nice). Using this technique, my limiting factor on accuracy has been how accurately I can draw lines on the tube. Even with the chop saw, I still end up cutting some stuff with the angle grinder, though if it will fit on the Makita, I will cut it on the Makita.
Cutting 4" tube:
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- #20
Good info. Just got back in town and have all the tools now
