Baseline PM work on 96 FZJ80 (1 Viewer)

[DiscoveredLC]

Starting a new thread on what Ive done and what needs to be done to the truck.


So far on the PM list i have done.
oil change
Slee speedo gear in the t-case
Diff fluids changed with new allen drain plugs.

Hopefully my parts will be here monday so I can start flushing the cooling system and replace the radiator.
New hoses, t-stat
Fan Clutch
AC idler pulley and the other pulley that sits below the Alt.
PCV Hoses, grommet, and valve.
Spark plugs, and wires.
CDL switch

 

[DiscoveredLC]

Another newb question....

Ive been searching/reading in the 80 tech section on flushing the cooling system. If I drain the radiator and the block, do I just fill up the radiator and thats it? Or do I need to add water to the block somehow? I'm sure the water will flow from the DS top radiator hose down into the block, right? I'm worried that not having any water in the block while waiting for the t-stat to open is bad for the engine...

here's my plan for tomorrow and the next few days...
Drain radiator, and block.
perform the heater core enema
fill up with tap water, drive around for a few, drain, fill, and repeat that several times during the week.
Then when saturday comes (I actually have the day off for once!) drain the system, replace the radiator, t-stat, and all the hoses.
Fill the radiator with toyota red and distilled. Should be 4 gallons total? 2 red, 2 distilled?

good?

 

[locrwln1]

Another newb question....

Ive been searching/reading in the 80 tech section on flushing the cooling system. If I drain the radiator and the block, do I just fill up the radiator and thats it? Or do I need to add water to the block somehow? I'm sure the water will flow from the DS top radiator hose down into the block, right? I'm worried that not having any water in the block while waiting for the t-stat to open is bad for the engine...

here's my plan for tomorrow and the next few days...
Drain radiator, and block.
perform the heater core enema
fill up with tap water, drive around for a few, drain, fill, and repeat that several times during the week.
Then when saturday comes (I actually have the day off for once!) drain the system, replace the radiator, t-stat, and all the hoses.
Fill the radiator with toyota red and distilled. Should be 4 gallons total? 2 red, 2 distilled?

good?

Yep, just let it idle until the t-stat opens (with cap off) until it starts to pull the water into the block, have the garden hose handy, and keep it full, also fill the overflow bottle. Put the cap on, and drive it a short distance, check the overflow, top it off, repeat until the level stabilizes and you should be good. Don't forget to have both heaters on to make sure they are full and circulating.

Jack

 

[rusty_tlc]

..... Don't forget to have both heaters on to make sure they are full and circulating.

Jack

That's one of the joys of doing a cooling system flush in the summer.

 

[DiscoveredLC]

so right now i'm sitting at home wondering how in the h#ll do you get a wrench on that 12mm PHH bolt? The bolt that holds the metal pipe is in a spot were it seems impossible to get a wrench to....

 

[locrwln1]

so right now i'm sitting at home wondering how in the h#ll do you get a wrench on that 12mm PHH bolt? The bolt that holds the metal pipe is in a spot were it seems impossible to get a wrench to....

The one on the back of the manifold? Gearwrench (or the like), will make your life so much easier.

Jack

 

[DiscoveredLC]

yup.... im just going to try and get the hose on without loosening that bolt. If not, i guess ill have to buy a new 12mm wrench.

The 5/8" gates heater hose I bought isn't super stiff, so I might be able to get it on. It's just plain black heater hose, so hopefully thats good stuff.

 

[DiscoveredLC]

or maybe not.... just cut the hose off and I didnt think the pipe was that close to the nipple on the block. $hit....

edit: went to the home cheapo and bought some angled ratcheting wrenches, and that worked. I put everything back together, and the top bolt is in, but not the bottom. I'm not sure if I can get it back in since my hands wont fit back there...

 

[rusty_tlc]

Do you have a 3/8 swivel joint?
I have found them to be invaluable to get bolts into remote places.


If you can barrow an 8 year old sometimes they can get their hands in cramped spaces.

