Aux Reverse lights (1 Viewer)

[mep1811]

Has anyone wired up aux reverse lights? I'm getting a hitch mounted tire carrier that will block the reverse lights. The carrier has tabs for aux lights.

Is the stock circuit strong enough to run a couple of small LED lights by tapping into the backup light wiring? I figure with the low amperage of LED lights it could be possible with out an issue.

 

[TeCKis300]

Shouldn't be any problem at all tapping into the existing reverse lights. Could also be easier to plug or splice into the 7-pin trailer connector.

 

[mep1811]

Thanks . I pull a trailer so I'd have to find the backside of the trailer plug . I was thinking of just snaking a wire in between the lens and tap the BU light wire.

 

[Cruisin911]

I think your choice of taps is a good one for the trigger source on a relay. Even if you run small LEDs, I would pull the power from the battery, triggered by either your reverse lights or a switch somewhere. Fused, switched power is really the safest way to do this. Its your truck but it is not how I would handle it.

 

[KLF]

I have a pair of Rigid-style LED floods in my RLC rear bumper, and I was nervous about just tagging into the factory reverse light circuit. So, I actually removed the trailer harness, carefully peeled it open and spliced into the reverse circuit for the trailer, which is on a separate fuse, I think 10A. While I was there I also pulled feeds for constant hot and taillights, as I plan to use them if I ever install the swingout. I soldered everything, lots of heat shrink, then lots of tape on the loom, re-installed.

I use this reverse circuit to fire a relay that is in the right storage cavity in the ARB drawers. This is fed from a 12-circuit fuse box, connected to the second battery, so the lights are actually on their own dedicated fuse.

 

[Cruisin911]

I have a pair of Rigid-style LED floods in my RLC rear bumper, and I was nervous about just tagging into the factory reverse light circuit. So, I actually removed the trailer harness, carefully peeled it open and spliced into the reverse circuit for the trailer, which is on a separate fuse, I think 10A. While I was there I also pulled feeds for constant hot and taillights, as I plan to use them if I ever install the swingout. I soldered everything, lots of heat shrink, then lots of tape on the loom, re-installed.

I use this reverse circuit to fire a relay that is in the right storage cavity in the ARB drawers. This is fed from a 12-circuit fuse box, connected to the second battery, so the lights are actually on their own dedicated fuse.

This..... Safest and most reliable way to make it work.