Best NON OEM - Toyota parts?

[Hilux]

Namely hoses, belts, water pumps, that sorta thing. PM sorta things.


I'm working on a friends and I know he won't go for the premium dollar thing. The truck spends most of its time setting and is just a local/ work/ back-up sorta truck and used mainly b/c he has some duplexes. So I know he doesn't want to drop some major coin on it.


I know what's best. I just don't ever really replace parts all that often so I don't really know the best aftermarket. On my stuff, my garage is full of spares so that's what I pull from.

I've heard Oreiley's has the best, you just have to get the most expensive and not the cheapest, which is what's 1st rattled off.

Gates Belts? DuraLast Belts? What have you experienced with the aftermarket stuff you've bought?

Seems I put a DuraLast belt on a V6 one time and it stretched as I tried to tighten the adjuster, and in no time it was too loose and at the end of the adjustment? IDR, if that was the name or not, but I'm pretty sure it was. This was b/f I started keeping all the belts, and now I just pull from them.


Like I said. I know what's best but this aint mine and the cost thing aint gonna fly with this guy. What do you reccomend?



Belts, oil filters, hoses, waterpumps, sparkplugs?

You name it, you tell me what's the best, and is not OEM.


THX,

 

[peytonkristen]

Hilux,

I buy allot of stuff from O'Reillys like oil, grease, & lube type stuff. If I need Toyota parts I go through Dan at American Toyota and get the MUD discount which oftentimes is cheaper than getting aftermarket parts from a parts store locally. However, if it is a part like brakes, rotors, hoses, etc. I go to NAPA and get their "better" or "best" brand of parts, not the cheapest they have. JMHO but I think they're brake pads and rotors are as good if not better than OEM. Just my .02 worth. Some people won't use anything but OEM. For me it depends on what it is and where it is. I always stick with Toyota oil filters though. Hope that helps...

 

[ms018kmf]

I go for Napa parts when I'm in a pinch. They're good about warranties (at least my experience), that being said their clutch master cylander failed at 7000 miles. DOC I will deal with really low end stuff as long as it's easy to reach for replacement.

My neighbor is trying to do a clutch in our complex parking lot and everything I hear is "cheap" (dude couldn't figure out where to fill coolant either) . I think you can really squeeze a budget as long as you see the border between "cheap" and "Now I'm doing this twice".

 

[Eric Winkworth]

Premium oil filters from Napa or carquest are actually better than toyota ones.....

To me where it comes from has ALOT to do with how good the parts are.... chinese rotors never seem to last....

 

[Rix86]

stock stock and stock.
OEM all the way.

 

[raydouble]

Belts, oil filters, hoses, waterpumps, sparkplugs?

NGK are OEM sparks right? So there you go. You can get those anywhere if you want to save 20 cents each.
OEM everything, especially vital engine components like H2O pumps and the like.

Premium oil filters from Napa or carquest are actually better than toyota ones.....

Unless proof is provided I would never believe this statement.

 

[WristPin]

I always use AC delco spark plugs.

I made a belt out of pantyhose. how they ended up in my truck, you may or may not want to know.
so far it works way better than any gates belt

I wrap my radiator hoses in duct tape so they never bulge or leak.

Since I filled the radiator with snow, urine and booze, I save so much on coolant.

 

[raydouble]

I always ........

 

[liljlandon]

From experience, and working at Oreillys, the only things I would not even consider them for is vital engine, except the water pumps. But thats because it cost me 13.00 with a lifetime warranty...
You can get birfs at a decent price and they come with a lifetime warranty, as well as the majority of the parts. Plugs, NGK, filters WIX, oil Castrol/purple royal, everthing else is MSV, MOOG, A1 Cardon, or you can go Reman, which i dont recomend. Oreillys parts+Oem housing=NO. Always go with the MSV NEW brand. They last alot longer, and have better tolerances do to the fact its ALL oreillys parts.

