Use anywhere the cable touches the frame, motor, battery, etc. Good Stuff!
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/?tag=ihco-20
Use these where the ground strap goes to the frame, engine, body, etc:
http://www.amazon.com/Tradespro-835795-Spring-Assortment-720-Piece/dp/B003KWA6E0/?tag=ihco-20
Serves as a lock washer to keep it tight and bites into the metal for a good ground.
"Clean, Tight, Shiny and Bright" that is how the area under the ground strap should look. Take a wire wheel and go down to bare metal. Rust, paint, dirt, no bueno.
I have seen oversized jumper cables at TSC and I think at Ag Supply but like Darin said, it's better to make them.
http://www.delcity.net/store/Solder...t_1.r_IF1003?gclid=CKye_oKm57sCFRBnOgodLlAAwQ
I like to crimp first and then solder but that is just my opinion.
Before you do all this make sure you don't had a drain in the trucks electrical system: take a test light then disconnect your ground wire from the battery and hook a test light to bridge the gap. If it turns on, even faintly, then you have a drain in the system somewhere - Often a bad diode in the alternator. This may be what got you into the situation in the first place. If you pull the alternator wire connector from the harness and the test light goes out - then you have found the drain. If not then you pull each fuse one at a time until the light goes out. Whichever fuse makes the light go out, that is where you drain is.