Ball Joints and Tie Rods (1 Viewer)

[jammingator]

I’ve wondered about the paint holding. I’ve degreased but the surfaces aren’t real paint “conducive”.

 

[jammingator]

@2000 LC looks like the dust cover/seal on back side of the knuckle is getting old. Ordered a couple of new ones to replace. Any tips on that? What is the thick, yellowish lube I see and on the the cv joint side - bearing grease ok there?

 

[2001LC]

I recondition steering knuckle while out. I de-rust and clean with a ploy rust/paint remove wheel, I found works best. I use solvent HP water and HP air to get axle bearings spotless and inspect. Install oil seal with a flat piece of wood (oak). I then blow off with HP and pack with M1 grease.

These days I grease after the oil seal is in. Then blow out dust with HP and pack axle bearing and bushings with grease.

Important too seat evenly, which is leaves about 3mm.

 

[jammingator]

Outstanding, thank you!

 

[2001LC]

You're welcome!

 

[jammingator]

@2001LC what lube is the thick, yellow stuff in this image from another of your outstanding threads. Are you saying above that bearing grease ok for that? Thank you very much for the wealth of info you have provided over time, very generous!

 

[2001LC]

The factory grease on axle bearing & bushing. Is a lithium soap based synthetic #1 grease.

I just use same grease as wheel bearings for axle bearing & bushing. Which for my shop is Mobil 1 synthetic wheel bearing grease #2.

The thick yellow grease on oil seals outer rim inside the lip. Is factory grease that comes on new oil seal. I always replace the oil seal.

 

[jammingator]

Gotcha, I’m going to have to look again, I did not see it on my new seals ( still in pkg).

 

[Seth7843]

I found that cutting the lower part of the upper ball joint made pressing them out really easy. No need to stack adapters and you have plenty of room to work. 20 seconds with a cutoff wheel saves you a ton of time.

 

[cmw]

Used this thread for confidence in pulling an upper ball joint. Stacked and restacked adapters a couple of times. Just a 10pc press set won't do it - I went with the basic 27023 press plus the 27310 "Master Adapter Set" from Autozone. Looks like the Powerbuilt #46 set from Advancea Auto Parts would also do the trick.

Other than really pushing to get the new joint fully seated, putting in the new was easier than getting out the old.

Just knowing it definitely can be done in place was 85% of it for me.