Battery isolator question

[rhyary]

Blue sea combiner

I have the Blue Sea 500A combiner. I like the three way switch. It fits the Toyo blank and I can position it to On, Auto, or Off. It has led light that indicate when it the batteries are combined. In addition, it has a starter protection which I like since my ham radios are connected to the aux battery. When I crank the starter it immediately disconnect the aux and the starter pulses don't interfere with the radio.

The Blue Sea combiner is a well built package. It houses the solenoid and electronics water sealed plastic enclosures. The electric posts are tinned copper and heavy duty.

It is a bit complicated to install, but I am very happy with the results. To make everything work you need to tap into the starter signal wire, run bunch of wires from the combiner to the switch. So this is more complicated than necessary.

Mainly I am posting to give another prospective and option. Not saying it is better than the simpler stuff.

Rami

 

[TrickyT]

Rami,
Did you have to modify the switch opening in your dash for the Blue Sea Contura switch? (Hard to tell from your photo, although the text in your post implies it just fits.)

Sorry for highjacking.

 

[TrickyT]

For those that have done a simple solenoid approach for the dual battery set up, do you have LED's in your dash or the stock bulbs? I am having problems with my dash lights (BRAKES, Oil, ATF, etc.) coming on when I tap into the "CHARGE" circuit or a.k.a. Alternator Good signal and it can not engage my soenoid. I can disconnect from the "Alternator Good" connection and go straight to another +12V source and the solenoid engages but does not work when connected.

Has anyone done this sucessfully with the solenoid approach and LED's in the dash?

What I am trying to figure out is, why I can not tap into the "Alternator Good" and trigger my solenoid. When it starts the solenoid does not engage.

I don't have either LED warning lamps or a ACR solenoid, but I did look at the relevant EWD diagrams and fail to see how the alternator Charge circuit could affect the oil level, A/T temp, and brake warning lamps. Those three lamps are controlled by a bulb check relay. The other combo meter warning lamps (the "etc." in your post) are controlled by their respective ECU and come on independently when you first turn the ignition switch to "on." So if none of those lamps are lighting then it's very strange.

ACR solenoids operate by sensing input voltage. The EWD doesn't spec what the alternator Charge/Alternator Good circuit voltage should be when the engine is running, only that it should be 0 - 4 volts with the ignition switch on but engine not running. So maybe your not getting the voltage level you need for the ACR to operate. Have you tried tapping into the alternator output instead? That is spec'ed to be 13.9 - 15.1v at 2,000 rpm with engine cold and 13.5 - 14.3v with the engine hot.

 

[rhyary]

TickyT,
I had to slightly enlarge the opening. Widening IIRC. Was easy.
Then I was able to push the Blue Sea switch into the opening and it locked securely into the spot. I was/am very happy how it fits.

 

[azTony]

Have you tried tapping into the alternator output instead? That is spec'ed to be 13.9 - 15.1v at 2,000 rpm with engine cold and 13.5 - 14.3v with the engine hot.

Nope, have not tried that. I was following George's write up from his web site and thinking I was doing what many others have. I was digging through the EWD myself and I could not see how thoese lamps are lighting up either. I did not get as much information out of it as you did, you must have a better source of information for a 93 than my EWD provides. I have a PDF version and it does not actually say it is for a 93 because the first few pages are not there.

Thanks for the heads up.

 

[TrickyT]

TickyT,
I had to slightly enlarge the opening. Widening IIRC. Was easy.
Then I was able to push the Blue Sea switch into the opening and it locked securely into the spot. I was/am very happy how it fits.

You've got a very nice set up, Rami. The Blue Sea ML 7622 is impressive, serving as both an automatic charge control relay and battery combiner with a contact rating of 500A continuous and 700A for 5 minutes of cranking or winching. Plus the manual override if you need it. And all for around $150. Hard to beat for features and price.

 

[Photoman]

Try this test. Open the under hood fuse panel and pull the 7.5 amp Charge fuse out. With the key on, the fuse blade terminal toward the front should have approx 11.2 volts. The rear terminal around .4 volts. Start the cruiser and both fuse terminals should have around 13.5 volts each.

Bill

For those that have done a simple solenoid approach for the dual battery set up, do you have LED's in your dash or the stock bulbs? I am having problems with my dash lights (BRAKES, Oil, ATF, etc.) coming on when I tap into the "CHARGE" circuit or a.k.a. Alternator Good signal and it can not engage my soenoid. I can disconnect from the "Alternator Good" connection and go straight to another +12V source and the solenoid engages but does not work when connected.

Has anyone done this sucessfully with the solenoid approach and LED's in the dash?