Best Skid Plate for Oil Change Access

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I cut an access panel into my stock skid and then used a piece of scrap aluminum and some threaded clips and bolts to affix a cover for the oil filter. I cut the access for the oil drain too but as I haven’t drained the oil, I haven’t made a clipped cover for that access yet.

I also used a scrap construction sign to cut an aluminum skid plate to replace the plastic engine skid plate and cover the transmission and first set of cats.

All this was very easy with a 3” angle grinder and dremel.

Transfer case and 2nd set of cats skid is more tricky because it requires a crossmember…not diy friendly.

Most of the aftermarket skids don’t cover the transfer case and second set of cats…you have to generally buy that one separate.
 

KLF

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IMG_20200222_174542.jpg


Fumoto F103S valve, access via the hole in the Budbuilt engine skid. Never spills a drop, very easy. I was never a fan of the Fumoto valve until @Taco2Cruiser sold me on installing one after he installed the skids on my truck. If anything gets past that SS skid and snaps off the Fumoto, well I think I've got bigger problems to deal with, like the armor piercing rocket that hit me.
 
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View attachment 3171144

Fumoto F103S valve, access via the hole in the Budbuilt engine skid. Never spills a drop, very easy. I was never a fan of the Fumoto valve until @Taco2Cruiser sold me on installing one after he installed the skids on my truck. If anything gets past that SS skid and snaps off the Fumoto, well I think I've got bigger problems to deal with, like the armor piercing rocket that hit me.
I've got this same valve. Only I just access from the side of the skid next to the LCA to avoid having to remove the access door.
 

bloc

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Turns out I was exaggerating.. finally put the video together and it's just under 1 minute, not 30 seconds.

Still working on a larger thread with a bunch of other details but this shows how easily the stock splash guards come off.

 

AnyMal

no quema cuh
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Turns out I was exaggerating.. finally put the video together and it's just under 1 minute, not 30 seconds.

Still working on a larger thread with a bunch of other details but this shows how easily the stock splash guards come off.



jiffy lube would be jealous lol.

i actually dont fully remove forward side trim and just slide the pan back.
just make sure the vent flanges dont catch and bend.
 

Heritage 2020

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Turns out I was exaggerating.. finally put the video together and it's just under 1 minute, not 30 seconds.

Still working on a larger thread with a bunch of other details but this shows how easily the stock splash guards come off.


@bloc

Thank you for the video sir! I’ll stick with the stock skid, add a Fumota valve, and call it a day.

Your technique is fast enough for me.
 

CharlieS

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As long as you don't go off road, the stock skids are fine. I'd think twice if you use it on offroad routes of any difficulty.
 

bloc

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@bloc

Thank you for the video sir! I’ll stick with the stock skid, add a Fumota valve, and call it a day.

Your technique is fast enough for me.
Sounds like a solid plan. If you don’t have one, that 3/8” impact has been a total game changer. I very carefully use it to reinstall bolts, but do final tightening with a ratchet. For disassembly the thing might as well have angels singing when I get it out of the tool box.. it is awesome.
 
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Sounds like a solid plan. If you don’t have one, that 3/8” impact has been a total game changer. I very carefully use it to reinstall bolts, but do final tightening with a ratchet. For disassembly the thing might as well have angels singing when I get it out of the tool box.. it is awesome.
I’ve got a battery powered 3/8 electric ratchet…doesn’t torque so hard as to worry about anything stripping and then you just “finish” the torquing using the same tool ratcheting by hand. Works well for this type of thing.

KIMO 3/8" Cordless Electric Ratchet Wrench Set, 40 Ft-lbs 400 RPM 12V Cordless Ratchet Kit w/ 60-Min Fast Charge, Variable Speed Trigger, 2-Pack 2.0Ah Lithium-Ion Batteries, 8 Sockets https://a.co/d/58HG9nC
 

bloc

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There is ZERO reason to torque the skid plate bolts. Use your noggin.
No one was talking about using a torque wrench, just finding the correct tightness by feel vs going ham with the impact gun.
 
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I'm installing a Curt front trailer hitch (Front mount 2" receiver #31198) because we move carts on the farm that steer at the front axle meaning they can be a handful it tight spots. Easier to see out of the front of the tow vehicle. I had this on an F350 and missed it. Don't do this all the time but when I do it's sure easier.
Downside is that the skid plate CANNOT easily be removed for oil changes once the hitch is installed and torqued. It is located using the recovery mounts and bolts. Instructions suggest a 4" hole in the skid plate. I think there are better mousetraps from what I've seen here and there.

Screen Shot 2022-12-12 at 9.54.29 AM.png
 

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