Baseline PM work on 96 FZJ80 (1 Viewer)

[DiscoveredLC]

great, now she'll run like **** with all this work...

haha, I hope so!

Today was a busy day for sure.... I had to go buy a few things to pull the hubs apart this morning. Have to admit Ive never seen a cone washer before.

So I checked and reset BOTH front wheels. When you grasped the DS wheel at 12 and 6 it was way loose. The PS was a tad bit loose, so I took care of that one to. Alignment is set to 1/16" toed IN also.

After that I replaced the radiator, fan clutch, hoses, thermostat, AC idler pulley, and the pulley below the Alt.

I need to get a FSM for torque specs. Can one of you guys check the torque specs on the Pulleys, and the thermostat housing? I tried to search, but couldn't find it.

thanks!

 

[rusty_tlc]

For future reference 54mm = 2.125inches or 2-1/8", which is what I use. They are usually a lot easier to find than the larger Metric sockets.

A copper hammer (Harbor Freight) works great for un-seating cone washers. I sometimes wedge a small screwdriver blade in the split from the side, this makes it easier to slide them off the stud.

After a couple of incidents with the 40 and 100 I am making it SOP to recheck the pre-load on wheel bearings after 100 miles or so anytime I remove the nut.

You might want to check on the 80 forum for a down loadable E copy of the FSM. I found them for all my trucks. I keep them on a thumb drive. Even when I have a hard copy I try to always make copies of the pages I need so I don't screw up the master by taking it in the garage. With the electronic versions I just print the pages I need in the garage.

 

[spressomon]

...You might want to check on the 80 forum for a down loadable E copy of the FSM. I found them for all my trucks. I keep them on a thumb drive. Even when I have a hard copy I try to always make copies of the pages I need so I don't screw up the master by taking it in the garage. With the electronic versions I just print the pages I need in the garage.

How come you didn't apply this thinking with my FSM?

 

[rusty_tlc]

How come you didn't apply this thinking with my FSM?

That why I do it now.

 

[WILLD420]

If you're having trouble with wheel bearings loosening, sometimes you can set them per the FSM, then spin the hub while whacking it with a dead blow hammer. Sometimes the bearings get cocked against the spindle, the whacks with the dead blow won't damage anything and they help the bearing move around a little. Make sure and turn the hub at least 10 revolutions, that should help the bearings seat themselves and settle in for the final torque.

This method works on all the trucks and cars I've ever worked on, but Yota's might be the one to prove me wrong.

 

[alia176]

Matt,

I am in the middle of doing a front axle rebuild on the '97 and found out some interesting tidbits that you may be able to use:

- king pin bearings are actually cheaper from Toyota (mud discount) than any of the local auto stores, including Motion industries. Also, they're the Koyo brand which as you know is very high quality.

- Autozone carries Timken wheel bearings AND seals that are much less expensive than Toyota and works just as well.

- Always buy a pair of extra paper gaskets from the hubs; in case you tear one up.

- I'm going back to the OEM front axle seals vs the Marlin axle seals. I started a thread on this in the 80 section.

- Autozone sells a 4 lb tub of wheel bearing grease!! This is great because the FSM wants you dump a whole bunch inside the hub cavity for what ever reason. I'm sure there's a good reason for this but I don't know it.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Matt,
...

- Autozone sells a 4 lb tub of wheel bearing grease!! This is great because the FSM wants you dump a whole bunch inside the hub cavity for what ever reason. I'm sure there's a good reason for this but I don't know it.

Probably to keep water out of the knuckle, the wiper system isn't exactly hermetic.

 

[DiscoveredLC]

For future reference 54mm = 2.125inches or 2-1/8", which is what I use. They are usually a lot easier to find than the larger Metric sockets.

A copper hammer (Harbor Freight) works great for un-seating cone washers. I sometimes wedge a small screwdriver blade in the split from the side, this makes it easier to slide them off the stud.

After a couple of incidents with the 40 and 100 I am making it SOP to recheck the pre-load on wheel bearings after 100 miles or so anytime I remove the nut.

You might want to check on the 80 forum for a down loadable E copy of the FSM. I found them for all my trucks. I keep them on a thumb drive. Even when I have a hard copy I try to always make copies of the pages I need so I don't screw up the master by taking it in the garage. With the electronic versions I just print the pages I need in the garage.

I'll have to check kragens again, they didnt carry much metric so I went to NC auto parts and bought the 55. I picked up a big brass drift when I was at Harbor freight, and that worked perfectly.

Matt,

I am in the middle of doing a front axle rebuild on the '97 and found out some interesting tidbits that you may be able to use:

- king pin bearings are actually cheaper from Toyota (mud discount) than any of the local auto stores, including Motion industries. Also, they're the Koyo brand which as you know is very high quality.

- Autozone carries Timken wheel bearings AND seals that are much less expensive than Toyota and works just as well.

- Always buy a pair of extra paper gaskets from the hubs; in case you tear one up.

- I'm going back to the OEM front axle seals vs the Marlin axle seals. I started a thread on this in the 80 section.

- Autozone sells a 4 lb tub of wheel bearing grease!! This is great because the FSM wants you dump a whole bunch inside the hub cavity for what ever reason. I'm sure there's a good reason for this but I don't know it.

I'm going to buy a front axle rebuild kit from Onur this fall when all my trips are over. The gear oil is clean from hub grease, so I think i'm fine till then.

I'll have to check your thread on the inner seal, I already ordered the seals from Marlin a few weeks ago when I bought all my PM stuff.

I just got back from my scouting trip up in humboldt county. The truck performed perfectly and was a blast to take out for the first time.

I drove all the way there and back at 70mph and averaged 16.4mpg. Strapping equipment down in the vehicle is a must for me, and I love how toyota mounts the rear seats. The factory mounts make perfect tie down loops. I had all my gear (including the 33" tire) securely strapped down the entire time.

I'll post a few pics later...