Aussie Locker Install (5 Viewers)

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Great write-up.

Where do you obtain the side gear thrust washers (Toyota or aftermarket?) and are they available in different thicknesses?

Is it normal to have to replace the thrust washers? If they need replacing,does this mean having to order and wait for shipping or are they readily available?

Thanks,

Bruce
 
I've run an Aussie Locker in my 97 for some time now and am very happy with it. I am running 4.88 gears with very big and heavy Michelin 38.5" tires. For those that will be doing an install in the future, make sure the tollerances specified by Aussie are followed closely.
 
Great info, I didn't know they were available for the 80's. Where did you get yours and how much was it?
Rusty
 
EDIT: Didn't realize how old this thread is:doh:

The SGTWs (Side Gear Thrust Washer) can be obtained from your local Toyota dealer(or Dan). Yes they come in various different thicknesses. You can search on this I believe there's a list some where. I didn't have to replace mine although I had gotten a new pair. It all depends on the wear and tear of those washers and/or the housing. Usually they are OK. Bottom line is: you need to achieve the tolerances specified in the Aussie manual. If they are off in any way, you want to calculate the difference and get the right washers accordingly.

Hope that helps :cheers:
 
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just got my aussie locker installed :) Thanks for the HOW TO Hayes, you made the install very user friendly compaired to the factory docs.
 
Tossed mine in today as well. It really was not that difficult at all and kind of a fun project. I would say it's a :banana: .5 job. :hillbilly:

i was just at the bottom end of the acceptable specs using the original thrust washers. :steer:

Couple of tips for anyone getting ready to do this on a 95' 80 series:

1. put the cam gear on the ring gear side first. It's easier when you have space to work around the ring gear.

2. if you are near to or out of spec just slightly, clean the grease off the parts and put them back together. THen you will most likely be in spec.

3. Torque specs are -6 nuts holding the cone washers on the axle hub are 25 ft/lbs.
10 pinion bolts -- 54 ft/lbs.
pinion shaft pin in the diff -- 20 ft/lbs.


4. If you have an earlier year 80 series that is a semi-float, you have a c-clip rear end and the process is completely different.
aussie locker install 003 (Medium).jpg
aussie locker install 004 (Medium).jpg
aussie locker install 006 (Medium).jpg
 
Same process on a '91 80?

Is this the same process as what I would have with a '91? Or is there a difference with the earlier version?
 
earlier versions have the C-clip axle. It is different. First thing is you access the gears from a cover on the rear of the diff (the full floater axle you take the entire third member out from the front).

It is different but not difficult.
 
differences on a 1991?

So I would not have to take the third out.

Do you still have to pull the axle stubs out?
 
Does the "earlier" models mean anything earlier than a '95, or earlier meaning before the '93? I have a '94.

Thank you for excellent write and pics. Im much more of visual person. I want to install one, but need to make sure all my "ducks" are in row and get the proper space/tools/parts before tearing apart.
 
yes, you will have to pull the axle stubs out

it's really not bad. The tricky part is getting everything lined up to slide the c-clips back on the end of the axles. That was the hardest part.
 
retrofive said:
Does the "earlier" models mean anything earlier than a '95, or earlier meaning before the '93? I have a '94.

Thank you for excellent write and pics. Im much more of visual person. I want to install one, but need to make sure all my "ducks" are in row and get the proper space/tools/parts before tearing apart.
Click to expand...

By earlier model he means rear drums which will be the semi-float axle with c-clips. Some 93 & 94's came like this. If you have a semi-float you will also have an inspection plate on the backside of your rear axle. That is what you will remove to install your Aussie Locker.
 
just did my 60 this Saturday and removing c clips is easy...and I pulled axles out completely and installed new axle seals while I was at it since the others were a bit used and old.

Installed c clip on long side normally...but when on short side you have to get everything back in expecpt pin....and push short axle in until you can see the clip slot...then carefully insert C clip in the gap and hopefully it will fall into place pointing downward so you can get it seated...then pull sharply on axle to seat it in the new parts and install your pin.

Took us a couple tries to get the c clip in.....LOL But all was good and it works great.
 
I have a 94 with a semi-float rear.
Did my lock right awhile back and it is really straight forward.
The last c-clip was a pain but not to bad.
Make sure you use small amounts of grease to hold things together when installing it makes things easier.
Make sure you do measure the gaps noted in the instructions to insure you are within range so that your locker will work properly and not have any issues down the road.
It really is not hard at all, took me a little over an hour.
 
Getting ready to install an Aussie locker on the rear of my 97. Does anybody know the gasket part #s I need to have in hand to replace the old ones during the install? Which ones do I need?
 
latinoguy said:
Getting ready to install an Aussie locker on the rear of my 97. Does anybody know the gasket part #s I need to have in hand to replace the old ones during the install? Which ones do I need?
Click to expand...

The part number is easy to remember: "Permatex" -- that is, if you are referring to the differential cover.

Not one single leak.
 
Hayes said:
No diff cover on FF rears. Dropout third. Don't know the part number. Call Dan.
Click to expand...

Ooh, you're right - I wasn't paying attention. This would be the gasket between the third and the housing that I was referring to. :eek:

Edit: Even still, I used Permatex for this application.
 
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