Aussie long range fuel tank questions (1 Viewer)

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peesalot said:
Caping off #4( all 3) is going to depend on your gas cap. If the only vent is #3 then the cap should be of the positive locking type that blows the pressure at a certain lbs. Or you may have the stock cruiser cap that just lets air out and fuel to if you are sidehilling or twisted up. I put a filler from a late model dodge pu on ( 3 hole mount ) but the blow off spring lbs was a little to hi cause every time you opened cap it blew like a whale. So I ran 1 of the seperator lines to a cage top breather.
again I would just hook up the system with the vapor seperator and purge canister. It works great like the engineers at toyota or chevy or whom ever designed it. If you use the filler cap that vents you still have pleanty of opportunity to smell gas - which I hate especially in my garage. The way I hooked mine up I never smell gas when driving or parked.....
 
fjoakley said:
Is that the holley that had the fuel pump inside of the surge tank like an in tank pump? If so I remember that because I was going to use it but Holley discontinued that a couple of years ago. That is why I bought the BC broncos sytem which I did not use - yet.

It was some pickup units that you put on the end of a fule hose, you would put one on each side of the tank (driver & pass.) and then run them to a T-fitting and on to the motor. The way the pickup units worked they were only pull fuel, so they would close if they were in air. Neat, but I never got around to trying them.

Plumping them into the LR tank might require cutting a hole in the tank... the only access you really have is the sender unit, and thats likely not enough to get all the connections done?

Surge tank seems like an easier answer...
 
Hoping more people have this now and have installation pics. I've got mine on order and was hoping for more input and pics.
 
That's the tank I'm getting, when I get to that part in my build. How much does that thing cost to fill?
 
Does it have a flat bottom? Does it need the OEM dip in the floor for the tank? How does it mount, factory holes or do you have to fab something up? Does it use any type of spacers to keep it off the floor? I know I have to replace the floor to the rear of the tranny hump and replace with flat flooring (I have a 71 body.) I just wonder how long it will run when the tank isn't full and you are leaning to the drivers side, seems like it would be a problem.
 
Does it have a flat bottom? Does it need the OEM dip in the floor for the tank?

You do need the dip in the floor on the passenger side. The drivers side area is flat. The center of the tank is also flat... on my 1966 FJ40 that meant cutting out the little hump in the floor at the back of the tranny tunnel and welding in a flat section.

How does it mount, factory holes or do you have to fab something up?
It has flanges already welded to the sides of the tank. You just need to drill 4 holes in the floor and bolt it down.

Does it use any type of spacers to keep it off the floor?

They give you rubber strips to lay across the floor before you set the tank in.

I just wonder how long it will run when the tank isn't full and you are leaning to the drivers side, seems like it would be a problem.

I still don't have mine on the road, so I've got no info for you on this.
 
thats Badass!
I hadnt heard of those big tanks, they would be ideal for our 3 or 5 day trips.
 
Thanks for the info Scott. MAF just got them in and mine is on the way. Those motha's as though not expensive enough, cost a bit to ship. $150. Oh well, I can't wait to put that sucker in!!!!!!!!:grinpimp:
 
The directions that came with my Aussie tank don't even talk about connections and since my FJ40 didn't have a fuel tank in it when I got it, I could really use some advice here.

View attachment 82440

#1, #2, & #3 are all threaded bungs. #4 is three small tubes with no threads.

My best guess is #1 is engine supply. #2 is the return line. #3 could go to the vent line in the filler neck. Are those correct? And what should I be doing with the three small tubes labled #4? Cap them off?

For info, this tank is feeding a fuel injected CSB. (GenIII Vortec). It will have a frame mounted fuel pump and filter.

#1 Is The Return, #2 Is The Engine Feed Line. #3 Is The Ouer Flow For The Filler Neck And #4 Are Vents That Go To To The Vent Box Below The Body Filler Neck. I Put Mine In Back In Feb. And You Are Right The Directions Were Very Vague. But You Will Love Iy . I Know I Do.

I am installing one in a 1962 FST 40 that is getting a Ramjet...


Good luck!


-Steve

Steve,

Is the above true regaurding the fuel return and feed line? #1 is the Return and #2 is the feed?

Any help would be appreciated..

Thanks in advance,

Lee
 
I'm interested in info on this also as I picked one up locally and saved a ton, in fact half of what ManAFre is askin on em. I am hoping the line set up is 1 is fuel supply and 2 is fuel return. Poser, how did you set em up?
 
Steve,

Is the above true regaurding the fuel return and feed line? #1 is the Return and #2 is the feed?

Any help would be appreciated..

Thanks in advance,

Lee

I'm interested in info on this also as I picked one up locally and saved a ton, in fact half of what ManAFre is askin on em. I am hoping the line set up is 1 is fuel supply and 2 is fuel return. Poser, how did you set em up?



This is my reply to the PM that I was sent by Lee on this topic:



idus25 said:
Hi Steve,

I have seen a post where you stated that you were installing an Aussie Long Range Underseat Fuel Tank. My question is can you tell me which of the fittings on the inside by the tranny hump are which? Is the bottom the return line and top the feed line? Or vise versa?

Thanks for your help.

LR



Poser said:
If I recall correctly, the lower fitting is the out and the upper is the return.

Remove the fuel sending unit, shine a light into the opening, and you should be able to see the tube for fuel pickup and return. I am pretty sure that is how I figured it out, because there was not anything about plumbing the tank in the propaganda that came from LRA (Long Range Automotive) out of Australia.


The factory soft-top 1962 40 series that I installed that tank into, has been delivered to a customer, so I do not have it to reference at this time.



Hope this helps!


:beer:
 
I thought that the supply and return lines had to be further away from each other than the #1 and #2 lines are. Not sure, but I remember reading somewhere that they would interfere with each other if they are too close. Is there any truth to this?
 
some thoughts

#1 is the return, and #2 is the supply (on my tank at least, it seem bass akwards) the return line you can stick a heavy wire in to (the line only goes in the tank maybee 2 inches) and the supply line has a bend a couple inches back to go to the fuel sump (wire wont bend) I like the tank....works well even with the few baffels and the above mentioned problems...only issue i have had is with small metal particles (like grinding dust) that will come thru the filter (10 micron after fuel pump and 35 micron before pump, electric pump and new ss fuel lines) and plug the jets on the carb. It has been 7 months or so since I got my tank and I am still getting crap in the carb and plugged filters, not so often now. The carb poblem did not come up untill I went over a hard bump and it stirred the fuel bowl.
hope that helps
brandon
 
I'm interested in info on this also as I picked one up locally and saved a ton, in fact half of what ManAFre is askin on em. I am hoping the line set up is 1 is fuel supply and 2 is fuel return. Poser, how did you set em up?

so where did you get this locally i also would like to save a few buck's????
name and phone number??

kevin:cheers:
 

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