Aussie Locker Install (1 Viewer)

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Getting ready to install an Aussie locker on the rear of my 97. Does anybody know the gasket part #s I need to have in hand to replace the old ones during the install? Which ones do I need?


The diff and two for the axles... If you're a full floater...

A quick call to the dealer would also answer your question...

Then you can ask if they're in stock.
 
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Permatex or some equivalent was used on mine.
 
Sorry for reviving, but for us semi-float guys, do we need any gaskets aside from the third member gasket or whatever that thing is?

Awesome write-up by the way.
 
Hi All

Hey everyone new guy here, just bought a 97 LX450...great shape 72K miles, getting excited to have something to play with and work on. I'm glad I found ih8mud, so interesting to read about everyone's rig...can't wait to get mine mod'd up;) However, I have a question (probably a dumb one)...at any rate, what does an Aussie locker do for you? My LX did not come with factory lockers, is the Aussie lockers an alternative to the ARB air lockers, or is this something that only enhances the factory lockers? Hope I'm not to late to get some info...I see this thread is pretty old.

Hope everyone had a great Christmas, my gift was the LX:)
 
Yes it's an alternative to the factory or ARB lockers, though it is not selectable (on or off). It's considered an auto-locker and is always locked but is fully mechanical and uses a 'ratcheting' type motion to allow the wheels to spin independently while not accelerating or decelerating. They are actually pretty cool. I have one in the front of my Tacoma...

Read up here- Home page - Aussie Lockers - Welcome to Torq Masters Home of the Aussie Locker

I'm definitely putting one in the rear of my 80, and the install looks SOOO much easier than the front IFS Tacoma diff...
 
Aussie Locker and snow

Probably you have read some threads about Aussie Lockers' behavior on icy and snowy roads.
I'm from Northern Sweden and we have 6 month of the year ice and heavy snow on the roads.
With different feelings I installed my Aussie Locker in the rear before the first snow arrived and I'm satisfied.
I never experienced any nasty behavior of my rear Aussie Locker. The secret is not to brutaly kick down the throttle in benches.
So 80 to 100 km/h (50-62 miles/h) are no problem on ordinary Cooper STT tyres; of course there are different types of snow and ice.
For the future I plan to install a LSD in the front axle.
Thumbs up for an Aussie ocker, go for it!
Merry Christmass and happy new year
Holger
 
I know this is an older thread, but what is everyone's take on the flange gaskets? Do you have to replace them? If so, you are going to have to pull the axle out and then replace the inner axle seal as well, right? Is there a gasket sealer that would work on the flange gasket or a gasket material that would work replacing the stock gasket without having to pull the axle shafts out?
 
I pulled the axles all the way and used the opportunity to do the seals and gaskets...they aren't expensive parts and it's the perfect opportunity while everything is apart to just knock another potential issue out.
 
Good point, but did anyone just seal the flange gasket? Because it seems Hayes just pulled the axle shafts out 4-6" and put them back in when installation was complete. Just wondering.
 
Good point, but did anyone just seal the flange gasket? Because it seems Hayes just pulled the axle shafts out 4-6" and put them back in when installation was complete. Just wondering.

Do you mean Hub gasket? I am having trouble understanding which gasket you mean...When I think of flange (as it relates to rear diff), I think of the item connected to the pinion gear...
 
Yes hub gasket.
 
A few quick notes on hat I learned on my aussie locker on my 60. Setting it up within the specs defined by Aussie is important. I set mine up "loose" like wider than spec'd and it locked and unlocked kind of inconsistently. I set it up tighter than the specs and it didn't unlock very well. The third time I set it up tight, but within specs and it behaved much more predictably.

Also, a tip for the c-clip guys, the last c clip can be a bear, but if you super glue the c clip to a thin allen wrench with the "u" pointed away from the allen wrench on the tip it makes it really easy. Just let the super glue dry well and the C Clip should stay on the tip of the allen wrench no problem.
 
I know it can't be pulled over the hub/flange, I was wondering if folks re-used the old gasket by sealing it, and thus not having to pull the shafts out completely. I know it is not ideal, but it doesn't look like Hayes pulled the shafts out further than 6". So what exactly did he do in this write up?
 
I didn't replace the gasket as I had just put the buggers on only a couple months before during a rear axle rebuild. I made a point to be careful and not damage them and it wasn't an issue.

If yours haven't been touched in a while, they are probably fragile (aren't these the paper ones?) and you might as well replace.
 
True.
 
I didn't replace the gasket as I had just put the buggers on only a couple months before during a rear axle rebuild. I made a point to be careful and not damage them and it wasn't an issue.

If yours haven't been touched in a while, they are probably fragile (aren't these the paper ones?) and you might as well replace.

^^^That^^^

I guess I may be missing something....the only difference between pulling them out 5 inches and pulling them out completely, is the distance....there are no complications whatsoever from removing them completely. They are simple to put back in.
 
How simple is it to pull the inner axle seals? I guess I need to man up and do it right. Marker, chalk, or tape could easily make re-inserting the axle correctly a simple job. The inner axle seals just seem like a pain. I've never pulled them before. Thanks for the knowledge fellas. A leaking rear hub because of being lazy is not what I want...
 

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