bad alternator or battery? LC, 07, 195k, alternator was replaced ar 145k

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Those overhead DVD with player in rear cargo area, are notorious for parasitic drain on battery. (Google how to test for parasitic drain)

Under the dash on PS below glove box at far right are two (IIRC) inline fuses. One is always powered the other is IG key on powered. The red wire was always on in the 06LC I was working on. Do a parasitic battery drain test with that fuse in than again out.
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In above thread I was searching down aftermarket wires. I found the DVD was my draining battery while parked, and others have also. They are install here in the USA not at factory, is my understanding. You'll also see a way to remove the DVD player from rear, without pulling the whole side panel off. Easy once I figured it all out.

You can keep fuse in for kids to watch moves while on the road. Then pull out for over night parking.
 
Thanks for the replies! Took the LC to Azone and they checked the alternator as did the Toyota dealership and both said the alternator was good. I'll try to pull the fuse on the DVD player (never use it anyway).
 
I never understand why people won't spend $150 on a new battery after having issues with a 4 year old battery. IMO its not worth the headache, and I would buy a new battery ASAP.
 
Those reman'ed alternators usually don't replace the brushes. I've put 3 into a corolla in a couple of years. I bought new brushes for it and stopped replacing the full unit.
 
Since Toyota battery wa about 4-5 years old - put new Interstate Megatron battery. Bought digital multimeter ( had analog before). Voltage before turning the car on - 12.5; with car running - 14.3. No drop after turning lights, radio, heater. I did not drive it much yet - for about an hour.
Should I attribute battery light coming on to bat battery? Does "disconnect the battery" to test alternator approach does not work for LC100? The car did shutdown once I tested this way with old battery - do not really want to try it again.
Could this mean that alternator is having intermittent problems?
 
NEVER remove battery terminals while the engine is running. Battery tells the alternator regulator about the voltage and once disconnected alternator has no clue about what voltage it has to produce and may send a higher voltage frying all your electronics.

Just do few short trips around town and see how it performs. The voltages you reported are good numbers. STAY AWAY from part store batteries: My cousin went twice on an A-zone battery within an year and A-zone refunded 50% for his 2nd dead battery. He went with Bosch and lasted 3 years. I go with JOHNSON CONTROL batteries and never worry for 5 years.

My LC is the 3rd car at home and it usually sits 10-20 days without running the engine. I never have a problem when I try to start it.
 
I agree on Auto Zone battery they do not last and no warranty without receipt.

A very common issue is oxidation on battery post and clamps. It's a thin layer of gray, looks like nothing concerning, but it is. It increases resistance, which then we do not get a full charge. I no longer use the red stuff on clamps after attaching. If that stuff leaches in between post and clamp it acts like oxidation.

Sulfation occurs when a lead acid battery is deprived of a full charge.

I read once in "Toyota something" don't grease post. IMHO that is wrong. I always clean battery top and area with baking soda and water solution to neutralize acid. Then clean and grease post with white lithium grease. I snug down clamp on post until clamps will not turn on post, over-tightening will damage clamps.

I've now also started cleaning the entire post terminal wire block clamps is attached too. If a see and white cake between fitting.
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is the battery light still coming on after replacing your battery? if so, the battery light is telling you that the charging system (mainly alternator) is malfunctioning, as per the owners manual and should at least be tested. after driving around for an hour, pull over, keep engine running, meter out your battery (putting the black lead on an engine hook, red on the + battery post) and it should read about 13.6-8v. much outside of that and your alt is probably dead. a dead/dying alternator will quickly kill a brand new battery.
 
Battery light is not coming on anymore (at least so far). I will drive around town for another week and see what will happened. Thankfully I have another car for longer trips so this is not an emergency. Will keep the post updated with the results.
Old battery posts were clean.
 

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