 

[DiscoveredLC]

Do you have a 3/8 swivel joint?
I have found them to be invaluable to get bolts into remote places.


If you can barrow an 8 year old sometimes they can get their hands in cramped spaces.

i might have to borrow a skinny friend at work... The only way I was able to get it off was with the wrench, but its a different story trying to get the bolt started again...

The top holds the pipe in place just fine, so I dont think the bottom bolt is crucial.

 

[thumper]

I had issues with that pipe when I did mine. After hours of trying, cussing, swearing, I finally said screw it and bypassed it. I have one solid hose from bottom to top. Not going to worry about it. Sounds like you are progressing nicely on the maintenance.

Jon

 

[OGBeno]

Get rid of the metal bracket/hose and put one long hose from the heater valve to the PHH. Way easier for the long term.

 

[DiscoveredLC]

i might do that next time, but its in with a new piece of heater hose, clamps, and the top bolt holding the pipe firmly in place. I found some sludge (maybe 1/4") in the overflow bottle, but that was it. The radiator had no sludge in it from what I could see, I was actually pretty surprised considering how bad the fluid was. The fluid was almost as dark as used motor oil. Back flushed the heater cores and I didnt see any signs of sludge there either, just the crappy coolant.

I'm still going to put the new radiator in on saturday (might as well, I already bought it...) along with the new T-stat and pipes.

 

[DiscoveredLC]

Parts came today, thanks Onur!

So today I replaced the PCV valve, grommet, and hoses. The grommet was a PITA like everyone said, but all of it came out. I also replaced the spark plugs and wires while I was at it.

The spark plugs all looked the same and in good condition. Here's a pic looking down the PCV valve opening, lots of gunk in there. Normal for a 14yr old truck?

 

[DiscoveredLC]

Is there any place in town that sells the 54mm hub nut socket?

I did an alignment on the truck this morning and the DS front wheel bearings are WAY loose.... That would explain why the wheel gets a tad bit shaky when I go over bumps on the freeway. So much for going scouting for my antelope hunt on tuesday...

edit: NC auto parts has a 55mm socket for $15. Wonder if I should go with that or order one from Marlin.

 

[locrwln1]

Is there any place in town that sells the 54mm hub nut socket?

I did an alignment on the truck this morning and the DS front wheel bearings are WAY loose.... That would explain why the wheel gets a tad bit shaky when I go over bumps on the freeway. So much for going scouting for my antelope hunt on tuesday...

edit: NC auto parts has a 55mm socket for $15. Wonder if I should go with that or order one from Marlin.

55 will work, but I got my 54mm from Kragen.

Should be very easy to pop the dust cover off, remove snap ring, drive plate off (brass drift, leave nuts on to unseat cone washers), bend the tabs back, take the "lock" nut and tab off, reset the inner nut, put tab back on, "lock" nut, bend tabs, re-install drive plate, snap ring and dust cover, can be done in about 30-45 min. start to finish. You don't have to "re-pack" or disassemble the hub/bearings. I have had to re-snug mine after servicing the front and rear bearings. It is very hard to get right the first time, especially if the bearings/races were replaced.

Jack

 

[RAYJON]

in your baseline look at the oil pump housing and see if the gasket is leaking fix it..... if you are doing a coolant flush its way easier to do with the radiator out...and you will almost be there with the hoses and other stuff...

BTW the power steering hose is a known leaker and if you dont like the price through toyota napa has a cheep replacement....

San Bernardino toyota online is cheep for toyota stuff....

good luck and congrats...

 

[DiscoveredLC]

I picked up the socket from NC, now I just need to go get a brass drift...

The front end is almost identical to the Rover, except for the cone washers. Ive never seen those before, so hopefully they wont give me a problem. Do you just catch the lip of the drive plate with the drift and try and pop it off? Or somehoe use the drift on the washers (without bending the stud?)

 

[DiscoveredLC]

found it...

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/78276-front-axle-rebuild-faq.html

 

[alia176]

great, now she'll run like crap with all this work...