Belt Replacement

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Mar 19, 2005
I just had my belts replaced at a local shop I have heard good things about. After driving off, I found that there is a noticable whine as the engin revs which wasn't there before. Is this likely because the belts are too tight? I need to give the shop a call today so your suggestions are very much appreciated.:) :)


Ed :cheers:
What brand of belts?
CDan's already hinting at the answer...

Betcha you don't have OEM belts installed.

If you can live with the whine (tell people it's turbo charged :D) it's not a problem...
I prefer whine-free belts myself.
IF they are cogged belts (look like they could fit around a gear, with intermeshing teeth) then I bet that is your problem.
I just took off a set of cogged Napa belts from the PO, and replaced with OEM ones from Dan (Thanks Dan!) and don't have a high pitch, almost supercharger like, whine sound anymore. I can actually either hear my valves or fuel injectors ticking away. I took videos of before and after, but I really don't have a place to host 2 videos of 7MB each, that is not limited by bandwidth per day.
I'll bet that is exactly my problem. The belts are Nappa and they are cogged. Why didn't I ask here first before I had them replaced!!!:doh:

Oh well, I guess if it is annoying enough I'll just get new belts and eigther install them myself for have them installed again. The shop only charged me $114 for parts and labor which I think was a pretty good deal.

In your opinion, is there any chance the problem if from the belts being too tight? If not, I don't see any reason for calling the shop about it.

OEM belts

I called around to check prices for the belts on my 94 LC. The Toyota dealership was the cheapest price for the set of 3 oem belts. Total price was ~$23 (other places i.e. Schucks/Checker were at about $35 for all 3) and changed them out myself. Just take your time with the alt adjuster lock bolt. I was able to get it off with a 6 point 1/4" 12 mm but had to hammer on the socket (the bolt head is tapered). Others have recommended removing the battery & tray to gain access to the adjuster screw, but I just wedged my 1/4" drive socket wrench in there between the power steering hoses and bolt and took my time (with Mechanix gloves on!).

expectthebest said:
I'll bet that is exactly my problem.

You will win that bet. You will also be happier with the Toyota belts. If it were me, I would swap them.

Just be sure to go at the tension adjuster screw from the ds wheel well, right Spartan? :) None of that silly removing the battery/tray. :grinpimp:
Get OEM, Dan is the man. Get to know him, he is a great source for good ....very good information and pricing on what you need to do!
drsales said:
Get OEM, Dan is the man. Get to know him, he is a great source for good ....very good information and pricing on what you need to do!

Sucking up, hoping to be spared the knitting needle through the cruiser doll?? :)
:grinpimp: I fear the dreaded pin in the doll program. Tooooo many have suffered the pain, never to be heard from ever again.
I replaced belts last weekend, using nothing but FSM as reference. Wish I had seen the thread posted above.....would have made a PITA job much easier. Embarrassed to admit how many hours I spent, but got it done by trial and error. Suggestions on removing battery box or going thru DS wheel well would have been better than my approach, on my back working from underneath to lossen and tighten the alternator tension adjusting bolt. Sparten is correct, must remove AC drive belt before you can remove the other 2 belts.
Yes - I would suggest using the wheel well approach to loosen and tighten the altenator tensioning bolt. Very easy.

Also - don't forget to use a good six point socket for the alternator tensioning lock bolt. Don't round that head. It's easy to do if you are not careful.

Good luck.

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