Any reason not to add Berrymans B12 to the gas or oil?
Berrymans B12 for 2f (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter cvan1971man
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If you watch the Lake Speed Jr. videos (Motor Oil Geek on YT), he is adamant not to add anything to oil. Oil formulations are like a soup (not a steak). The ratio of the ingredients really matter. Just buy the oil that is formulated for what you want. Let the professional chemists do their job. He’s got a video showing how adding ZDDP increases lubricity AND wear simultaneously.
For fuel, I have no idea.
For fuel, I have no idea.
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Berryman B-12 CHEMTOOL FUEL SYSTEM CLEANER (part #0116) is extremely effective in the crankcase for the removal of gum, sludge, and other deposits IMMEDIATELY before an oil change. Because of the amount of cleaning that the product can do, it is not recommended to add it and then drive normally. This is due to the possibility of overloading the oil with deposits. This is not really a concern while idling and letting the oil temperature come up, but excessive deposits could be problematic once load is put on the engine. If you would like to try B-12 as an engine flush, simply pour into your cold crankcase approximately 1½-2 oz. of #0116 per quart of oil capacity. For instance, if your vehicle holds 6 quarts of oil, then you would use 9-12 oz. of or about two-thirds to three-quarters of one can. After you’ve added it to your cold oil, start the car and run it at idle 10-15 minutes until the oil is warmed up. Then change the spent oil and replace the oil filter.
High Mileage - Techron in the tank - for fuel stabalization, my evap. system is kinda hacked, so I think the fuel gets a bit more humidity and evaporation than if I had a working carbon canister.
Lucas - Fuel Injector Cleaner for upper cylinder lubricant - I'm concerned that the cross-hatch on the cylinder walls is worn-down
In my rig, both are used with a less (than the bottle says) is more approach. I really don't know anything about the Shell V Nitro 88-octane gasoline that I'm usually mixing it with. Gasoline burns pretty clean, but, additives contain minerals like manganese. For example, the octane 'grades' of fuel have different additive packages and manganese in the oil will show up because the oil was contaminated from the gasoline additive. Even the Techron labeling talks about how much gas additive you use over the oil-change-interval. Fresh gasoline should be the goal, fuel additives to make up for not being on that target. I keep the tank topped off - three gallons is more than enough to justify a fuel tank top-off.
Instead of an oil flush where you circulate something in addition to oil, try the Valvoline - Restore and Protect. It cleans piston ring land and piston skirts - something no oil has claimed before. But, more important, I'd use it in a brand-new engine, after break-in, as it isn't an engine flush.
I think that I'd put Berryman in the tank. Again, using a fuel additive in moderation.
Lucas - Fuel Injector Cleaner for upper cylinder lubricant - I'm concerned that the cross-hatch on the cylinder walls is worn-down
In my rig, both are used with a less (than the bottle says) is more approach. I really don't know anything about the Shell V Nitro 88-octane gasoline that I'm usually mixing it with. Gasoline burns pretty clean, but, additives contain minerals like manganese. For example, the octane 'grades' of fuel have different additive packages and manganese in the oil will show up because the oil was contaminated from the gasoline additive. Even the Techron labeling talks about how much gas additive you use over the oil-change-interval. Fresh gasoline should be the goal, fuel additives to make up for not being on that target. I keep the tank topped off - three gallons is more than enough to justify a fuel tank top-off.
Instead of an oil flush where you circulate something in addition to oil, try the Valvoline - Restore and Protect. It cleans piston ring land and piston skirts - something no oil has claimed before. But, more important, I'd use it in a brand-new engine, after break-in, as it isn't an engine flush.
I think that I'd put Berryman in the tank. Again, using a fuel additive in moderation.
LakeLaurashawn
SILVER Star
Adding another variable to the conversation - which fuel is being used?
If ethanol free gas, do you need a Berryman type additive or the Valvoline - Restore and Protect?
If ethanol free gas, do you need a Berryman type additive or the Valvoline - Restore and Protect?
I'm using gas with ethanol. The ethanol-free gas they sell here, last time I checked, was like very low on octane, and very high on price.
The fuel additive is there because the evap. system isn't fully working, and I'd use additive with ethanol-free gasoline, for my rig, and how I use it. (A 5W-30 might be too thin for driving hard in intense summer heat, but, this rig has no AC, so, it isn't actially being used that way) I can smell the gas evaporate, like in the summer when I'm standing next to the vent / drilled hole in the gas cap. It probably doesn't need fuel additive, as I went years with just filling up with just pump gas from Chevron and its blend of Techron. I probably put on 2K-miles a year, so if it sits for a week or two, the carb gets kinda dry. The fuel additive also helps keep the intake valves from gumming up with (normal) oiling along the valve stem.
I'm using the Restore and Protect specifically because it claims to keep the rings clean, which will increase the sealing on the piston-side of the motor.
The fuel additive is there because the evap. system isn't fully working, and I'd use additive with ethanol-free gasoline, for my rig, and how I use it. (A 5W-30 might be too thin for driving hard in intense summer heat, but, this rig has no AC, so, it isn't actially being used that way) I can smell the gas evaporate, like in the summer when I'm standing next to the vent / drilled hole in the gas cap. It probably doesn't need fuel additive, as I went years with just filling up with just pump gas from Chevron and its blend of Techron. I probably put on 2K-miles a year, so if it sits for a week or two, the carb gets kinda dry. The fuel additive also helps keep the intake valves from gumming up with (normal) oiling along the valve stem.
I'm using the Restore and Protect specifically because it claims to keep the rings clean, which will increase the sealing on the piston-side of the motor.
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My comment above about oil additives isn’t really directed at engine flushes. Those you should know what you’re getting into.
I keep hoping Valvoline puts out a heavier grade of restore and protect. If not, I might try that next winter at its lighter grade then switch back in spring.
I run my EVAP thru the charcoal filter, a small filter, then it vents to the atmosphere. That killed the fuel smell in the garage.
I keep hoping Valvoline puts out a heavier grade of restore and protect. If not, I might try that next winter at its lighter grade then switch back in spring.
I run my EVAP thru the charcoal filter, a small filter, then it vents to the atmosphere. That killed the fuel smell in the garage.
pbgbottle
Forum Lifer
I throw the B12 in my fuel injected vehicles but not in my carburetor ones. Gas tank. Never tossed it in the oil. But I did read you could I may toss it in my old 4.3 Astro van oil this summer it is acting up sticky valves or bad spider injector. Haven’t figured it out yet. But not in my crusier. Yet haha. I have 6 cans of the B12 in my shop. I use it for sure. Cheap at Walmart.
