Bent Tie Bar (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Sep 30, 2012
Threads
45
Messages
389
Location
Ottawa, Canada
Good morning,

I believe I have a bent tie bar. This is the bar that links the front wheels, just behind the axle?

My steering is off by 10°, as well.

Is this something I can fix by just straightening the bar or do I need to replace it? And, if replacing, should I just upgrade both bars and use new OEM ends?

Thanks,

A.
 
My opinion is the OE TREs are the best option.

Upgrading the rods themselves is a good idea, but pushes the failure point elsewhere, if wheeling hard enough, so the next point to consider is the gearbox, possibly using the 105 sector shaft and pitman arm.

Can to visually see a bend in the tie rod?

Even with HD steering, I still find myself adjusting the drag link to correct steering wheel, after getting deep in the rocks. Honestly don't know what's moving, but it happens and is corrected by adjusting drag link to correct.
 
Adjust your drag link to rotate the steering wheel to where you want it. John
 
Thanks for the replies.

I can easily visually see the bend.

If I adjust the drag rod, I will still have toe-out, right?

A.
 
Yes, the tie rod adjusts toe in/out. If it's bent then you're toe'd out as the rod is shorter now. Bent rods should be replaced. Use OEM ends.
The relay rod adjusts steering wheel center and has no effect on "alignment".
You want approx. 1/8" of toe in.
 
Remove the tie rod from the truck, grab one end like a baseball bat, swing it at a tree, phone/power pole or other wood based object so the tie rod impacts the tree about where the bend starts closest to your grip. Continue until the bend straightens out, re-install in the truck and take for a drive . If the steering wheel is still off adjust your drag link as necessary to straighten the wheel.
 
You can buy a new tie rod with ends for $90. I recently ordered a Moog unit and it showed up stamped "made in Japan" and looked exactly like factory. If nothing else it's better than a bent one.
 
Remove the tie rod from the truck, grab one end like a baseball bat, swing it at a tree, phone/power pole or other wood based object so the tie rod impacts the tree about where the bend starts closest to your grip. Continue until the bend straightens out, re-install in the truck and take for a drive . If the steering wheel is still off adjust your drag link as necessary to straighten the wheel.
Eggzackly!! When you get it pretty straight, you can clamp it onto a section of angle iron and weld it on, or slip a piece of slightly larger tube over it and weld that on. John
 
I ordered a Marlink from Marlin Crawler to replace my oem bent tie rod. Hasn't come in yet but should be a good replacement. Def. cheaper to bend against a tree and re-inforce. I prob. would have done that instead if I read this thread first.
 
Various Options

Called local dealer, they can get it from California for $225.60 :censor:. (I'm in Ottawa)

Other options:

ToyotaPartsZone.com: $113.92 + shipping (OE rod)
http://www.toyotapartszone.com/oem/toyota~rod~steering~tie~45461-60110.html

Slee: $110 + shipping
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/products/products_steering_main.htm

Marlin Crawler: $127 + shipping (Includes rod ends) (out of stock)
http://www.marlincrawler.com/steering/marlink/marlink-fj80-land-cruiser

Bud Built: $130 + shipping (includes powder-coating)
http://www.budbuilt.com/index.php?p...ategory_id=8&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=170

Low Range Off Road: $99 + shipping (includes rod ends)
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/inde...0-heavy-duty-hd-tie-rod-kit-300441-1-kit.html

I'm in rustland, so I'm concerned about the finish. Comments?

Thanks,

A.
 
I'm not that well versed in tie rods and such, but the low range off road unit states in the installation instructions that it is not for on road use. Not sure if its just a legal disclaimer or if there's really something to it. Maybe a more informed member can shed some light on this.
 
Can't go wrong with Slee or budbuilt. I have one of each. Slee tie rod and bb drag link. Same product, different manufacturer.
 
I have both Budbuilt rods on my 80 with a sleeved draglink. Highly recommended.
Or, if you don't go in the woods much, stay OEM.
The whacking against a tree method works to get off the trail or get home, but the rod will not be as strong and will be subject to future damage.
 
I have both Budbuilt rods on my 80 with a sleeved draglink. Highly recommended.
Or, if you don't go in the woods much, stay OEM.
The whacking against a tree method works to get off the trail or get home, but the rod will not be as strong and will be subject to future damage.

Agreed and I just installed the same rods with new OEM ends.
 
Thanks to everyone for their comments and suggestions.

I found an old rod and bought new ends, had a mechanic do the swap. He told me the threads were too damaged and he couldn't get it screwed *in* far enough. So I took it to an alignment shop, who said it was badly toed-in and that the drag-link was seized and thus they could not fix it. At this point I'm rather confused and annoyed.

So, found a hoist, a friend and a tape measure: the tires measure as toed-out by 1.5"! These are 33s. So I *lengthened* the tie rod enough to get the tires within 1/8" of straight, slightly toed-in, the best I could do with a tape measure.

Do you think I'm good to drive 1000 miles in this rig, with my brand new Duratracs?

Thanks,

A.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom