BeCool Radiator (1 Viewer)

[sfrolich]

Hi,
Anyone using the BeCool Aluminum Rad part# 60167? Thinking of ordering one. I want to get something good since my current radiator has been welded so much it is falling apart. Going to run a non-clutch engine fan and then a manual electric fan in the front. Is there a better radiator out there?

Thanks,
Scott

 

[Rice]

That looks like a super radiator but has a lot of *Bling* to it.

Even though that radiator is custom fit to the cruiser I would think you could install a generic fit (chevy style) radiator (albeit you would have to make some brackets) and save about $300.

In addition, if your old radiator was able to cool your 350 I doubt both sets of fans will be necessary. While my core is thicker than what you're wanting to install, even on hot days I have a hard time getting to an engine temp of 180*. I do run a large clutch fan and a large oil cooler but you get the point.

 

[VTFJ40]

I'm running one with a SBC. Very happy with the cooling ability! With the stock rad I couldn't get the temp under 190 with a 160 thermostat. Now, it doesn't go above the thermostat temp (Ihad to replace the 160 with a 180 to get it to warm up).

The fit is OK cept for the drain. It's nowhere near the factory cutout. I have a black magic electric fan that works well, but I may look for a taurus or clutch fan.

 

[dgangle]

Rice,
What model Griffin radiator is that you are using? How did you mount it? Look kewl.

 

[sfrolich]

Rice, that looks great! I'm looking for a little less work though (I'm a part-time weekend mechanic). Sounds like the BeCool will work well enough to cool my stock 350 (~240 HP).

Scott

 

[nocents]

Rice, that looks great! I'm looking for a little less work though (I'm a part-time weekend mechanic). Sounds like the BeCool will work well enough to cool my stock 350 (~240 HP).

Scott

Take a look at the Man A Fre radiator too. It is made by Ron Davis rondavisradiator.com part# on mine is 16402 (stamped) and 08918A (etched) you might get a better deal going direct. It fits a stock 40 mount (71).

Nocents

 

[Rice]

Rice,
What model Griffin radiator is that you are using? How did you mount it? Look kewl.

Model number is 55222-X. Dimensions are 26 in. Wide, 19 in. High, 3.0 in. Thick
To mount it just did away with the OEM radiator frame and place square tubing between the bottom of the radiator and the orginal frame mounting points (and added some rubber bushings).

 

[dgangle]

What about he shroud? Custom?

 

[Bret]

would the 80103N from AFCO racing be equivalent? It's a 26X19 aluminum, $179 plus shipping.
WWW.AFCORACING.COM

 

[Rice]

would the 80103N from AFCO racing be equivalent? It's a 26X19 aluminum, $179 plus shipping.
WWW.AFCORACING.COM

Not sure. The AFCO site does not mention if that radiator is one or two rows or the tube diameters (1.00" or 1.25"). I suppose you would have to give them a call.

dgangle, the shroud is aluminum I got from Home Depot and pop rivited together.

 

[rockcod]

Check out Radiator Barn, http://radiatorbarn.com/main.asp 4 row stock FJ40 radiator
for $154.70 to your door, they don't charge any shipping if you order on line.

My.02 worth.

 

[Texican]

I run Be Cools exclusively on all my conversions, at least 10 in service, no problems at all cool perfect in Tx 104 degree weather even with AC........ factory shroud works with minor modifications
get the one with the trans cooler, even if you do not have auto, run the PS fluid thru it.
Butch

 

[sfrolich]

I run Be Cools exclusively on all my conversions, at least 10 in service, no problems at all cool perfect in Tx 104 degree weather even with AC........ factory shroud works with minor modifications
get the one with the trans cooler, even if you do not have auto, run the PS fluid thru it.
Butch

Just curious. Why run the PS through the trans cooler? Does the PS have issues with getting hot. Seems like the more connections, the more chance I have of something going wrong...

Thanks, Scott

 

[Texican]

Just curious. Why run the PS through the trans cooler? Does the PS have issues with getting hot. Seems like the more connections, the more chance I have of something going wrong...

Thanks, Scott

You have not got a locker up front or you would not be asking

The fluid gets so hot, you will lose the power steeering and smoke the pump without a cooler, my first run out after the locker, my PS quit and I burned my hand on the reservoir when I was checking to see why.........you run the return line thru the cooler, very low pressure, the FJ60's run a cooler, not a good one but a cooler none the less......

 

[Bret]

FWIW the AFCO should be a 2 core, 1" tubes and 16 fins/inch

 

[dgangle]

Hi,
Anyone using the BeCool Aluminum Rad part# 60167?

I just got a price form Summit on this radiator and I can't catch my breath...all I remember is $600 something! That will buy allot of creativity.

 

[Rice]

I just got a price form Summit on this radiator and I can't catch my breath...all I remember is $600 something! That will buy allot of creativity.

$265 (IIRC) for the one posted in the pic above. $185 if you opt for the 1 inch tubing rather than 1.25".

 

[DocB]

I have heard that if you puncture of damage an aluminum radiator, it is not repairable even at a radiator shop, have to replace it. Not sure though. Recently had to take my (stock) one into a small town for repairs; was able to get it done in about an hour and drive it home. But if you run a non clutch fan, maybe in plastic, chances for damage are less? Also, mine happened due to motor mount breakage off a poorly welded mount. Three causes I have heard of that cause the fan to get into the radiator: broken motor mount, frame flex with the fan too close to the radiator, and broken U Bolts causing driveline shift. I eventually replace it with a 4 core Cool Cruisers Unit; bolt in affair in my V8J60 and no cooling issues yet.

 

[miker]

I just got a price form Summit on this radiator and I can't catch my breath...all I remember is $600 something! That will buy allot of creativity.

I bought one about a year ago and it was $475 from Summit.

I also have the drain issue mentioned above. I don't know why BeCool located the drain where they did. Its useless in my 40.

The other problem I have is when filling the cooling system. They did a poor job of locating the cap. Its below the top of the radiator and creates a problem when filling. I've actually had to vacuum the air out of the cooling system with a hand pump to get the coolent to go in. That sucked.

I am happy with the way it cools my SBC 383. A four row copper/brass with large mechanical fan, good shroud and high flow pump would not keep the 383 cool. This radiator made a big difference. I just don't like the fact that they messed up on some of the details. For $500, and now $600+, it should not have these kinds of design issues.

 

[VTFJ40]

The guy at Be Cool asked to borrow my stock rad to get better dimensions on the drain, but I never heard from him again.

I also run the ps fluid thru the auto trans cooler.