As for bearings, i prefer to go NATIONAL or FEDERAL MOGUL. BTW-Im trying to get a mud account set up, that way i can get you guys discounts

 

[pappy]

BTDT. OEM, but I live only a few miles away from CDan. The last time I checked his prices were lower than NAPA. I've run Gates belts in a pinch and they are good, not great. Goodyear is one OEM provider of belts. I know my belts will last at least 50K miles at which point they are replaced as PM. I've seen NAPA belts fail after 20K. Denso is the provider of spark-plugs, oil filters, and most electronics. I can get a Toyota oil filter for about $4.50 while a NAPA Gold is $6.50.

For things like wheel bearings, or bearings in general, I would use OEM, or the OEM manufacturer. NSK, Koyo, Timkin, etc. Anything from China is junk but it cost less. I do run a high end aftermarket spark plug wire, but that's about the only thing I can think of. The reason is they stand up to the header better, and they fit my loom, which OEM will not. You can also purchase AISIN parts aftermarket, and they are the OEM provider for clutch parts and master cylinders.

I think you are jumping the gun assuming Toyota is more than aftermarket. Sometimes they are, but you get what you pay for. I'd run a Toyota water pump over aftermarket any day, largely because I hate replacing them and I know the OEM will last ... and know for a fact that the aftermarket will not.

But, it's your buddies money. You can easily do homework online looking at NAPA/Checker/Autozone/etc. and compare to OEM pricing at several dealers. Give me a list of what you want compared and I'll even do it for him. I'll start with belts, filters and plugs when I get home.

 

[Jukelemon]

I think it really depends on the part AND how long he plans to keep his truck (investment).

I have a truck with 178k miles and very little has every gone wrong. I don't think my case is unusual.

Moreover, Toyota has a very low tolerance of bad parts-they are extremely careful in their vendor selection and the cost analysis they put forth in their labor models.

With that said, I think you can rest assured the Toyota part is going to be at least the top of the mark-not to say others are not close just that you can typically count on their suppliers being of excellent quality.

 

[pappy]

I'm working on a friends and I know he won't go for the premium dollar thing. So I know he doesn't want to drop some major coin on it.

I've heard Oreiley's has the best, you just have to get the most expensive and not the cheapest, which is what's 1st rattled off.

Like I said. I know what's best but this ain't mine and the cost thing ain't gonna fly with this guy.

You name it, you tell me what's the best, and is not OEM.

Rereading your post, I've thinned it down to what I think are your important parts. First, premium parts are going to cost "premium dollar" and I don't care if it's OEM or NAPA. That is just a fact. Second, your buddy doesn't want to pay much for the parts so it means he will need to compromise on quality. Third, if this truck is driven only part time, even a low quality part will last a long time on the calendar, and this seems to be his primary objective.

Tell him to replace his parts with his wallet as the sole factor and call it a day. The rest of us have other factors that influence our part selection ... and it's why we bought a Toyota in the first place.

 

[Hilux]

Toyota wants $89 for a water pump.

and Napa wanted $33 with a ltd lifetime blah.

Sorry, I don't do the C-Dan thing. IH82W8

I don't even want to charge the guy, but he said he would pay me. Now if I gave him receipts for, oh around $150, that's just for parts. So, paying me added to that = "that's a lot for just a WP and three belts?"Say he wanted to pay me. That just made my stack smaller. All I did was belts and WP.

And like I said, it mainly sits. So I can rest better knowing what's in it will do him right.

I just don't know what to buy outside Toyota. The darn stuff never goes out! Even the old shi...stuff I got sitting in the corner!


He brought it to me boiling and said the AZ guy said it was just the Alt belt...

Well duh! Guess what runs the WP?

Why people can't look at one of three gauges, I'll never know. He's dang lucky it even runs now. The only thing that saved him was the motor only has 160k and is AT. How many manufactures can you say that about?
Now if it runs a month will be another story...

 

[cruiser88]

I do not have issues with buying spark plugs some hoses and crap from the local parts store. Just use your head. I hate buying electrical/moving part stuff from autcraps.

 

[pappy]

Give me a list of what you want compared and I'll even do it for him. I'll start with belts, filters and plugs when I get home.

Here is a selection. I looked up prices at Checker for comparison. The parts are for my 1985 22re. I'd say it pays to shop ... or just give up and visit your dealer for known quality.

