Auxiliary battery wiring

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for the BCDC charger you don't really need more than 8. and if you have 4 awg laying around, I would definitely use that. using 4 awg will give you the ability to do a jumpstart switch. so if your main battery died you can link the 2 directly, bypassing the BCDC and you can start the car off of the secondary.
 
Don't skimp on wire gauge. Use a wire gauge calculator like one of these:
The last one may be your the best calculator since you can input the distance/length of your wire.
 
Don't skimp on wire gauge. Use a wire gauge calculator like one of these:
Couldn't agree more - particularly for long duration power use. I can *sort of* understand why Lexus used a smaller wire for the power seat motor - because it is a very short duration use case. When planning for long duration battery charge or inverter use case, you should err on the side of larger wire.
 
Couldn't agree more - particularly for long duration power use. I can *sort of* understand why Lexus used a smaller wire for the power seat motor - because it is a very short duration use case. When planning for long duration battery charge or inverter use case, you should err on the side of larger wire.
Accurate statement. That's why I am recommending using about 20 Amps with my connectors based on the factory wire size.
 
Don't skimp on wire gauge. Use a wire gauge calculator like one of these:
The last one may be your the best calculator since you can input the distance/length of your wire.
Thanks for the links. I went to all of them. They are for AC voltage, so they ask for single-phase or multi-phase. I followed your guidance and looked for DC calculators. I don't know if this is good or not, but this is the link I found at the top of google:


I used the assumptions:

- 3% V-drop tolerance (1225D accepts down to 9V, so this is well above spec)
- 16 ft (I measured 15 feet with overages for bends, angles, etc -> then added a foot)
- 30A (At LiFePo4 profile of 14.5V the output current is 25.9A)

The calculator gives me 6awg.
 
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Here's the best / simplest wire size chart I've seen for DC. Note that it says to use the "round trip" distance - but this is designed for a boat where the ground is another wire, not a big chassis like we have on these vehicles.

 
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Here's the best / simplest wire size chart I've seen for DC. Note that it says to use the "round trip" distance - but this is designed for a boat where the ground is another wire, not a big chassis like we have on these vehicles.


I am also providing a current return path via same gauge back to starter batt.

This calculator and redarc datasheet says 8AWG is good to go.

That said, if I can fit 6awg, I'll fit that in.
 
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To close out this thread, we determined there is no good alternative 12v wiring that exists in the in the rear cargo area of a 2014+ base or premium model. The Luxury model can use the 12v wiring for the 3rd row seats.

I ended up dragging 6awg wire from the starter batt through the existing firewall grommet and along the sills, after unclipping the plastic. Hopefully, the pics explain better.

I am going to setup a distribution board that, hopefully, can sit inside the cavity between the rear side plastic and the wheel well quarter panel. I am going to put it split conduit in the engine bay but leave it open in the sill channel.


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