Battery question

[NMBruce]

try to get opinions on a battery set ups. I am replacing my battery, the GX calls for a group 27, but a group 31 will be a really tight fit. Some guys are now running 2 group 34 or 35. I am looking at this for camping, being out in the middle of no place, winching should it be needed.
So looking at only one make of battery, Northstar, A group 31 will give 1150CCA & Resevre of 220mins and a capacity at 20hr rate of 102ah. Each group 35 is 880CCA & resever of 115 mins and a capacity at 20hr rate of 60ah. buy.northstarbattery.com

Are dual batteries needed? With improvements in batteries will one big battery be enough? Would I be better use the one battery and install a cut off to stop battery drain?

Also the area left for a second battery would mean a smaller second than the main.

 

[alia176]

This is a highly debated topic so take this for what it's worth. I've gone both routes but I really like the KISS principle by going with a single, large battery. I used to have a second 80 with a single Group 31 battery in it and still own a '96 80 with dual batts. Both rigs have identical elec draw - winch, laptop, HAM radio, USB ports, fridge, blah, blah, blah. Single battery did fine for years and now my 4Runner is running a single 27F (regular battery, not deep cycle) with the same load as above.

Batteries are consumable items to me so I no longer spend large amount of money in them. The local Interstate battery store (Mor-Co batteries) sells blems for $45 so that's what I run in all of my vehicles. Blems are Interstate batts that are shelf expired or cosmetically damaged but operates perfectly and with a warranty. I'm done with running boutique batteries!

I think running good quality wires to the winch, air comp, various outlets and other loads are very critical and often overlooked by most people. The cables that come with the winches, toss them in the trash and invest in welding wires that are crimped by a swedge machine. Using an aux fuse block that comes with ring terminals vs spade terminals is also important. The temp cycle under the hood often tends to the open up a typical female spade connector over time. Once a terminal becomes loose, a heat junction is created. This in turns leads to voltage loss and current spike and you know what that means!

Anyway, that's my .02 cents worth!

 

[NMBruce]

Thanks, that's the type of answer I am looking for.

I am looking at just going to make this a service item, every 4-5 years, just replace like I would tires, etc.
With being off road away from towns, I think I would worry about a "blems" battery.

I am going to an high output Alternator this summer, so just crawling along, it should charge the system easily.

 

[alia176]

Thanks, that's the type of answer I am looking for.

I am looking at just going to make this a service item, every 4-5 years, just replace like I would tires, etc.
With being off road away from towns, I think I would worry about a "blems" battery.

I am going to an high output Alternator this summer, so just crawling along, it should charge the system easily.

Of course, you must do what makes you feel comfortable but worrying about blems and going with a high output alternator aren't necessary IMO. High output alt are for high end stereo people or those CB dudes that use linear amplifiers and needs 10000 gigawatts of power to talk to another CB dude across the country. For our needs, high output alt are a true waste of money and another source of failure point introduction. Again, just my .02 cents.

 

[NMBruce]

one thing it seems is that for some reason GX alternators seem to go out, doesn't make sense to me, I mean its a Toyota system, the same one you have. My GX alternator was replaced around 75K miles by Lexus records and a lot of guys seem to have problems around 120-140K miles. So if I am going to pay for good new 130A alternator, thinking I will just pay about the same for a 200A alternator.

 

[NMBruce]

whatever I decide on the battery, if single what I think is the way to go, its has to be done by May 14th

I can alway add a second one later if need for some reason.

Thanks Ali for your thoughts. Don't see me going the Blem battery route, but I think you convinced me to do the single battery, group 27 or 31 and I will look at the alternator again.

 

[pappy]

Except for the blem part I agree with what Ali said. I currently run one of those "boutique batteries," a Sears Platinum. It's really too small for my battery tray (size 75/86 DT), but is considered oversize for my truck. It will be replaced at some point with a larger battery (probably a 34/78). This battery is 6 years old and still going strong. Before my last Baja trip I thought about swapping it out as a precaution ... but decided not to. Largely because I have no idea what I want.

Aside from normal needs, I run a fridge in the boonies for days on end. On solar during the day but I turn the fridge temp up and I've never had a problem. I really would like a bigger battery to keep things colder at night.

Using an aux fuse block that comes with ring terminals vs spade terminals is also important. The temp cycle under the hood often tends to the open up a typical female spade connector over time. Once a terminal becomes loose, a heat junction is created. This in turns leads to voltage loss and current spike and you know what that means!

Umm, I use two of those spade terminal fuse blocks under the 4Runner.

 

[alia176]

one thing it seems is that for some reason GX alternators seem to go out, doesn't make sense to me, I mean its a Toyota system, the same one you have. My GX alternator was replaced around 75K miles by Lexus records and a lot of guys seem to have problems around 120-140K miles. So if I am going to pay for good new 130A alternator, thinking I will just pay about the same for a 200A alternator.

Be sure to up your wire gauge to take advantage of the extra current output of the ALT. Some folks run new POS and NEG wires parallel to OEM wires so the voltage drop is minimized. Factory wires aren't rated for the extra current output so they'll just get hot and experience voltage drop. Basically a fire hydrant is connected to a garden hose concept.

 

[NMBruce]

Be sure to up your wire gauge to take advantage of the extra current output of the ALT. Some folks run new POS and NEG wires parallel to OEM wires so the voltage drop is minimized. Factory wires aren't rated for the extra current output so they'll just get hot and experience voltage drop. Basically a fire hydrant is connected to a garden hose concept.

Thanks, I had thought about that and forgot it