Ball Joints and Tie Rods

[jammingator]

Yes, paint the outer tie rod end. I'm pretty sure Cruiser Outfitters says that on their site also. If you don't rattle can that bare steel, it will be all rusty in no time.

A lot of people, myself included, have had good results from replacing the leaking CV boot clamps with worm screw ones from McMaster Carr. 5574K25 for the large and 5574K16 for the small.

Thank you sir!

 

[jammingator]

Having a little trouble finding a cup that helps get the UBJ off. It's funny I used the press on the LBJ but it didn't come out until it put the 2.5 lb hammer to it - just a couple of strikes and it popped right out. Can't do that with the UBJ though....

 

[jammingator]

Got it with this combination on the bottom!

 

[jammingator]

Ok, last update of the day - started install with UBJ and am trying to get it to go in straight. I remember someone described "walking" it in so that's my strategy after thinking it was going in straight but it was a bit crooked - outside going in faster than inside. Got the outside lifted back up and tried a couple of times to get it to go by walking it in to no avail. Now I'm out of time for today, back at it tomorrow.

Would be glad for any helpful hints on the UBL install. Thanks!

 

[gregnash]

Yes just lubing so simply taking the rim & tire off to fix a flat, etc is a little easier!

I have heard of some doing that, but really you should look at WHY that is happening. Is it just because it is dirty or are you in an area with lots of road salt/grime this time of year, etc. But yes, you can grease that area and that will help with removal of the wheel later on down the road.

 

[gregnash]

Ok, last update of the day - started install with UBJ and am trying to get it to go in straight. I remember someone described "walking" it in so that's my strategy after thinking it was going in straight but it was a bit crooked - outside going in faster than inside. Got the outside lifted back up and tried a couple of times to get it to go by walking it in to no avail. Now I'm out of time for today, back at it tomorrow.

Would be glad for any helpful hints on the UBL install. Thanks!

yeah that was @2001LC that talked about walking it in, in another Ball Joint thread.

 

[jammingator]

Wish I could have got the driver's side back together yesterday as a cold wind is blowing this morning! I have some office work to do then back at it.

@2001LC comments in the linked thread had to do with getting the UBJ out but looks like they can apply to getting it in as well. I've lined up straight as I can get it but it wants to press the side closest to the outside of the vehicle in first. It's not far off but it's off. Today I think I'll try to shim the press if I can't get it to go in straight by walking it in.

Can you replace upper and lower ball joints???

The uppper ball joints are kind of a pain to press in and out, but the job is possible with a little heat and a harbor freight press No need to take the UCA out first. That's the beauty of that little clamp-press.

forum.ih8mud.com

I did use a ratchet strap like @screendoor in this thread to pull the UCA down to try to get a straight shot.

Clarification on ball joint replacement

So I searched and read through the forums about the 555 upper ball joints. My question is...can those uppers be replaced using the clamp style tool (link below) or is a Floor press required?

forum.ih8mud.com

Any other thoughts? How about on shimming?

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Wish I could have got the driver's side back together yesterday as a cold wind is blowing this morning! I have some office work to do then back at it.

@2001LC comments in the linked thread had to do with getting the UBJ out but looks like they can apply to getting it in as well. I've lined up straight as I can get it but it wants to press the side closest to the outside of the vehicle in first. It's not far off but it's off. Today I think I'll try to shim the press if I can't get it to go in straight by walking it in.

Can you replace upper and lower ball joints???

The uppper ball joints are kind of a pain to press in and out, but the job is possible with a little heat and a harbor freight press No need to take the UCA out first. That's the beauty of that little clamp-press.

forum.ih8mud.com

I did use a ratchet strap like @screendoor in this thread to pull the UCA down to try to get a straight shot.

Clarification on ball joint replacement

So I searched and read through the forums about the 555 upper ball joints. My question is...can those uppers be replaced using the clamp style tool (link below) or is a Floor press required?

forum.ih8mud.com

Any other thoughts? How about on shimming?

I pulled the UCA out. Two cam bolts and a couple of brake line bolts and it’s out and way easier to work with. 10 minutes of effort to stop struggling with the UBJ...

 

[jammingator]

Got it! Went right in! Used the snap ring from the lower ball joint as the shim. Put it on the inside (closest to motor) first because that was the side not going in yesterday. It went right down today but then got ahead of the outside (closest to wheel) so stopped to switch the shim to outside and finished the press just like that. Here’s a pic with shim on inside:

 

[jammingator]

Shim on outside

 

[jammingator]

Here’s the setup I used to get the UBJ in:

 

[jammingator]

Driver side ball joints done, on to the tie rod ends!

 

[jammingator]

What I used for LBJ install

 

[2001LC]

Where removing UCA is certainly and option. It does require and alignment job after. You can mark it, but still best to get alignment when done.

For those yet to do this job. Removing in place is actually easy, saves time and money. Cup on top to press into, bare tool on bottom pressing into top cup. Move bare end of tool, form side to side frequently and walk out.

Installing, the trick is to remove the rubber boot from ball joint Then find the cup that fits tight. So tight it will not fit with boot on. Otherwise it will likely go in at angle and you'll fight it.

 

[jammingator]

Agreed thanks @2000 LC, good stuff! Learned on the driver side and hoping the passenger side goes smoother for the experience. It’s a time consuming job with tear down and learning curve but definitely doable.

 

[jammingator]

Well, we’re under a stay at home order here in KC so I’ve been able to work on it in between being slammed with work (stuck in my home office!). In addition to both ball joints and both tie rod ends, I re-clamped inner cv boot. Used Redline CV-2 through a needle on my grease gun to pump through end of boot. Pumped until it pushed old grease out and new grease started coming out then pushed boot back into joint to move grease up into the joint. Not perfect but it’s better than it was. Used the NAPA crimp clamps but will replace with Mcmastet Carr when they come in. Decided to do stabilizer bar bushings, will have them tomorrow. After I put them put them in, I’ll clean and touch up some of the rust, clean and grease the needle bearings and start putting it back together. Here’s a current view, driver’s side.

 

[jammingator]

Needle fitting I used for CV boot grease. Lincoln brand.

 

[jammingator]

Here’s a pic of walking the passenger side UBJ out

 

[jammingator]

Passenger side current situation, getting ready to paint

 

[2001LC]

I know guys are painting these replacement ball joints. But unless metal etched and primed, I doubt paint holds. I just rub with marine grease.