Bent Relay Rod

[bj74redrider]

I crawled under the front end trying to find a clunk that developed after a recent wheeling trip. I found a bent relay rod, and loose TRE's that may be the culprit. I am going to replace both and am looking for recommendations.

Has anybody tried 4x4 labs? any other beefy recommends?

 

[simonliew]

l don't like the spring loaded relay rod ends they use in the 60,70 series.The spring inside the relayrod tends to give a little when turning and you have to turn the steering wheel more than required.
l recommend using all 80 series tierod ends,custom length tierods make from DOM tubing with jamnuts to lock the tierod ends in place just like all the hysteer kit yo ucan buy or make your own tierod using the weldin steering rod bungs you can buy from trailgear,they fit in 1.25"x0.25"wall DOM tubing.
you may have to address the hole on the pitman arm to fit 80 series tierodend.

 

[bj74redrider]

Thanks Simon, I've been thinking the same thing. Has anybody fit a 80 series tie rod in a 70 pitman arm out there?

 

[simonliew]

you can buy the pitmanarm from trailgear that has the right taper for FJ80 tierodend.
Simon

 

[sadam_husain]

I dont know what you guys are paying for those rods but we get the relay rods and tie rods complete with balljoints on both ends for $45NZD (about $38-40USD) from toyota, they dont hold stock here and airfreight them out from Japan to us for that price and they usually arrive within 5-6 days, its not even worth trying to straighten a bent one for that price

 

[crushers]

for the rod itself what i do is take a piece of tube that will fit over the relay and weld it on.
leave enough room for the lock clamp and for the ends to screw in.

stood up very well over the decades

of course picking your trail will greatly reduce the damage too.

 

[kbushnz]

for the rod itself what i do is take a piece of tube that will fit over the relay and weld it on.
leave enough room for the lock clamp and for the ends to screw in.

stood up very well over the decades

of course picking your trail will greatly reduce the damage too.

I have done the same but not welded, just use the clamps to hold it in position.
It sits between them..
I found a length of seamless chrome molly tube which fits over with no slop.
Probably break somewhere else next time.....

 

[sadam_husain]

Probably break somewhere else next time.....

yeah thats why I've always avoided going down that road, would rather try and drive home with a bent rod than a broken balljoint we welded a piece of angle along the length of Tu's draglink at the manauatu round of the trials a couple of years ago after he came back form every hazzard with it bent, the next time he came back it was straight and the tierod end had sheared


you get that upgraded shearpin all sorted in the new winch for easter

 

[kbushnz]

you get that upgraded shearpin all sorted in the new winch for easter

One of my jobs to do.......Got to drop trans and replace oil seal first....
Plus lots of other stuff.....

 

[crushers]

learn to drive?

same as any upgrade, the damage then moves to the next weakest link.

either pick a trail properly or get used to a broken truck.

it really is just that simple.

 

[kbushnz]

I bent mine dropping down a very steep greasy muddy bank....(deep ruts)
Had no choice in where I ended up....
The ruts at the bottom bent the rod in the middle when I stood her on her nose.....
But I did manage to miss the tree

 

[crushers]

yep, crap happens when you are having fun ...
BTDT.

 

[Douglas S]

I'd like to chime in on this.

Based on my recent experience, there is absolutely no way I would recommend upgrading the stock relay rod to anything beefier. You want a fuse.

Even with the stock relay rod I've managed to put a nice twist in the splines of my sector shaft. I've ordered the 105 series upgrade parts and once they're installed, I will replace my slightly bent relay rod with another factory relay rod.

A relay rod is cheap and easy to replace anywhere. A sector shaft? Not so much...