Bedliner/oil base/epoxy help for tub

[php74]

Getting ready to coat the interior of my tub. I’ve wire wheeled, cleaned, sos padded, por 15 metal prepped. The tub is solid, some pitted areas, is there anything thicker consistency I can coat with to hide imperfections beside bedliner (I don’t want the scratchy surface)? Want to match dune beige-ish, it’s a trail rig, not a show piece. Have read for hours without a good answer and many threads 10-15 years old too. Thx!

 

[Eric H]

Durabak. Have smoth and quite a few colors.

 

[tjhaga]

If you have small areas of deeply pitted metal, I have sandblasted those areas and applied 3M body panel adhesive 08115. It’s not the cheapest way to go but it sticks well and sands down easily. I then use a high solids epoxy primer such as Utech E250.

 

[php74]

Nice thank you, that helps.

 

[Splangy]

As Eric mentioned, bedliners don’t have to be rough. Here are plenty of quality Berliner products out there that can leave a relatively smooth finish.

Don’t use an adhesive as body filler. Use a body filler as body filler.

And don’t apply anything to that wire wheeled surface. You’re going to need a rough surface profile if you want anything to stick.

 

[Kleatus]

Chassis saver has a thick version that will fill up pits and imperfections. Its a moisture cured urethane like POR. I would prep and epoxy everythung first no matter what additional steps you do.

 

[Splangy]

Chassis saver has a thick version that will fill up pits and imperfections. Its a moisture cured urethane like POR. I would prep and epoxy everythung first no matter what additional steps you do.

It doesn’t make any sense to apply chassis saver over an epoxy.

 

[ginmtb]

I used this works well:

Mastercoat Ultimate Permanent Rust Sealer - Mastercoat® & The Master Series Coating Line - No More Rust™

 

[Kleatus]

It doesn’t make any sense to apply chassis saver over an epoxy.

Curious why not? I like to think epoxy on a sandblasted surface is about as good as you can get with adhesion, and was thinking about the chassis saver / masterseries / etc. as a more durable alternative (not to mention low cost and easy) to bondo or high build primer for filling larger pits and imperfections; not necessarily as any kind of miracle paint. Do you think it's just as well to use the MCU type paint directly to the bare metal? I have some pits and such in my cargo floor I was thinking of addressing in this order. What do you recommend? They mention using it over epoxy on the tech sheet.

 

[Splangy]

Curious why not? I like to think epoxy on a sandblasted surface is about as good as you can get with adhesion, and was thinking about the chassis saver / masterseries / etc. as a more durable alternative (not to mention low cost and easy) to bondo or high build primer for filling larger pits and imperfections; not necessarily as any kind of miracle paint. Do you think it's just as well to use the MCU type paint directly to the bare metal? I have some pits and such in my cargo floor I was thinking of addressing in this order. What do you recommend? They mention using it over epoxy on the tech sheet.

You’re right - an epoxy over a sandblasted surface will give you far better adhesion than the MCU over a questionable (or blasted) surface. The benefit of using those MCU’s is that they’re surface tolerant so there isn’t much point in using one if you’re going to go through the hard work of doing things right and sandblasting and epoxying. Once you’ve laid epoxy down, you can use just about anything (within the recoat window, of course) so why limit yourself to one of those MCU’s? They don’t work as great fillers if you plan on topcoating them with paint. You’ll end up seeing a lumpy, irregular surface from them.

High build primers make better smooth surfaces and bedliners make better lumpy surfaces.

 

[PWCO70crusier]

I rolled raptor liner on my floor and bed. Used a brush for the corners and hard to reach areas. Rolling it (not spraying) left a good finish that doesn't scratch. I believe they can color match at a local paint shop (I just did mine as black)

 

[rustED71]

Monstaliner has some beige-ish colors. It's normally rolled on, but can be thinned and sprayed on as well.

 

[Splangy]

I rolled raptor liner on my floor and bed. Used a brush for the corners and hard to reach areas. Rolling it (not spraying) left a good finish that doesn't scratch. I believe they can color match at a local paint shop (I just did mine as black)

The raptor liner can be color matched quite well and is incredibly easy to spray with a $20 shutz gun.

 

[php74]

Thank you!

 

[Eric H]

I wish they had smooth like durabak. Im definatly going color matched interior when im to that point.

 

[php74]

Yeah, I’m thinking killer beej is really close to my slightly faded dune beige.

 

[Eric H]

https://www.durabakcompany.com/colo...H4e8quqcr1afk9lCKhfnVWquqygKiIeUaAjz6EALw_wcB

Maybe cream could be close enough. About ten years ago i requested color samples and they sent them no problem. Good indication of finished textures also.

 

[php74]

Cream does look close too. Thx!

 

[Xander77]

Has anyone had a bedliner coating peel of over time or rust underneath? Assuming it was applied correctly....
I was going to do the same thing on the interior and undercoating, just worried it wouldn't last then have a mess to clean off.

 

[Eric H]

Custom Coat Custom Colored 8-Liter Gun & Text Bedliner Kt

This is what im going to go with when i get that far.

My only bad experiance was with durabak that did not have a uv coating and it faded from dark blue to light. (I should have payed a little more for the better stuff) it still stuck very well. It will rub off eventally on the interior floors. Everything wears down.

Most of my experiance was with the exterior of a truck. It took rubbing something hard enough to leave a dent or a wire wheel to scrape off.