The factory sender has two pins and is resistance based. The value at Full is 15 ohm and at empty is 410 ohm.
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The factory sender has two pins and is resistance based. The value at Full is 15 ohm and at empty is 410 ohm.
The easiest place to get to the main tank (US factory) fuel sender is EK1 pin 6 and 7, it's in the left kick, part of the 2nd from the bottom big plastic connector, in the top right. I don't know the voltage or current that is put on the circuit to judge the gauge sweep, but assume it is 12v, and not very much current.
What' you're looking to do is possible, and I suspect the transistor and potentiometer to control it are already built into the fuel sender. The difficulty is getting a voltage source . . . . try tapping pin 7 or 6 and see what voltage is there? The Combination Meter is putting some base voltage there to sweep the gauge.
You won't feel any real sloshing. The rear will sag if on light springs, adding both the bumper and tank. (And hanging the spare out the back)I’m seriously considering a 24g LRA. For those that have one, how many miles are you averaging with both tanks combined and has your mpg dropped with the added 144lbs of fuel weight sloshing around? Also, looking for the best rear tire swing out that doesn’t swing back in on a slight decline.
Here a picture of ek1 with pins 6 and 7 the yellow and black starting the 2nd row of the white sub connectorThanks !!
Here a picture of ek1 with pins 6 and 7 the yellow and black starting the 2nd row of the white sub connector
View attachment 2629664
I’m seriously considering a 24g LRA. For those that have one, how many miles are you averaging with both tanks combined and has your mpg dropped with the added 144lbs of fuel weight sloshing around? Also, looking for the best rear tire swing out that doesn’t swing back in on a slight decline and allow a rear camera relocation.
I have a 40 and at full, half or almost empty there is no perceptible sloshing. I used to get a little over 300 miles on the factory tank. Still get around 14-14.5 MPG so from there whether it is 12.5, 24 or 40 it's just about the math as far as range goes. I had Ed Martin do the install and I was able to drive the 600+ miles home without filling up and drive around most of the following week too before I had to get fuel. I just filled up yesterday and the last time I had to get gas was 3 1/2 weeks ago. All depends on how much you drive, but that's a big positive for me - the time between fill-ups.I’m seriously considering a 24g LRA. For those that have one, how many miles are you averaging with both tanks combined and has your mpg dropped with the added 144lbs of fuel weight sloshing around? Also, looking for the best rear tire swing out that doesn’t swing back in on a slight decline and allow a rear camera relocation.
I agree about the rear tire swing out. For daily use, it’s a bit of a pain for sure. Unfortunately, I need the cargo space and only option is tire swing out and I don’t like the idea of my spare sitting any lower. When I need to change a flat, having the tire located on a swing out will make it less of pain. Granted, I haven’t had a flat in years.Not an exact answer to your question, but I have the 12.5 gallon LRA tank. I haven't documented mileage, but I've gone from being frustrated with how often I have to fill up to it not being an issue. I consistently get 12 to 12.5 gallons in the aux tank. I got 12.75 gallons in the first time I filled it.
I once had an RLC bumper with spare swing out and hated it. Nothing necessarily against the bumper, but the act of swinging the tire each time I wanted access to the hatch or tailgate was more frustrating than the poor range with the small fuel tank. Due to how low the spare sits now, I wish I had a 24 gallon LRA tank and good solution to store the spare vertically in the left rear of the vehicle. Something like this: Interior Tire Carrier and Storage Platform - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/interior-tire-carrier-and-storage-platform.1169824/page-2#post-13065351
but I already have ARB drawers, so the spare may not fit vertically.
I am considering a 40 as well or a 24. Does the 40 get scraped often on rough terrains?I have a 40 and at full, half or almost empty there is no perceptible sloshing. I used to get a little over 300 miles on the factory tank. Still get around 14-14.5 MPG so from there whether it is 12.5, 24 or 40 it's just about the math as far as range goes. I had Ed Martin do the install and I was able to drive the 600+ miles home without filling up and drive around most of the following week too before I had to get fuel. I just filled up yesterday and the last time I had to get gas was 3 1/2 weeks ago. All depends on how much you drive, but that's a big positive for me - the time between fill-ups.
I am considering a 40 as well or a 24. Does the 40 get scraped often on rough terrains?
I am considering a 40 as well or a 24. Does the 40 get scraped often on rough terrains?
I am considering a 40 as well or a 24. Does the 40 get scraped often on rough terrains?
Do you still have your exhaust resonator? If you tore off or dented up your resonator then you want the 24, if not then the 40 is likely fine for you. The 40 and the resonator are about the same height.
I have the 40 and I have not scraped it yet, and I love the range! I'm more trail running and overlanding than rock crawling.
Can anyone recommend a shop in Colorado that can install the 12.5G unit?
Can anyone recommend a shop in Colorado that can install the 12.5G unit?
And Christo (or whoever uses the SleeOffroad account) said as recently as last week that they don't install the 12.5 gallon LRA for various reasons (potential for callbacks for noises, rubbing, etc.)Slee is an easy choice…but they are usually extremely busy/scheduled. Plan ahead…