Bad Radiator?

[sailor95]

So I completed my timing belt job about a week ago and it was a hard one but I learned a lot. Well now I got back home from thanksgiving at the parents last night and I noticed my car was spewing white smoke from the front and I could hear air coming out too. Is my radiator popped at 319k? I've never replaced it so I'm not sure if it is original or not. I've checked every day for leaks and bad connections from the TB water pump job and haven't seen any. If anyone else has had experience with a popped radiator on these your suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[ponytl]

your inspection will tell ... the failure point is usually the seam at the top tank to fins... I've had good luck with the $100 ones off ebay but you can spend more

 

[sailor95]

Alright, I'm getting a pressure tester on it tonight to hopefully find it, is there anyway to patch the leak? Just college student on a budget and the previous job I did hit the wallet pretty good

 

[Mike6158]

Mine started "using water" when I was in Death Valley a few years ago. I could never see the leak because the previous owner didn't have any or at least very little coolant in it so what leaked would evaporate. I should have checked it when I bought it but didn't, lessons learned. I drove it all the way back to TX and didn't have any issues. I started adding coolant to the overflow box, instead of water, and eventually I could see the neck seam leaking and the top tank seam. I replaced the radiator, which is an extremely easy job, and all is well

 

[sailor95]

So you think until I get the funds up that don't bankrupt me I should be ok adding water/coolant, also does anyone have a remedy for a temp gauge that does not work, mine hasn't worked in a while and now it's probably time to fix that as well

 

[Mike6158]

Oh no... coolant does a lot more than just raise the boiling point. Hot water by itself is corrosive. Using just water or inadequate coolant is grounds for facing firing squad at a minimum, kidding of course, but it is a terrible idea.

I think I got lucky. Mine wasn't leaving puddles and it lost water until it got below the seam and then stopped losing. So I could just add coolant (or water when I was in DV) every couple of days. However, if the tank had failed I would have been screwed and had to pay labor and parts cost. The radiator install is unbelievably easy

 

[ponytl]

you are in GA so it's not going to freeze anytime soon, just add water and run it and watch for leaks.... IF it's not leaking bad... then run it with no pressure ie... keep the radiator cap loose that way it will not pressurize and force the coolant (water out) yes you can run it this way for short drives and AS LONG AS YOU HAVE WATER IN IT it will not be damaged (unless it's a huge leak and most are on these radiators) check ebay pretty sure they are still less than $100 delivered
YOU DO NOT need to run this engine hot

 

[ponytl]

2282 RADIATOR FOR TOYOTA LEXUS FITS LAND CRUISER LX470 4.7 V8 8CYL | eBay

 

[Mike6158]

That's a really good price!

 

[sailor95]

Yea I agree, hopefully I can find the funds, I found this under the driver side of the radiator, looks like some Toyota red to me

 

[sailor95]

Also the coolant reservoir is almost dry except for a little bit sitting in the bottom and I'm not sure of the level of the radiator but from having the cap open I can't seek anything in it

 

[Mike6158]

I filled mine with the coolant bottle. Bring it up to the "cold" line if it's cold and "hot line if it's hot. Drive, check, top off.

I've heard of dyslexia but I apparently had a "temp"orary version. Corrected

 

[ponytl]

with engine running fill through the radiator cap just use water let it warm up, cap still off watch for coolant circulating... watch for leaks with cap off... if you spot nothing put the cap on it will build pressure in the system... look for leaks... once you spot leak turn engine off and let cool if it is a small leak and you don't have to drive much and it only leaked under pressure you could drive it with the radiator cap loose so that it doesn't build pressure... but carry gallons of water with you and watch it very close... it ain't worth ruining an engine for a $100 radiator or $20 hose

 

[PLROD]

you should not use tap water in your cooling system. use either distilled water, costs just over a buck a gallon at cvs, walgreens, etc. or better yet use an anti-corrosion additive sold in parts stores which costs about 3 bux a gallon.

tap water contain minerals and many other contaminants which are not good for your cooling system.

 

[ponytl]

tap water is fine if you are just going to check for leaks, short term there is no need to spend $ for something that might drain out as fast as you put it in, btw I'm not in the "toyota red" school any antifreeze that says "ok for all engines/makes ect" is fine IMHO and never buy 50/50 mix thats like buy'n $9 a gallon water...

 

[2001LC]

So you think until I get the funds up that don't bankrupt me I should be ok adding water/coolant, also does anyone have a remedy for a temp gauge that does not work, mine hasn't worked in a while and now it's probably time to fix that as well

You may find your temp gauge does work once coolant system if full (Radiators to top of cap neck & system burped).

With low coolant level the temperature sending unit has nothing to read. This is number one reason engine overheat, while driver sees low temp reading on instrument gauge.

you should not use tap water in your cooling system. use either distilled water, costs just over a buck a gallon at cvs, walgreens, etc. or better yet use an anti-corrosion additive sold in parts stores which costs about 3 bux a gallon.

tap water contain minerals and many other contaminants which are not good for your cooling system.

I agree with not using tap water, but I' avoid any and all additive. That said; I'd use river water filter through my shirt if necessary, only if demineralized water was not available.

DIY flushes never gets 100% fluid out. I buy 7 gallon d-water when flushing, but even then I don't get 100%, it only dilutes that last gallon in system. So if any contaminates like mineral water (tap) are introduce, it's best to have shop flush with fluid exchange machine using Toyota premix 50/50 (pricey). They run through heater lines, wherein the case of rear heat/air, about 1 gal resides.

You can run 100% water, or coolant for short term test only. Coolant and cooling systems are designed for a 50/50 mix.

I always buy 100% Toyota red LL and mix in D-water. I baby my coolant system and have 170K miles on water pump now.

You can upgrade to Toyota SLL, but best again to have shop flush to get out old LL IMHO.

 

[sailor95]

2282 RADIATOR FOR TOYOTA LEXUS FITS LAND CRUISER LX470 4.7 V8 8CYL | eBay

Will this fit my 2000? and it seems it was made by sunbelt radiators does anyone have any experience with that brand?

 

[ponytl]

Will this fit my 2000? and it seems it was made by sunbelt radiators does anyone have any experience with that brand?

I've used several of them it seems all the made in china radiators come out of the same factory,
chance are you will receive a 2 row vs a 4 row ... which has been addressed here... it will work fine in your 2000 I'm running 2 of them now.... both in service for over a year, you can spend more$ but I'm not sure you will not receive the exact same same item...