Ball Joint Splitter (1 Viewer)

[RPN]

Looking for a delve into the hive mind knowledge base...

I have a tool box in the back with pretty much everything needed for non catastrophic repairs - for example I can do a set of wheel bearings or similar level stuff with what I have, but I need a ball joint splitter. I have a fork and hammer, but they destroy the rubber gaiter so I'm looking for a screw type.

What are people using? I don't want to buy something and find it doesn't fit, so I'd appreciate hearing brands and models if possible.

Cheers, Ross

 

[Rusty Marlin]

I have two types, a scissors version for tie rod ends and a wheel puller version for pitmans arms.

The both are from HF and they both work as designed.

They

 

[ppc]

Ball joints? 80's don't have ball joints so I'm assuming you mean tie-rod-ends. If you search using the proper terminology you will be rewarded with the information.
BTW, Birfields can be serviced without removal of the tie-rod-ends. Suggest watching YouTube videos posted by user OTRAMM

 

[RPN]

Ball joints? 80's don't have ball joints so I'm assuming you mean tie-rod-ends. If you search using the proper terminology you will be rewarded with the information.
BTW, Birfields can be serviced without removal of the tie-rod-ends. Suggest watching YouTube videos posted by user OTRAMM

Yeah, good on you. Typically tie rod end splitters are also sold as ball joint separators, but getting the words right is important.

Not sure why the comment on the Birfields, but thanks for the advice.

 

[Squeegee]

Hammer

 

[SpenserAK]

I like this style. I’m cheap wherever possible and so rarely touch TREs, I just rent it from O’Reillys for free under the evertough name. Has a nice little “cup” to hold the end in place. “Tie rod remover” gives good results for buying, and maybe try adding “non damaging” or “damage free.” This style commonly comes up as OTC brand. There are similar options where the opening for the TRE is not round, but I like the round fitment.

I think the birf comment assumed if you’re removing the TREs, you’re servicing the birfs/axle rebuild stuff.

 

[Saito]

Got this one at NAPA. It’s paid for itself already.

 

[RPN]

I looked at the hinged type and wondered how much they would flex in use - you are happy with them it seems.

 

[robnicko]

i used one of these for my relay rod ends recently and it worked a treat

ToolPRO Tie Rod End and Ball Joint Separator

ToolPRO Tie Rod End and Ball Joint Separator

www.supercheapauto.com.au

 

[Shipwreck]

After using the typical fixed TRE remover, I switched to the larger hinged one that @Saito posted above. It works well on both the rod ends and the steering arm.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Got this one at NAPA. It’s paid for itself already.
View attachment 3152433

Now that design looks perfect! Looks a bit flexible in terms of size.

I've tried and destroyed every type above except the pitman arm puller style.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

I found they work best if you load them up good and tight and swatt the end over the stud with a BFH.
No fuss, no muss, no struggle.

 

[BILT4ME]

Actually, if you tighten them, then hit the TOP of the Steering Arm, the joint will come loose easier.

 

[calokie]

i used one of these for my relay rod ends recently and it worked a treat

ToolPRO Tie Rod End and Ball Joint Separator

ToolPRO Tie Rod End and Ball Joint Separator

www.supercheapauto.com.au

I used the Harbor Freight version of this, it get pretty violent when it breaks free. But it worked on a 97 with 350k miles.
In the future ill buy the larger prong style .

 

[Heckraiser]

I use the scissor type similar to that posted by @Rusty Marlin and @robnicko . If I aim carefully, no boot damage. Works pretty easy and easier to position than an arm-type separator, IMO.

 

[Dave 2000]

Got this one at NAPA. It’s paid for itself already.
View attachment 3152433

Whilst there ways of releasing such joints without special tools using one like this if fine, but not without a nut in place. If the joint is to be reused you may find the thread has been damaged or the thread mount has 'spread', this would prevent the nut going back on.

Regards

Dave

 

[Ragnaroek]

Two Hammers always did the job for me, but i like the concept of Saito's NAPA puller.