Best Mods under $50... (1 Viewer)

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I won't claim they're "mil-spec", but these are the terminals that I've seen on some military vehicles. Not that I have extensive experience with those.... If you search these on any of the big off-road forums you'll find pics of connectors that look like those that I linked, not the Pico's.

They are not the same, Look at them again. The mil connectors are very rectangular where the Pico's are not at all. Pico is a low-end wiring brand. I don't buy their stuff unless there is no option.
 
ntsqd said:
I won't claim they're "mil-spec", but these are the terminals that I've seen on some military vehicles. Not that I have extensive experience with those.... If you search these on any of the big off-road forums you'll find pics of connectors that look like those that I linked, not the Pico's.

They are not the same, Look at them again. The mil connectors are very rectangular where the Pico's are not at all. Pico is a low-end wiring brand. I don't buy their stuff unless there is no option.
Click to expand...

Close enough.
 
Perhaps. For the small difference in price I'll stick with those I know to work and live as I have had them on several vehicles for years.
 
I got tired of my hat floating around the truck and getting crushed. I undid the dome light screw and used that to mount the hat saver without drilling.

Amazon.com: M & F Western Unisex The Hat Saver Vehicle Rack Silver One Size: Shoes

hat small.jpg
 
I found a LED light at Autozone It is very bright .

http://www.autozone.com/exterior-li...light-select-led-lighting-products/773254_0_0

I had a spare festoon bulb adapter and taped the light to the dome light. The other round light is an older attempt at increasing the interior lighting. The light had a red light option with two bulbs. I rewired the light so all three bulbs worked at once and replaced them with LED bulbs. I can use it with the door closed not as bright as the other light but still good. .
 
While watching Jay Leno's Garage on Youtube the other night I found two items that would be of interest for the 2F motor and other motors for that matter. Both under $50.

Archoil
Key take away:
AR9100 is a Nanoborate-based oil additive which forms a solid boundary lubricating film to reduce friction and provide anti-wear, extreme pressure and anti-corrosion protection to engines, gearboxes and hydraulic systems. AR9100 will result in smoother, more powerful and more efficient operation. AR9100 will reduce wear and help prevent failures during extreme operating conditions. AR9100 also helps keep the crankcase clean and extends oil life

Evans Coolant
Key take away:
Water is an excellent fluid for cooling as long as it remains in a liquid state, but when water turns to steam it has virtually no capacity for heat transfer. Evans waterless coolant is a superior fluid for transferring heat in engines because it remains in a liquid state until above 375°F—well above the operating temperature of an engine.
Note: ALL water must be evacuated from the engine as well as core heaters.
 
Re: Coolant... seems regular antifreeze has it covered... and you can, in a pinch, add water... with this stuff you would be SOL unless you had more of it with you.


boilpt.gif
 
Sorry, I should have copied all the text from the website.


Water is an excellent fluid for cooling as long as it remains in a liquid state, but when water turns to steam it has virtually no capacity for heat transfer. Evans waterless coolant is a superior fluid for transferring heat in engines because it remains in a liquid state until above 375°F—well above the operating temperature of an engine.

Within an engine cooling system, the hottest surfaces are those adjacent to the combustion chamber, specifically the cylinder liners and cylinder head. These hot spots cause water to vaporize, preventing efficient cooling and causing loss of performance and unnecessary engine damage. When the coolant fails in this way the engine becomes even hotter, causing more hot spots and more steam.

Evans waterless coolants will not boil around these engine hotspots, maintaining efficient cooling performance even when the engine is put under extreme conditions. When water turns to steam it pressurizes the cooling system, putting stress on hoses and other components. The significantly higher boiling point of Evans coolants means significantly less pressure than water, resulting in a less stressed cooling system.

Water contains oxygen, which causes corrosion and also allows electrolytic activity which further damages engine metals. Evans waterless coolants eliminate corrosion and electrolytic activity, significantly increasing the life of the engine.


They are claiming that the system will not pressurize and thus put a strain on the hoses and metals it's contained in.
My addition to the thread was because of the conditions were coolant could be an issue for people might help them out. Example: PHX, ABQ, Death Valley and high mountain passes in the summertime. My temp shot up to a quarter away from 'H' in May last year while getting up over Eisenhower and Vail passes. The science sounds legit to me but I could be missing something.
 
Interesting
 
I've seen a lot about Evans Coolant over the years. The part left out of their discussion is that the pressurization of the coolant system raises the boiling point of water based coolants. What isn't well known is that the engine's water/coolant pump raises the pressure inside the block between it and the thermostat. (This is why running w/o a t-stat usually results in a hotter running engine.) I have read first hand accounts where this was shown to be as much as 20 psi. This above the pressure rating of the radiator cap. So an engine with a 13 psi radiator cap could have as much as 33 psi coolant pressure in the coolant passages and one with a 20 psi racing cap could be as high as 40 psi. Do the boiling point calculations at those pressures. Then factor in the inconvenience of the Evans system. Great idea, but no thanks.
 
Sounds like water wetter and slick 50.
 
If you want water wetter, squirt some jet dry in with you coolant. :meh: Plenty cheap whether it works or not.
 
Water Wetter is a surfactant, it reduces the surface tension of the coolant with the idea that the lower surface tension will promote better metal to coolant contact. Which would result in better thermal transfer. I'm convinced that this is true and I have seen it work, but it is at best a small gain. I'm more likely to use it in a race engine that uses only water in it's cooling system than in a system containing any anti-freeze.

Products like Slick 50 are snake oil. Their primary purpose is to separate cash from consumers.
 
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