Battery recommendations

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Phares

Mostly Useless
Joined
Aug 29, 2012
Threads
105
Messages
1,147
Location
Charlotte NC
Herman wouldn't fire up this morning. The battery has been going so it didn't really surprise me. I'm leaning towards an optima yellow/red top only because I can get one close but I know their quality has dipped. The other one I'm looking at is a sears die hard platinum. But what have you all bought in the last couple of years? What do you have in your cruiser?
 
I know I'm a little outside y'alls local group but I just had the same thing happen and went for the group 27 at Walmart it was about $90, has 800cca and has a 3 year year free replacement warrant and 2 years more prorated. If you can live with the wet cell it's great bang for the buck.
 
When did optima's quality dip? I am not saying you are incorrect. The last red top I bought was about 4 years ago and I have never had one single issue and that is with me running three amps off of it. I was thinking about getting a new battery for my LX and would have gotten another red top without question, but not if they are having issues. Personally, I am not a fan of die hard platinums because every one the I have previously owned died within 2-3 years. Just my .02
 
Oh damn, so odds are I have a Mexican made battery. Was not aware of that. For what's is worth I have not had one single issue with mine and I am running a lot of other stuff off of it.
 
I run Sears in all my trucks, and people that have been out here know how many that is. I always get atleast 8 years out of them before they go south. I have been running their batteries for over 20 years now straight. I have an Optima in my 80, but it came with it and once it goes out it will get a Sears battery. From what i have seen myself from Optima it has been hit and miss for their batteries since their production went down south. I could / would not recomend them to anyone at this time.
 
I went with peace of mind since this is mostly my DD now. Fired right up. Steep price tag though. 220$ with tax after a 10% discount. It's got the side post option.

ForumRunner_20140104_142725.webp
 
Now upgrade your battery cables to some home built ones and you will notice a night and day difference starting. As long as you use a good cable to build from.

I don't imagine this is difficult but do you just get the supplies from autozone for example? Fittings? What gauge cable do you recommend for battery cables?
 
Now upgrade your battery cables to some home built ones and you will notice a night and day difference starting. As long as you use a good cable to build from.


Clean up the grounds and put in star fangled washers and dielectric grease as well.
 
Both of y'all need to build the correct battery cables for your rigs. Night and day when it comes to starting / anything else. Do both pos and neg cables. Not cheap to build a good set.
 
Use anywhere the cable touches the frame, motor, battery, etc. Good Stuff!

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/?tag=ihco-20


Use these where the ground strap goes to the frame, engine, body, etc:

http://www.amazon.com/Tradespro-835795-Spring-Assortment-720-Piece/dp/B003KWA6E0/?tag=ihco-20

Serves as a lock washer to keep it tight and bites into the metal for a good ground.


"Clean, Tight, Shiny and Bright" that is how the area under the ground strap should look. Take a wire wheel and go down to bare metal. Rust, paint, dirt, no bueno.

I have seen oversized jumper cables at TSC and I think at Ag Supply but like Darin said, it's better to make them.

http://www.delcity.net/store/Solder...t_1.r_IF1003?gclid=CKye_oKm57sCFRBnOgodLlAAwQ

I like to crimp first and then solder but that is just my opinion.

Before you do all this make sure you don't had a drain in the trucks electrical system: take a test light then disconnect your ground wire from the battery and hook a test light to bridge the gap. If it turns on, even faintly, then you have a drain in the system somewhere - Often a bad diode in the alternator. This may be what got you into the situation in the first place. If you pull the alternator wire connector from the harness and the test light goes out - then you have found the drain. If not then you pull each fuse one at a time until the light goes out. Whichever fuse makes the light go out, that is where you drain is.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom