I have a 72 FJ40 and i'm not sure what model axle I have because the conversion was done before I bought it. Can anyone tell me what model this is? I know the pic is small but anything would help. Thanks.
Axle Model
- Thread starter mdjohnsen
- Start date
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Cube Dweller
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It looks like any/every mini truck/runner rear axle. 2 different widths, 79-85 is narrower than 86-95. Don't recall the numbers but I'll dig around.
looks like a late (Wide) one, i can tell by the way it necks down between the pumpkin and spring perch, Im guessing 86-94... WMS-WMS would be 58"
55" for the SAS Trucks Pre-86
Pretty strong axle, and relativley cheep gears/Upgrades..
55" for the SAS Trucks Pre-86
Pretty strong axle, and relativley cheep gears/Upgrades..
- Thread starter
- #4
What type of brake shoes should I get? They need to be replaced pretty bad. Also, I am looking to replace all of my fluids. What type of gear oil and weight should I use?
Cube Dweller
Moderator
mdjohnsen said:
I run cheap shoes in the back. Not sure I can say it's a recommendation, I've just never worn out rear shoes, seems like an axle seal goes first and the shoes get saturated w/ gear oil.
I run Redline synthetic in the difs. I've also run Valvoline and Mobil 1 synthetic. Dino is fine too. On a truck that may have water contamination or other concerns, I'll run cheap Napa gear lube for 500 miles to flush, then switch to synthetic.
90 wt.
Cube Dweller
Moderator
isotel said:
WMS?
- Thread starter
- #7
Where could I get some cheap shoes?
Cube Dweller
Moderator
Autozone.
- Thread starter
- #10
WMS? Wheel Mounted Surface?
Cube Dweller
Moderator
Take a tape measure and measure across the drums where the wheels press against them. If it's about 55", the axle could be 79-85. If it's around 58" it's 86-95. Go to Autozone, tell them you have a 198X toyota 4x4 truck with a 4cyl(because they'll ask because their software tells them to ask) and you need brake shoes.
Honestly, (and I'm not trying to insult you) it sounds like from your posts you have very limited experience working on cars. It would be a good idea to have a knowledgeable friend help you on something as important as brakes. You'll want to make sure the wheel cylinders aren't leaking and the springs are in good condition as well as flush and bleed the lines. If you're not sure, pay a pro to do the brake job for you. It's not worth it to take the risk.
Honestly, (and I'm not trying to insult you) it sounds like from your posts you have very limited experience working on cars. It would be a good idea to have a knowledgeable friend help you on something as important as brakes. You'll want to make sure the wheel cylinders aren't leaking and the springs are in good condition as well as flush and bleed the lines. If you're not sure, pay a pro to do the brake job for you. It's not worth it to take the risk.
- Thread starter
- #12
You're right. I don't really have that much experience working on cars. However, I have good guys like yourself to help me out. I would still be driving around with no powersteering without Mud. Anyways, thanks for the info and i'm sure you'll see some more brainiac posts.
Easier, measure the distance from the inside rim to the inside rim (you do not have to pull the tires off for this) then add 7" (it is close enough) that will give a good idea of the WMS.
And yes, WMS = wheel mounting surface...
And yes, WMS = wheel mounting surface...
