Atmospheric river interior

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@Kernal here’s a few more pics.

There’s a rip in the bottom of that seal, but it’s on the bottom and opposite where the tailgate carpet is getting wet.

How about the separation of the window trim piece with the blade in pic? They all look like that. Tight near the frame. Floppy in the middle. Runs are ok.

Also. Forgot, I redid all the door vapor barriers last year too.

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That molding does look bowed outward.

If the vapor barriers are intact then water shouldn't get inside the cabin no matter how much gets into the door assuming the drain holes are draining. I once drove around with the door card/panel off with just the vapor barrier during a rainstorm and was surprised how much water flows through the door and out the bottom.

That tear at the bottom of the weather strip around the rear body opening/door shouldn't be the cause of water getting into the cargo area, unless your vehicle is in three feet of water.

FWIW at some point once things dry out you might want to pull that gasket off to look for rust. I pulled mine off with the plan to just clean things up and found a dozen rust spots around the lip/pinch weld that strip attaches to. A few of those areas were significant and required a bit of prep work to remove the rust, prime, and paint. Worst was under the lower lip on the body at the same level as the lower edge of the tailgate.

There's a hidden seam below the weatherstrip you can' t see until the rubber is removed . Actually you can't even see it then, you can just feel it and have to take photos to "see" it. That seam is prone to rusting so all the rust has to be cleaned out, by hand, blindly, then apply something to kill the rust in the micro-pits, then prime, then apply new seam sealer, then paint, all done blindly while taking dozens of photos to see what you're doing (IME, unless you remove the tailgate and bumper, which I didn't do).

FWIW
 
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No rust. Checked when I pulled the headliner out last year when I was chasing the sunroof leak, and fixing the drain lines. (Knock on wood).

You do make me think I should check my work on the vapor barriers though. Possible I left a hole in there around a door handle or something.
 
Have you looked at your roof rack and the bolts. They might be trusted out and water is getting in through that way.
 
I Have you looked at your roof rack and the bolts. They might be trusted out and water is getting in through that way.
I am one of the lucky ones with no port installed junk on the roof.

Ok. After this mornings rain. Had a puddle form in the passenger foot well again. Driver side was dry. So weird.

So, I’ve taped up my windshield on the outside. We’ll see what happens in tomorrow’s rain storm.

Tailgate, same result as yesterday. Might try to isolate that drip tomorrow too.

Moody shot from this morning.

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SoCal, I had this weird thing happen. Rained for a week, then had a sunny(ish) day. I go into the truck for something, and notice a gallon water jug is wet. Must be leaking, right? I take it out. Then I find another one. Same deal. (I had the back full of these things because of my recently-resolved radiator problem.) Now I'm suspicious, so I take it out and squeeze it. No leak--but it's soaking wet. As are all the others. I mean, really wet. Had to dry off the spots where they were sitting. Now, these things have been cycled in and out of there for months and this never happened. Of course, it didn't rain much during that time. So what's the deal here? Something to do with humidity and vapor barriers? Because it's really kind of bizarre...
 
Condensation? Interior already damp from leaks…it all warms up during the day, then night of a cold front drops the temp, water jugs retain the heat longer, and the damp air condenses on the jug?

Dunno. I’m semi convinced, while I’m at work, my kids are pouring water into the floorboards for not getting them a PS5.
 
Ok. Today.
Passenger footwell dry.
Driver puddle.
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Feels like a result. Just not sure why how it got through tape on one side but not the other.

Not raining so I removed the tape on the driver side a pillar. Have a sprinkler running on it and found this.

Lower corner of the windshield was also soaked this am. But not with sprinkler running.

Gonna have the windshield pulled out on Monday.
 
Now. There’s a puddle. In the windshield corner.
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Had the same leak location (behind dash and kick panels) from a poorly sealed windshield x 2 by Safe Lite. Then took it to a independent glass shop who pulled the windshield first then I drove the vehicle few miles to a body shop (set up in advance) to have the rust around and in the opening fixed, then drove it back to the glass shop a couple days later to have the windshield reattached/resealed by the FSM method using the correct adhesive-sealant and a new OEM gasket.
 
@Kernal what is the
Had the same leak location (behind dash and kick panels) from a poorly sealed windshield x 2 by Safe Lite. Then took it to a independent glass shop who pulled the windshield first then I drove the vehicle few miles to a body shop (set up in advance) to have the rust around and in the opening fixed, then drove it back to the glass shop a couple days later to have the windshield reattached/resealed by the FSM method using the correct adhesive-sealant and a new OEM gasket.
Yep. I’m on the hunt for sika flex 256hv and primer. Ordering a gasket.
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You have an actual paper manual?
Xmas present from my wife a few years ago. It’s a reprint, but it’s all there!!
 
The product to use is an ADHESIVE-SEALANT that is designed/approved for attaching an auto windshield, doesn't have to be the exact Sikaflex product in the FSM which may not be available anymore.

The 3M products are commonly used in the US.


Start reading at page #28;


If you want to use a SIKAFLEX product I'd call their tech/customer service number for advice:


Are you planning to do this job yourself??
 
I was considering it. I’d done one before on a diff car. But. I called my glass installer (independent guy that followed the FSM). It’s still cover by their warranty. So if they determine it’s the windshield and not the sunroof, I’m covered. 😎

I now have the windshield tarped. It’s pouring, again. Will see what it looks like in a few hours.
 
My windshield had leaks not only on the body to gasket side, but was also leaking on the windshield to gasket side in the lower corners most likely due to a old shrinking gasket.

I taped off nice even channels about 1/4" on each side of the gasket around the entire windshield and applied 3m marine grade sealant as my own "gasket" and leaks have stopped. (Did this to sunroof too)

At least until I want to dump cash into a new windshield replacement.
 
@Halfpint lol. I hear ya. I have 3 tubes of 3M 5200 in the garage from another project. I was pretty dang close to sealing everything up…forever. That is the stuff of the gods. Seen it hold up for a decade or more in harsh underwater, salty and sunny environments and out last fittings, delam fiberglass decks when trying to pry something off. Basically “5200 don’t care” PITA to remove without the right exotic solvent, which I can’t remember.

Confessions: I had to remount an outboard on my last boat, and used 5200 for the transom bolts, the yard didn’t have 4200 in stock and I was impatient (4200 is the “removable” variety) I wrote with a paint pen “sorry” with an arrow, next to the bolt. Sold that boat 2 years ago. Hopefully, the new owner won’t find that or have to deal with it for a few more years.
 
You don't want to use any sealant you may have laying around as it doesn't have the strength required to hold the glass in place in case of an accident. And it's not just to keep the glass in place (partly, so flying bricks don't hit you in the head) but when auto manufacturers do crash and rollever testing they figure the strength of the windshield into the equation. You want to use a specific ADHESIVE SEALANT that is designed for Automotive windshields.

Safest to follow the FSM and the instructions for the windshield approved products. First attach the rubber gasket to the glass then the gasket to the body, along with a "primer" to help adhesion (if required by the manufacurer).
 
Crap. It’s cancer.

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