Belt, AC: $9.48 (Goodyear $7.99-$14.99)
Belt, fan/alt: $5.35 (Goodyear $5.99-$9.99)
Belt, PS: $9.70 (Goodyear $8.99-$15.99)

Oil filter: $4.05 (Pennzoil $3.49, ACDelco $4.49, Purolator $8.59, Fram $4.49, most $21.99, least $2.88)
Air filter: $12.75 (Fram $13.99, Purolator $19.99)
PCV: $3.83 (Purolator $3.99, cheapest $2.37)

Alternator, reman: $124.45 (79.99 - $138.99)
Starter, reman: $72.72 ($59.99 - $89.99)

Dizzy cap: $11.33 ($9.99-$19.99)
Rotor: $3.38 ($4.99-$7.99)
Spark plugs: $1.67 Denso W16EXR-U (NGK BPR5EY $1.99)
Plug wires: $46.54 ($17.99-$41.99=NGK)
Fuel pump: $258.92

Rad hose, lower: $11.01 (Gates $16.99, Goodyear $10.99)
Rad hose, upper: $16.85 (Gates $15.99, Goodyear $13.99)
Rad cap: $10.32 (Stant $6.59)
Thermostat: $10.69 (Stant $5.99-$8.99)

 

[Eric Winkworth]

It has everything to do with where the parts are made.... some carquest and napa stuff actually comes from the same vendors as manufacturers at a reduced price.... The key is to ASK... be aware of where the stuff is coming from... I'm trying to do it with anything from food to auto parts, I had no idea how much food comes from china....

People that hate auto parts stores usually don't ask from premium parts so they get white box s*** parts from china... some stuff is actually better than OEM... ie oil filters is a big one....

 

[raydouble]

some stuff is actually better than OEM... ie oil filters is a big one....

Define "better" for me. You have said this twice now with no links, or facts to back up your statement.

I'm not saying you are incorrect, I'm saying I require evidence to put any stock into what you have said.

Please elaborate.

 

[liljlandon]

By better im thinking he means you can go hi-end in product. Such as Wix. Ive never used an OEM oil filter, but Im thinking that WIX would have to be as good. Its better than most John Deere oil filters, heck people prefer it over Motorcraft, Delco, etc. more to elabortte, but out of time... damn school schedule!

 

[pappy]

OK, but why pay six bucks for a Wix filter when Toyota filters can be had for four bucks? Are Wix 50% better? I doubt it.

 

[Eric Winkworth]

the Purolator filters actually sound the best according to this bloke...

Purolator PremiumPlus L14476 - $3.49

Base-plate: 8 hole openings. Thickness of the plate approx. 0.10". The gasket on the base-plate is squared. Gasket is held in by 6 pressed lips. Stamped: ã3/4-16-S" and ã7".

Case: Thickness approx. 0.019". There is a stamped spring in the bottom of the case, it is stamped ã2".

Anti-drainback valve: Black rubber. Thickness of 0.050". Total width of 2.0". Hole in center of 0.85". Stamped: ã119".

By-pass valve is a stamped spring mounted into the paper filter end cap. The spring hold a metal plate which seals the opening. This and the Toyota by-pass valve are the same.

Filter element: Paper with a thickness of 0.021". 52 pleats of width 0.39". Filter element height of approx. 2.0". 81.12 sq. in. of filtering surface area. The seam for this filtering element was very nicely put together with a metal clasp. Metal end caps glued to each end of filter element. Metal support structure inside element to prevent collapse.

General observations: The Purolator by-pass valve seems very hard to open, I don't know that there is anything wrong with this, I just note it. The pleats in the filter were nicely evenly spaced and the glue job holding the filter element to the end caps was nicely done, and this Purolator has metal end caps on the filter element. It has the most filtering surface area too, but I would say it and the Toyota filter are equal because the margin of error in my measurements is greater than their differences. This filter is made in the USA. It wasn't noted on the filter what standard it met (J806 or J1858). Note: there was a dent on one side of a metal end-cap that was obviously done during manufacturing, but it wouldn't have any affect on filter performance in any way.